I am replacing the foward hatch on my H31 with a Hood stainless steel model. My question is what type of sealent/bedding to use, hatchtape or something like sikaflex or 3M4200? The hatchtape looks easy but does it seal as good and how long will it last? Thanks in advance for your help. Eddie Blue Heron
- Status
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
4200 - 5200 roger right
I agree with Roger, hatches have caused vessels to meet Davy Jones more than once before. If putting together something that you do NOT want coming apart (worry about taking it apart when that day come...if ever) and not to leak, thru-hull fittings, mast compression posts, Sheer deck to hull, hatches, housings, and ANY permanent fixture use 4200 (quick dry) or 5200 permanent sealent. I used it in betwixt my mast partner/wedges, then ended up having to pull the darn mast twice after that.Yes, it was tough to get the 5200 out, drilling, pulling with channel-locks like taffy, but happy to do so. Each time I put 5200 back in, gobs of it! I was happy that the partners had NOT wiggled free like what happened on the passage to Hawaii (no sealent in the partners) when I nearly lost one mast. I know many are squeemish on this 5200 thing, but you folks stay in safe harbors, and live in a perfect world.Picture yourself in a full-fledged STORM with a huge sea a runnin?If you hadn't sealed with the very best, I Guarantee you that you would be regretting it!
I agree with Roger, hatches have caused vessels to meet Davy Jones more than once before. If putting together something that you do NOT want coming apart (worry about taking it apart when that day come...if ever) and not to leak, thru-hull fittings, mast compression posts, Sheer deck to hull, hatches, housings, and ANY permanent fixture use 4200 (quick dry) or 5200 permanent sealent. I used it in betwixt my mast partner/wedges, then ended up having to pull the darn mast twice after that.Yes, it was tough to get the 5200 out, drilling, pulling with channel-locks like taffy, but happy to do so. Each time I put 5200 back in, gobs of it! I was happy that the partners had NOT wiggled free like what happened on the passage to Hawaii (no sealent in the partners) when I nearly lost one mast. I know many are squeemish on this 5200 thing, but you folks stay in safe harbors, and live in a perfect world.Picture yourself in a full-fledged STORM with a huge sea a runnin?If you hadn't sealed with the very best, I Guarantee you that you would be regretting it!
Really, don't use 5200!
Life Caulk, Sikaflex, 4200 or any product that is made to take apart and will work with SS & Fiberglass. Stay away from silicone. Look around there was a table of which products where best for each application. I know that your hatch was never caulked with 5200 and I doubt that is why you are replacing it. If your frame cracked? Why are you replacing the entire hatch? Bomar has replacment glass your those hatches too.
Life Caulk, Sikaflex, 4200 or any product that is made to take apart and will work with SS & Fiberglass. Stay away from silicone. Look around there was a table of which products where best for each application. I know that your hatch was never caulked with 5200 and I doubt that is why you are replacing it. If your frame cracked? Why are you replacing the entire hatch? Bomar has replacment glass your those hatches too.
One doesn't rely on caulk to hold port in place
I think its would be a huge mistake to expect opening hatches to be held in place on caulk/bedding alone. There are at least a dozen screws that do that. I have never heard of the type of caulk having anything to do with a hatch being knocked out by a wave. Side portlights and windows are different, but opening hatches sit on a lip and are screwed in place. Any failure I have ever heard is usually the actual Hatch breaking. I think 5200 would not be the best caulk to use for this application. These opening hatches, even very nice ones like the hood stainless steel ones like this would eventually have to be replaced or recaulked due to leaks or such. If you had 5200 it would be a bear if and when you need to recaulk for leaks or replace the hatch (not undoable - just a bear). Sooner or later you will probably have to do some maintence. I am not a fan of hatchtape, it will not fill the inevitable gaps that occur on a boat. I have used LIFESEAL and have been very happy with it for these applications. Its part Polysulfide (Like a 4200/5200) for good adhesion properties and part Marine Silicone for good application and flexibilty. I recaulked many of my hatches 5-6 years ago that leaked alot (They had Hatch tape) and they have been leak free since. I really think that its the best of both worlds (Adhesion, ease of use, flexibility. Like I said the screws and lip on the opening for the hatches are what hold this opening ports in place, not the caulk. The force from a 1 ton breaking wave on an opening hatch is going to break the hatch or the fiberglass lip holding the hatch, not the caulk.
I think its would be a huge mistake to expect opening hatches to be held in place on caulk/bedding alone. There are at least a dozen screws that do that. I have never heard of the type of caulk having anything to do with a hatch being knocked out by a wave. Side portlights and windows are different, but opening hatches sit on a lip and are screwed in place. Any failure I have ever heard is usually the actual Hatch breaking. I think 5200 would not be the best caulk to use for this application. These opening hatches, even very nice ones like the hood stainless steel ones like this would eventually have to be replaced or recaulked due to leaks or such. If you had 5200 it would be a bear if and when you need to recaulk for leaks or replace the hatch (not undoable - just a bear). Sooner or later you will probably have to do some maintence. I am not a fan of hatchtape, it will not fill the inevitable gaps that occur on a boat. I have used LIFESEAL and have been very happy with it for these applications. Its part Polysulfide (Like a 4200/5200) for good adhesion properties and part Marine Silicone for good application and flexibilty. I recaulked many of my hatches 5-6 years ago that leaked alot (They had Hatch tape) and they have been leak free since. I really think that its the best of both worlds (Adhesion, ease of use, flexibility. Like I said the screws and lip on the opening for the hatches are what hold this opening ports in place, not the caulk. The force from a 1 ton breaking wave on an opening hatch is going to break the hatch or the fiberglass lip holding the hatch, not the caulk.
Why hatch replacement - Steve
Steve The frame is cracked at the hinge. I have repaired it using at stainless steel clamp and it lasted almost ten years. It is now to the point that the top just will not seal. I looked everywhere for a used hatch but was unable to locate one. I found this Hood at about half the price of the Bomar. Thanks to all that reponded. Eddie
Steve The frame is cracked at the hinge. I have repaired it using at stainless steel clamp and it lasted almost ten years. It is now to the point that the top just will not seal. I looked everywhere for a used hatch but was unable to locate one. I found this Hood at about half the price of the Bomar. Thanks to all that reponded. Eddie
Steve The frame is cracked at the hinge. I have repaired it using a stainless steel clamp and it lasted almost ten years. It is now to the point that the top just will not seal. I looked everywhere for a used hatch but was unable to locate one. I found this Hood at about half the price of the Bomar. Thanks to all that reponded. Eddie
- Status