Hauling Anchor in Strong Conditions when Single-Handing

Chris & Lenore · May 15, 2016

I use a wireless remote and like it. Purchased a relatively inexpensive unit from Amazon. Came with three waterproof transmitters. I worried about interference/false signals but have not experienced any "unwanted" windlass actions. The windlass is only powered for a few minutes anyway - it's never live when not in use. I have a helm switch as backup if the remote failed. My reason for doing this was cost and ease of installation over foot switches and more wiring headache.

Gunni · May 15, 2016

When I installed my latest windlass, a Lewmar H3, I noticed that it had an easy remote controller circuit, either hard wire or wireless. It would be an easy install. Yet I have never felt the need for a helm or wireless control. I have a cabled controller at the locker. The anchor retrieval is sort of dance where you control the boat and bring it to the anchor, pop it out of the bottom and get the boat headed in the right direction. Final recover may take me 20 minutes as a wash down and stow my anchor. My autopilot DOES have a wireless remote.

I do favor anchoring for conditions at the time of my departure, so I will snug into a protected cove where windage is not much of an issue it it looks like that will be best.

Franklin · May 15, 2016

I cruised for 3.5 years without a windless and only got wore out lifting the chain in Cartagena, Colombia in the 45' deep water. Once I decided I was crossing the South Pacific I knew I had to get one due to the 70'+ anchorages. I installed a new Lewmar with remote. So far I have hardly used the remote but rarely do I pick up the anchor with the wind blowing more than 10 knots in the anchorage. When I have used it, it was great to motor forward and operate the windlass from the cockpit. It can be done with another switch there and my windlass came with that switch, but I have yet to install it due to having the remote. Less wires to have to deal with.

In the past, I used to motor up a little then run up and pull the chain in quickly by hand, then repeat process. Worked in windy conditions but the more the wind, the more times I had to do it.

Now that I have the new windlass, I love it. I find myself picking up my anchor and improving my anchor spot a lot more...aka...anchoring isn't nearly as difficult these days. I also installed a wash down hose up there too and love that.

As a previous poster said, and it works in light to med winds, pull up the slack in the chain and wash down while doing so, then stop and let the chain weight pull the boat forward and repeat. This is the reason why I find myself not using the remote much as a single handler but it's good to know I got it when I need it.

Note: the remote has a delay, so the windlass will run about a second or two longer than you pushing the button so be careful.

capta · May 15, 2016

Kings Gambit said:
Of course, if the windlass failed for some reason then a wireless remote would not be useful at all. If this item did fail, how deep the s--t would I be in? Sort it out that way--but of course, that would be all situational.

I know our windlass has a manual back up, and I believe most electric ones do. I doubt I'd have one that didn't, on my foredeck.

Gunni · May 15, 2016

A pair of gloves and a proper stance and I can easily retrieve 150' of 3/8" BBB and a 66# Manson. Give it a try for those 0-dark thirty drills.

woodster · May 15, 2016

Gunni said:
A pair of gloves and a proper stance and I can easily retrieve 150' of 3/8" BBB and a 66# Manson. Give it a try for those 0-dark thirty drills.

Gunni that will work for some if they are 280lbs and 6'4" tall and 55 years old but for us old codgers that are 5' 8"185 lbs and 70 years old that will never do my friend

Bill Roosa · May 15, 2016

had to do this a bunch of times till I realized I did not need (or really want to) park "out in the open" Correct choice of anchorage prevents 95% of this. I had the first mate motor ahead while I use those arm and hand signals to direct which way she should steer. We found out after several successful weighs that having a point on shore to aim at as the bow goes through the "motor dead ahead" point GREATLY reduced the amount of hand signaling needed. As we motor ahead I hauled the rode till we where directly over the anchor and then I secured the rode (watching the fingers so they don't get caught!!!!!). The boat's momentum breaks free the anchor and you can tell by the line tension being released. Then just "haul away Joe" till the anchor is on deck. Easy peasy lemon squeezey.
You do have to prefect the change over from hauling to securing the line given the short time provided to do it. Keeping an eye on the rode's angle of entry into the water is key to anticipating anchor breakout. In many cases the anchor was not dug in that deeply an it broke free as the rode approached vertical and no securing of the rode was needed.
for the record I'm 54 and 6' tall so your mileage may very.
Now if someone can show me how to raise the main without the electric winch...... almost killed me!!

Gunni · May 16, 2016

Yes. However I pick my anchorage location very carefully when single handing. I snug into the windward shore and let the land and tree line reduce the wind at water level to less than half what I am seeing at the masthead. Once I get the boat moving it typically just glides toward the anchor and I am simply lifting chain off the bottom, maybe 40# of load. Keep your knees bent, lean back and use your weight to bring it aboard. If I want some help I will drop the engine into slow-ahead and steer the boat from the bow with my auto-pilot wireless remote. Maybe done that 3 times.

And Woody, my pappy was still sweating chain and splitting firewood at the age of 80, you can do it!