Got a few questions concerning '81 H30/w yanmar 2gm I'm getting ready to haul out for the first time. I don't know the last time the boat was hauled. I've owned the boat a year. The reason she's coming out is I suspect a bad cutless bearing,(thumping). I plan on repacking the stuffing box and re-doing the bottom (paint) and check the rudder and thru hull fittings. Is there anything else I should be prepared to deal with? Also I guess I should beprepared to fix blisters. I havn't done that before. Can anyone give me idiot proof instructions for glass work on the bottom. Tools, supplies time ect... Lastly I've planned for 5 days out, for all this work, be that enuff? In Hawaii Dan S/V Illusions
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Check your valves
1. If you have gate valves, it is an excellent time to change them. 2. Think about a dripless stuff box. 3. Be sure to check the keel attachment too.
1. If you have gate valves, it is an excellent time to change them. 2. Think about a dripless stuff box. 3. Be sure to check the keel attachment too.
Here's a couple items
1. Prior to the haulout locate your speed transducer (paddle wheel) and the point where the propeller shaft exits the hull. The yard will need to know this to place the slings. If the paddle wheel is placed against a sling it could get damaged. 2. Take pictures of the boat out of the water. In particular, get a good prfile shots of the preferred forward and aft sling locations so you can show them to the travel lift operator next year when the boat is hauled. 3. Thumping sound: Additional possibilities are (1) missing zinc half [will probably disappear as soon as the second half is thrown], (2) bent prop shaft caused from prop hitting a chunk of flotsam. 4. If you do any of the work yourself I'd recommend some "Liquid Glove" or equal. This is a hand cream that you put on before starting work. The cream dries readily and when your hands get dirty they'll wash up much easier and the dirt and copper paint won't get ground down into the skin as easy. 5. Have fun and if your wife or significant other helps be prepared to pamper her for best results.
1. Prior to the haulout locate your speed transducer (paddle wheel) and the point where the propeller shaft exits the hull. The yard will need to know this to place the slings. If the paddle wheel is placed against a sling it could get damaged. 2. Take pictures of the boat out of the water. In particular, get a good prfile shots of the preferred forward and aft sling locations so you can show them to the travel lift operator next year when the boat is hauled. 3. Thumping sound: Additional possibilities are (1) missing zinc half [will probably disappear as soon as the second half is thrown], (2) bent prop shaft caused from prop hitting a chunk of flotsam. 4. If you do any of the work yourself I'd recommend some "Liquid Glove" or equal. This is a hand cream that you put on before starting work. The cream dries readily and when your hands get dirty they'll wash up much easier and the dirt and copper paint won't get ground down into the skin as easy. 5. Have fun and if your wife or significant other helps be prepared to pamper her for best results.
bottum job
dan...i recently pulled my boat for some bottum work....86 28.5..has been in the water for the past ten years...i had some mild blistering....had bottum stripped 1000...blisters opened and fared...300...3 coats of epoxy water shield to prevent future blisters and then 4 coats of micron ablative paint...600...the catch is that the boat has to sit out of the water for a couple of months to dry out...the have moisture meters to determine when the fiberglass is dry...was well worth the efforts..all that built upand chipping paint is gone and the bottum is so smooth...sails so much better..and with the ablative paint there is little prep work next time it needs paint...only other things i could add to your list is wax hull...check or replace through the hulls...depth sounder transducer is it working well........anyway have fun...schaefer on l i sound n y
dan...i recently pulled my boat for some bottum work....86 28.5..has been in the water for the past ten years...i had some mild blistering....had bottum stripped 1000...blisters opened and fared...300...3 coats of epoxy water shield to prevent future blisters and then 4 coats of micron ablative paint...600...the catch is that the boat has to sit out of the water for a couple of months to dry out...the have moisture meters to determine when the fiberglass is dry...was well worth the efforts..all that built upand chipping paint is gone and the bottum is so smooth...sails so much better..and with the ablative paint there is little prep work next time it needs paint...only other things i could add to your list is wax hull...check or replace through the hulls...depth sounder transducer is it working well........anyway have fun...schaefer on l i sound n y
Haulout Chore List
If you are planning to do ALL the work yourself, 5 days may be cutting it close. If a yard is doing all the work, they will probably do it all the last two days (typical.) Blisters: To reduce costs and TONS OF TIME, you might consider fixing only the blisters that have water in them. After power-washing, let air dry, then press on each blister. (Mark it with a marker of some kind.) If water exits the blister when pressed, it definitely needs repair. On an '81, I bet you have lots of blisters. (My 85 had 3-4 per sq. ft.; just had bottom done in September.) The next time you haul out, other blisters will need repair. After 4-6 years of doing this you will have them all repaired. Up to you, but just a time and money saver. Idiot-proof instructions? To my knowledge they don't exist for bottom work; I refuse to do any bottom glass repair myself. If the boat sinks, I'd rather blame it on someone else.
Just replaced my cutlass bearing too. Be aware that if your prop is even the slightest bit bent, warped, or unbalanced, the new cutlass bearing will not last more than a few months; I'd have the prop checked as well. Painting: If you do the painting yourself, be sure you have a lift scheduled for no more than 24-36 hours after painting. You want to be back in the water before the paint gets very hard and brittle. The anti-fouling properties work better and the paint lasts longer. For bottom preparation, you might read up on just how much of the old bottom you need to sand off. There are a lot of theories on that one depending on the purpose of your boat (casual cruiser, racing, etc.) As previously mentioned by Steve, definitely ckeck the keel attachment. I don't remember if the 30 has iron or lead keel, but if it's iron, be prepared to scrape, grind, or chisel massive rust (and/or barnacles) off the keel. If you do have an iron keel, I also recommend a coat of epoxy (with no air bubbles) over the keel EXCEPT FOR THE BOTTOM EDGE. (Need bottom clear for proper ground plane.) You need to make sure the entire keel is perfectly clean before applying the epoxy though. The epoxy will significantly reduce rust and growth and the paint sticks to it fine. Tools: Air powered orbital sander is a must. An electric will work but you might actually wear it out before you got the entire bottom finished. In summary: by the time you buy all the tools, materials, and parts then do all of the work yourself, you will have invested more than what a normal bottom job will cost. (Where I live anyway.) I definitely recommend having a yard do the bottom job unless you are really looking for the satisfaction of a job well-done. Besides, if the EPA is very "active" in your area, you need to make sure the bottom job site is an EPA approved facility. This requires a specific drain where all the dust, etc. from the preparation and completion of the bottom job can be filtered and the water reused from a specially designed tank. Most 30-footers would be done outdoors unless you plan on derigging the mast during the maintenance. No EPA paint pad, no bottom job. Be careful, the fine in my area is $10,000 plus 30 days community "EPA" service. The rest of the maintenance (thru-hulls, etc.) can be done by yourself while the yard is doing the bottom job. If you do this, I also recommend washing the upper deck off after they have sanded the bottom. The paint dust gets everywhere and you'll spend weeks cleaning rubbed-in paint dust off the deck and the cabin sole if you don't spray it off right away. (I learned this the very hard way.) Good Luck! Jay Hill
If you are planning to do ALL the work yourself, 5 days may be cutting it close. If a yard is doing all the work, they will probably do it all the last two days (typical.) Blisters: To reduce costs and TONS OF TIME, you might consider fixing only the blisters that have water in them. After power-washing, let air dry, then press on each blister. (Mark it with a marker of some kind.) If water exits the blister when pressed, it definitely needs repair. On an '81, I bet you have lots of blisters. (My 85 had 3-4 per sq. ft.; just had bottom done in September.) The next time you haul out, other blisters will need repair. After 4-6 years of doing this you will have them all repaired. Up to you, but just a time and money saver. Idiot-proof instructions? To my knowledge they don't exist for bottom work; I refuse to do any bottom glass repair myself. If the boat sinks, I'd rather blame it on someone else.
Just replaced my cutlass bearing too. Be aware that if your prop is even the slightest bit bent, warped, or unbalanced, the new cutlass bearing will not last more than a few months; I'd have the prop checked as well. Painting: If you do the painting yourself, be sure you have a lift scheduled for no more than 24-36 hours after painting. You want to be back in the water before the paint gets very hard and brittle. The anti-fouling properties work better and the paint lasts longer. For bottom preparation, you might read up on just how much of the old bottom you need to sand off. There are a lot of theories on that one depending on the purpose of your boat (casual cruiser, racing, etc.) As previously mentioned by Steve, definitely ckeck the keel attachment. I don't remember if the 30 has iron or lead keel, but if it's iron, be prepared to scrape, grind, or chisel massive rust (and/or barnacles) off the keel. If you do have an iron keel, I also recommend a coat of epoxy (with no air bubbles) over the keel EXCEPT FOR THE BOTTOM EDGE. (Need bottom clear for proper ground plane.) You need to make sure the entire keel is perfectly clean before applying the epoxy though. The epoxy will significantly reduce rust and growth and the paint sticks to it fine. Tools: Air powered orbital sander is a must. An electric will work but you might actually wear it out before you got the entire bottom finished. In summary: by the time you buy all the tools, materials, and parts then do all of the work yourself, you will have invested more than what a normal bottom job will cost. (Where I live anyway.) I definitely recommend having a yard do the bottom job unless you are really looking for the satisfaction of a job well-done. Besides, if the EPA is very "active" in your area, you need to make sure the bottom job site is an EPA approved facility. This requires a specific drain where all the dust, etc. from the preparation and completion of the bottom job can be filtered and the water reused from a specially designed tank. Most 30-footers would be done outdoors unless you plan on derigging the mast during the maintenance. No EPA paint pad, no bottom job. Be careful, the fine in my area is $10,000 plus 30 days community "EPA" service. The rest of the maintenance (thru-hulls, etc.) can be done by yourself while the yard is doing the bottom job. If you do this, I also recommend washing the upper deck off after they have sanded the bottom. The paint dust gets everywhere and you'll spend weeks cleaning rubbed-in paint dust off the deck and the cabin sole if you don't spray it off right away. (I learned this the very hard way.) Good Luck! Jay HillRe: 2. Think about a dripless stuff box.
Think but do not buy without yard advice, most dripless units require a very, very good condition shaft to achieve a proper seal. Teflon packing of the stuffing box may be the best choice if the shaft is 19 years old.
Think but do not buy without yard advice, most dripless units require a very, very good condition shaft to achieve a proper seal. Teflon packing of the stuffing box may be the best choice if the shaft is 19 years old.
Start a maintenance log
It's a very good idea to keep a maintenance log where there is information about what chemicals were used - bottom paint, epoxies, sealants, etc. Often there are problems down the road with pealing bottom paint, etc., and the owner always wants to know why the failure. Sometimes it's compatability problems, other times it is something else. Anyway, a good maintenance record can really help.
It's a very good idea to keep a maintenance log where there is information about what chemicals were used - bottom paint, epoxies, sealants, etc. Often there are problems down the road with pealing bottom paint, etc., and the owner always wants to know why the failure. Sometimes it's compatability problems, other times it is something else. Anyway, a good maintenance record can really help.
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