Has anyone varnished their oiled 9.2 interior?

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Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
More winter projects- I'm considering polyurethane on all the oiled wood but first will clean with oxyclean. I tried oxyclean on one panel that had stains and it cleaned up very well.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I haven't done it or thought about doing it, but I did see one 9.2A where it had been done and I thought it looked very nice. Were I you I'd be sure to wipe all the surfaces down with a solvent, like mineral spirits, to remove any residual oil or wax before putting on finish. The oxyclean may do it, but I would be conservative or at least try the inside of a cabinet or the back of a door first, to make sure. Plenty of ventilation and appropriate personal protection if you are going with solvent based poly. Your lungs, liver and kidneys' will thank you.
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Well I looked at my marina neighbor's 33 pearson with peeling and chipped varnish. I think I'll just clean mine, oil and wax it.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I have waxed dark oak floors in my house. Bruce makes the products that I use (Bruce Dark n Rich). They hold up well, but without a commercial buffer I find that it is easier to deal with them if I thin the wax with mineral spirits. I can then apply it with a spray bottle and buffing is easier. The trade off is that when I apply it thicker I get a much nicer shine. The shine probably rivals what you can get with poly, but man was it a work out for my cheapo floor buffer, even with a stiff set of brushes on it. I don't know if I would go that aggressive with a grained surface.

Have you thought about using some of the polymeric floor waxes? Wax, of course, is a misnomer, but if I didn't have wax on my floors already I would consider that route. You will probably get twice the shine for a tenth of the effort and the wear on vertical surfaces would be negligible compared to a floor. Bruce makes an acrylic product called One Step. It is important to clean the wax off, much like if you poly, otherwise you could get a dull finish.

Was the Pearson chipping on the inside or the outside? Outside is common, but the inside would be pretty surprising, unless something else was going on.
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Pearson was chipping on the inside from some water leaks. I was thinking of some kind of floor wax. I'll check out the polymeric finish.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
It shouldn't be too much of a problem, but water on wax can leave a white stain. We have to be careful of standing water on the floor, such as a spill. Let me know how it works out no matter what you try please. I may try myself.

Bob
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Well I'm definitley going to polyurethane my floor. It looks like 3/4 teak and holly plywood. I think I'll just use some oil and or wax finish on the rest of the teak.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Take care if you need to do any sanding. My teak and holly is badly stained in the galley area and the veneer is delaminating. I glued it back down, but it is paper thin. I assume that one of the previous owners sanded it too much, but perhaps it was quite thin to start. Also, the staining appears to be from water that tends to collect to the starboard of the engine and then move forward under the sink cabinet to rest on the floor. I plan to look into whether there is a way to deflect that water into the bilge...it may be coming in from under the water muffler...it collects in front of the water intake through hull. I may make a small linoleum floor in the galley and refinish the rest...problem is that the delaminated area is actually a little beyond the galley in front of the starboard settee so it will look a little odd. Its either that, replace the whole floor or try to scab in some laminate...the later won't work well or look good...there are some patches in that area already so I have solid evidence to go by.
 
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