Hello, all again. During my haul out next week, replacing the broken prop with a new Campbell Sailer 3 blade, inspecting bottom painting, removing rudder, etc., I also need to replace a thru hull from the galley sink. Since that location could also be used for one of Isotherm's SP frig condenser, Model 3251 ASU SP with holding plate, I would like to know what you guys think. There was a glowing review of this model online, from a couple aboard a Dana, after 3 years of use in the med. Also any other ideas for the haul out I should do since this boat has not been hauled for about a decade. Thanks...Guy
Haul out and Refer ideas.
- Thread starter yuginot
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The Isotherm is a great idea.
As for time out of the water I can think of way too many things. There is the paint of course. Maybe the bootstripe. How are your transducers for depth and log? Several of us have replaced the 1/2" thru-hulls with 3/4" for the engine water and head. This so we can use real seacocks. Now you can check the strut, cutless bearing, and stern tube. Excellent chance to change the bearing since you will have the rudder out.
As for time out of the water I can think of way too many things. There is the paint of course. Maybe the bootstripe. How are your transducers for depth and log? Several of us have replaced the 1/2" thru-hulls with 3/4" for the engine water and head. This so we can use real seacocks. Now you can check the strut, cutless bearing, and stern tube. Excellent chance to change the bearing since you will have the rudder out.
All the original gate valves should be replaced if they haven't been already. Ed,
a little surprised that you couldn't find a 1/2" thruhull. Mine are still 1/2" with marelon seacocks. One weak spot on my boat was the thruhull in the head for the sink drain. This is above the waterline while the boat is level. Mine was fractured by a strap on the travel lift, and failed sailing back from Mexico. We could not find the source of the water and ended up bailing several hundred gallons of water each hour for three days after all three of my pumps failed. I ended up replacing the plastic fitting with a bronze one. One other thing to do is tighten keel bolts. If you use a four to one multiplier, you will be amazed at how much you can tignten them. They don't loosen, but they were not really torqued down at the factory.
a little surprised that you couldn't find a 1/2" thruhull. Mine are still 1/2" with marelon seacocks. One weak spot on my boat was the thruhull in the head for the sink drain. This is above the waterline while the boat is level. Mine was fractured by a strap on the travel lift, and failed sailing back from Mexico. We could not find the source of the water and ended up bailing several hundred gallons of water each hour for three days after all three of my pumps failed. I ended up replacing the plastic fitting with a bronze one. One other thing to do is tighten keel bolts. If you use a four to one multiplier, you will be amazed at how much you can tignten them. They don't loosen, but they were not really torqued down at the factory.
Torgue the keel bolts, capital idea. I often check them but now would be a good time to put the big lever on them while she is on the cradle. Not a fan of Marelon, wanted good bronze seacocks. One installed at engine water thru-hull and one in a box on the boat for the head inlet. Still using the original gate valve for the galley sink.
What else can we pile on "yuginot"? I used a T-valve off of the engine seacock for my A/C so you really don't need a new hole for that.
What else can we pile on "yuginot"? I used a T-valve off of the engine seacock for my A/C so you really don't need a new hole for that.
What force should be used to torque the bolts on the 37C? Has anyone looked up the foot/pounds or newton/metres?
One our members posted these numbers as coming from a call to Hunter:
1/2" bolts with 3/4 nut 45 ft lbs
5/8" bolts 5/16 nut 97 ft lbs
3/4" bolts 1 1/8 nut 132 ft
1" bolts 1 1/2 nut 325 ft lbs
1/2" bolts with 3/4 nut 45 ft lbs
5/8" bolts 5/16 nut 97 ft lbs
3/4" bolts 1 1/8 nut 132 ft
1" bolts 1 1/2 nut 325 ft lbs
Yuginot, definitely go with the Isotherm! I installed the system (I forgot which model) on my previous boat, an '81 H33. If you check the "Boat Info" tab at the top of the forum, and then the Hunter Owner Modifications, you'll see pics of my installation. I did exactly what you're contemplating which is pull the existing galley sink thru-hull and install the Isotherm thru-hull in it's place. I'm not familiar with the 37s but you'll see I put my compressor in the port settee just forward of the reefer box. The only modification to the box, per se, was that I cut a thick piece of insulation and affixed it to the underside of the existing wood lid and added a hinge. The Isotherm compressor (Danfoss 30 in my case) is extremely stingy in terms of power draw.
Just to give you an idea, I had an 80W solar panel mounted on my dingy davits. With a 400 amp hour house bank (a pair of L-16 6V batteries) I turned the refrigeration on in June when I installed it and didn't shut it down 'till September. Understanding that I usually only got to the the boat on weekends the only time I found the batteries down close to the 50% level was after a week of solid cloud cover and rain. Otherwise, everytime the launch would drop us at the boat (we're on a mooring) I knew there'd be a few cold ones ready to drink!
An extremely efficient and economical refrigeration system.
Just to give you an idea, I had an 80W solar panel mounted on my dingy davits. With a 400 amp hour house bank (a pair of L-16 6V batteries) I turned the refrigeration on in June when I installed it and didn't shut it down 'till September. Understanding that I usually only got to the the boat on weekends the only time I found the batteries down close to the 50% level was after a week of solid cloud cover and rain. Otherwise, everytime the launch would drop us at the boat (we're on a mooring) I knew there'd be a few cold ones ready to drink!
An extremely efficient and economical refrigeration system.
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