Hauling my hunter out for the first time

[bigrock]

hello people.
well next month i will be hauling my hunter legend 37.5 out of the water for the first time. this is all new to me so i need some advise. please help
some questions i have is what type of anti foul paint would one recommend?
what about zincs do they need replacing?
should i replace thru hauls&
Any other information would be great.
how long out of the water will i need to get things done?
how many days of sunshine do i need to let paint cure?
thanks people and sail safe

 

[capejt]

Well, let's see.
Bottom paint is a loaded question. Personally I prefer the top quality (and top dollar stuff) because it works so well. However, I tend to leave the boat in for several years at a time. If you're going to be hauling every year anyway, you can get away with the "cheaper" stuff without a problem. As for curing time, not a big deal. I've seen boats go in with wet paint and it works fine.
Zincs- Generally replace them if they are rotted, but then again, they're not that expensive so it becomes one of those "why not?" propositions.
Thruhulls- if they're not leaking and operate normally, no need to bother. Just take the opportunity to lube them up good so they'll continue to function well. While not really a complicated procedure to replace them (on paper at least) they can sometme be quite a chore to change.
As for time required.... if you have nice sunny days to work with you should be able to accomplish your tasks in two or three days (probably less).

 

[bigrock]

Well, let's see.
Bottom paint is a loaded question. Personally I prefer the top quality (and top dollar stuff) because it works so well. However, I tend to leave the boat in for several years at a time. If you're going to be hauling every year anyway, you can get away with the "cheaper" stuff without a problem. As for curing time, not a big deal. I've seen boats go in with wet paint and it works fine.
Zincs- Generally replace them if they are rotted, but then again, they're not that expensive so it becomes one of those "why not?" propositions.
Thruhulls- if they're not leaking and operate normally, no need to bother. Just take the opportunity to lube them up good so they'll continue to function well. While not really a complicated procedure to replace them (on paper at least) they can sometme be quite a chore to change.
As for time required.... if you have nice sunny days to work with you should be able to accomplish your tasks in two or three days (probably less).

thanks for the reply to my post. could you recommend what tools and cleaners i will need so i can be prepared? thanks again

 

[Scott]

Regarding thru-hulls. If they are gate valves I would replace them with ball valves. Too many gate valves are known to have failed - particularly very old ones.

 

[Guest]

37.5

I've been very satisfied with the WM brand ablative anti-fouling paint, which I buy on sale. In 2004, the last time I did the bottom, I installed three coats and it is now due for a redo. After pressure washing the bottom I scrape off any loose stuff, feather the edges, followed by a light hand sand of the entire hull. I use an articulating painter's pad on a pole with dry wall type sanding paper.

The best paint roller is the 3/4 inch dense foam on a long handle. Our boat takes about two gallons for three coats. I use the same sand paper to clean the prop and prop shaft. I slather on two heavy coats of Desitin ointment on the prop and shaft to prevent marine growth. Two zincs on the shaft seems last about ten months.

As long as the through hulls still operate, no need to replace. The hull takes about a day to dry out before sanding. A day to sand and a day to paint. Plan on four days minimum unless you find other issues. The ablative paint dries fast, usually an hour between re-coats.

A small utility knife works well in cleaning the speed impeller, followed by a thin application of Desitin ointment. Use this same knife to lightly scrape any debris from all the through hull openings. They sometimes have a buildup of old paint or marine life.

Check the rudder for excessive play; one eight inch play side to side movement is within tolerance.

Terry Cox

 

[bigrock]

I've been very satisfied with the WM brand ablative anti-fouling paint, which I buy on sale. In 2004, the last time I did the bottom, I installed three coats and it is now due for a redo. After pressure washing the bottom I scrape off any loose stuff, feather the edges, followed by a light hand sand of the entire hull. I use an articulating painter's pad on a pole with dry wall type sanding paper.

The best paint roller is the 3/4 inch dense foam on a long handle. Our boat takes about two gallons for three coats. I use the same sand paper to clean the prop and prop shaft. I slather on two heavy coats of Desitin ointment on the prop and shaft to prevent marine growth. Two zincs on the shaft seems last about ten months.

As long as the through hulls still operate, no need to replace. The hull takes about a day to dry out before sanding. A day to sand and a day to paint. Plan on four days minimum unless you find other issues. The ablative paint dries fast, usually an hour between re-coats.

A small utility knife works well in cleaning the speed impeller, followed by a thin application of Desitin ointment. Use this same knife to lightly scrape any debris from all the through hull openings. They sometimes have a buildup of old paint or marine life.

Check the rudder for excessive play; one eight inch play side to side movement is within tolerance.

Terry Cox

great advice thanks i would like to get away with every two years for a haul out so i will for sure check the reviews on the antifouling paint you use.

thanks again

 

[jtm]

I'd replace the gates valves- on my 28.5 '85 I was afraid to open them ( they are potty supply valves) for fear of the valve "stem" breaking - while on the hard, upon removal one did break and the smaller one didn't. I put on the bronze throwball valve from WM- don't risk "cheap" with some unknown bronze content in the ones from Harbor Freght. Cheak your cutlass bearing for wear- do a search here - you'll find info about it. Also checkthe bolts in the cutlass sheg - where it bolts into the hull- 2 or 4 in my boat had significant galvanic action which was compromising the bolt while one had a tell tale leak- the other didn't(leak) but was close to shot but not apparent until removal.

Check your rudder packing box and keep the rudder covered from direct sunlight if you are out of the water for an extended time.

check your "mating" area of keel to hull , you may want to polish up the iron keel with rust inhibitor or Por-15. Check that you keel bolts are snug and no water penetration.

In the brackish water of Barnegat Bay NJ I use CSC with biolux and get about 2 years on it. It took me 1.6 gallons to do 2 coats (with extra (3rd) layer at waterline.

 

[Guest]

37.5

The 37.5 has a lead keel.

Terry Cox