Great Rudder
I purchased it for my H260 last winter and used it this sailing season. With regards to the sailing performance of the H260 I did not notice and significant difference. The 260 went just as fast and turned just a quickly, even though the new rudder was a full 8 inches shorter then the stock rudder. The real improvment is that the new rudder is almost "boyancy neutral". By this I mean that when the rudder is lowered from its upright position, it floats on the surface of the water. This had surprised me cause when I got the rudder it was as heavy as a stone. But, I guess, because it is a petroleum based product and because "oil" is lighter then water, it still floats. BUT - to haul this rudder into its downward/sailing position requires the effort of only one (1) finger. After three years on this site reading all the "Rube Goldberg" inventions for hauling the rudder down, including a trailer winch mounted on the rudder post (I think the picture must still be in the archives) this new rudder is such a blessing. I guess this is not a big problem for those of us who sail deep water. But for those who sail the shalows, like me, where you can knock your rudder up 3 or 4 times a day, this it is a big improvement. When I first got my H260 I was shown how to push on the stock rudder with your foot, to get it bobing in the water, and give it one good kick and then to haul it down and cleet it off. This was OK but, with the rudder cleeted off, when you hit bottom the internal halyards would snap. Next I learned to never cleet off the rudder but to use the compression plates on the rudder post. This was OK but when you just touched the bottom the rudder would pop up and all helm was lost. With the new IDA Sailor rudder, I have tied a bungee cord to the top of the halyard inside the rudder post. With very little effort I am able to submerge the rudder into its sailing position by pulling on the bungee cord. When the rudder is submerged I put tension on the bungee cord and wrap it around the stainless steel railing above the rudder post. The system works great. When the rudder hits bottom its pulled back to its position by the bungee cord. The only modification I needed to make on the H260 was to move the block on the internal halyard, in the rudder post, down by about 6 inches from the end of the halyard and to put a knot (bowline) in the end of the halyard to attach the bungee, nothing else has changed and therefore, if the bungee ever breaks, I still have the original halyard to use to haul and keep the rudder down. Regards, Bob Fliegel
