Hatch Replacement - 2004 Hunter 31 - lots of questions and help needed

Sep 27, 2008
194
Hunter 41 Longport,NJ
After three "professional repairs" for leaking decided to fix it myself - this is the bomar hatch just forward of the mast, marked 200 229323. Sent a note to try to find replacement and replacement parts to this site

Here are the questions
boat Hatch 3.jpg


a) Picture 2 - the interior liner is so separated from the hole - anything I can should do about that or just caulk the heck out of it. Picture 3 shows close up
b) Picture 3 - look in the far left corner - the deck where the frame meets up is wildly uneven, looks like some idiot to a dremel or power tool to it. Shoudl I try to get some gelcoat or resin (or even fiberglass putty and try to level out those low spots/indents) to try to create a better seal ? or as above, just caulk the heck out of it ?
c) What caulk do you use ? 4000 or 4200 ?
d) Finally Picture 1 - looks like some type of split, maybe even weld on the aluminum frame ? Its so precise, wonder if it was there originally as part of the design. Get a new frame if I can find it, get a welder, or just caulk the heck out of it ?

And yes - I cleaned off all that old caulk with acetone....
Suggestions much appreciated on even finding the replacement hatch

boat hatch 2.jpg
boat hatch 1.jpg
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Ideas.

1717518660881.png
The hatch maker says you need a firm, flat surface to attach the hatch to the deck. The areas circled in red need to look more like the one circled in green. You may need to add epoxy to the red areas to get a smooth, flat surface with the proper dimensions.

I do not know the Bomar hatch. Some hatches attach to a flat surface, and others have an interior lip that sits inside the deck. You must attach the hatch to the deck with something more than caulk. The hatch you removed looks to have been screwed into the deck. Those screw holes should be filled with epoxy and sealed. Be sure to seal with caulk any new screw holes you make. Otherwise you will get water into the deck core.
 
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Sep 11, 2011
405
Hunter 41AC Bayfield WI, Lake Superior
If you have not found a hatch contact Bomar directly. I have found them easy to work with in the past.
 
Sep 27, 2008
194
Hunter 41 Longport,NJ
Thanks - for sure the hatch will be caulked to the deck and then screwed in - I really appreciate the advise on the flat surface - that was my concern - I'll build it up level with some epoxy What caulk to you guys recommend ? I did find a hatch - got the part number from Bomar is is very helpful and found the same one on ebay - new with a few scratches on the aluminum frame
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Caulk... Everyone has their favorite... I like 4200. It is secure and yet remains flexible. It also allows you to remove the hatch in the future should it be necessary.
 
Sep 27, 2008
194
Hunter 41 Longport,NJ
Hi all - judging from the pictures, woudl you recommend I build that surface up using gelcoat or resin ?
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Epoxy resin would be my choice. Then a coat of gelcoat to protect the resin. Once surface is smooth and level, set the hatch in place bedded by you caulk of choice. Since you have good fasteners holding the hatch you could use Bed-it butyl tape as your caulking material.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,277
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I'd use epoxy with some thickening agent, probably the stronger type for structural strength as opposed to the softer stuff for fairing. I use the West System, if you do I'd recommend getting the measuring pumps. Much easier and less messy than trying to pour into measuring cups. I don't think I'd bother with gelcoat on top unless some is really visible.
 
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