Harken Mark IV installation

[Scott T-Bird]

I'm planning on installing a Mark IV Unit 0 for our boat this winter. I was under the impression that it could be installed without removing the headstay, but after reviewing the installation guidelines it appears that it is possible only if you can access the head of the mast. I am looking at the foil which looks like it is locked in place at the head of the stay. Then all the foil sections are linked in place in a manner which suggests that either the mast has to be on the ground to lay it out, or you have to be able to use a lift to access the entire headstay while the mast is standing.

Then, I am looking at the toggle assembly which looks like it adds 2-5/8" to the overall length of the headstay (3/8" clevis pin). I replaced the headstay 5 seasons ago and it has had light use in fresh water so I'm unwilling to replace the headstay. I have a standard t-toggle assembly with a standard chainplate with a single tang. The instructions say that the headstay may require cutting and shortening (which I would like to avoid). They say something about alternatively replacing the lower turnbuckle t-stud with a stud/eye, but I fail to see how that changes anything unless you can eliminate the original toggle somehow (I'm not seeing how that is accomplished).

In any case, does the addition 2-5/8" affect rake very dramatically? Honestly, I haven't measured rake since I originally installed the new headstay. I think I set it for 6" rake. I assume that there may have been some stretch. I have about 2" total that I can take up in the turnbuckle with the thread of the studs.

 

[Joe]

Cutting the headstay is a pretty common requirement for the Harken product. After cutting it, install a Norseman or Stalock eye to mate with the toggle. I don't think you'd be happy with 3 inches of additional rake.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Did you already buy the unit? If not, I would recommend that you look at the Alado roller furler. You don't need to cut the head stay for that unit. Search the forum, there has been several reviews posted on the Alado unit.

 

[All U Get]

I'm planning on installing a Mark IV Unit 0 for our boat this winter. I was under the impression that it could be installed without removing the headstay, but after reviewing the installation guidelines it appears that it is possible only if you can access the head of the mast. I am looking at the foil which looks like it is locked in place at the head of the stay. Then all the foil sections are linked in place in a manner which suggests that either the mast has to be on the ground to lay it out, or you have to be able to use a lift to access the entire headstay while the mast is standing.

Then, I am looking at the toggle assembly which looks like it adds 2-5/8" to the overall length of the headstay (3/8" clevis pin). I replaced the headstay 5 seasons ago and it has had light use in fresh water so I'm unwilling to replace the headstay. I have a standard t-toggle assembly with a standard chainplate with a single tang. The instructions say that the headstay may require cutting and shortening (which I would like to avoid). They say something about alternatively replacing the lower turnbuckle t-stud with a stud/eye, but I fail to see how that changes anything unless you can eliminate the original toggle somehow (I'm not seeing how that is accomplished).

In any case, does the addition 2-5/8" affect rake very dramatically? Honestly, I haven't measured rake since I originally installed the new headstay. I think I set it for 6" rake. I assume that there may have been some stretch. I have about 2" total that I can take up in the turnbuckle with the thread of the studs.

Hi Scott,
I have a Harken Mark II which may be the same set-up so I went out back and took these pictures of the masthead. This is on a Catalina 30, I don't know how the PO did the install but it has always worked well. I added the crane for a spinaker and then added a shackle at the base to provide an anchor point for the tack. The reflective tape on the mast helps finding the boat at night. Hope this helps.
All U Get

 

[Maine Sail]

I'm planning on installing a Mark IV Unit 0 for our boat this winter. I was under the impression that it could be installed without removing the headstay, but after reviewing the installation guidelines it appears that it is possible only if you can access the head of the mast. I am looking at the foil which looks like it is locked in place at the head of the stay. Then all the foil sections are linked in place in a manner which suggests that either the mast has to be on the ground to lay it out, or you have to be able to use a lift to access the entire headstay while the mast is standing.

Then, I am looking at the toggle assembly which looks like it adds 2-5/8" to the overall length of the headstay (3/8" clevis pin). I replaced the headstay 5 seasons ago and it has had light use in fresh water so I'm unwilling to replace the headstay. I have a standard t-toggle assembly with a standard chainplate with a single tang. The instructions say that the headstay may require cutting and shortening (which I would like to avoid). They say something about alternatively replacing the lower turnbuckle t-stud with a stud/eye, but I fail to see how that changes anything unless you can eliminate the original toggle somehow (I'm not seeing how that is accomplished).

In any case, does the addition 2-5/8" affect rake very dramatically? Honestly, I haven't measured rake since I originally installed the new headstay. I think I set it for 6" rake. I assume that there may have been some stretch. I have about 2" total that I can take up in the turnbuckle with the thread of the studs.

Measure very, very carefully then cut it and do this... These are an easy but tedious install..

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I agonized over the geometry equations enough to come to the conclusion that by adding as little as 2 inches in headstay length can produce approximately 6 inches rake ... wow ... I wish I did some detailed measurements while the boat was floating level. On the stands, the waterline isn't level so it would be impossible to measure rake while she is on dry land.

However, I think it will be a safe bet to shorten the stay to accomodate the new toggle and therefore have room for adjustment within the turnbuckle. I'll use a Norseman or Stalock as suggested.

I think I will need to take the mast down to do this job unless the yard will let me hire a lift ... not likely.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Cutting the stay ...

it looks like if I cut the stay at the shoulder of the existing stud (at top) I should be ok by replacing with a Norseman long stud. The difference will be about the same as the new toggle.

 

[tommays]

I like the fact that my Pro-furl fits over the hardware without cutting up anything

It also seems to work well out in the real world

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Profurl R250 ... Hmmmmm ... that's not a bad thought. I generally consider Harken a higher quality product. But they seem to be very similar (in features and quality). It doesn't appear that I would have to modify the stay, and the price seems slightly lower (probably depending upon where either one can be obtained), especially since the Harken toggle and the new terminal would be sold separately and with significant additional cost ... not a bad thought at all.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Scott, there's another good reason for ProFurl, and why I chose our LCI32. You do not need a halyard restrainer, which will cost $$ to either put on with your stick up or to take it down. Read the ProFurl literature: there's this unique what I call "Darth Vader" top swivel fitting that eliminates the need for the restrainer. PF is also "maintenance free" and has been for me since like maybe 2003 or maybe earlier.

You need to order the long link plates to get it up off the deck like in the picture. Measure your jib luff first if you go this way.

 

[All U Get]

Hi Scott,
Got some pictures of the Profurl, too. Like Stu said the top doesn't swivel but has to be set with a screw. Mine was 180 degrees off this summer and I noticed it about the time I wanted to ease the halyard. Anyway, here's the pictures.
All U Get

 

[Dave Groshong]

Call us for unbeatable pricing on Harken furlers, we can only publish MAP pricing. If you're not racing, the Harken Cruising Furler Unit 1 is a great deal, I have one here in the office for a song.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I hope you gave me my Cruising 1 for that same song Dave!

You know I haven't even seen that new furler yet. You shipped it to my marina. They stored it and I never asked to see it. Be installing it(horizontally) come April.

 

[Dave Groshong]

Of course ED! You did get a deal too! About half the price of a ProFurl, I like it better, and you will love it ED, it was my favorite of all the furlers I've owned

 

[Scott T-Bird]

NICE!! I sent a pm ...

 

[Ed Schenck]

I guess all the consternation about the install is due to the question of a Mark IV? With my new Harken Cruising 1 there is no requirement for a Sta-Lok or a Norseman. The forestay just has a stud on the bottom end. The turnbuckle will fit inside the drum. Something called a "Long Link Plate w/Toggle" completes the bottom end. All of those pieces/parts were much less costly(from SBO) than any other that I priced. But I also had to buy a forestay since my old furler was a solid rod.
http://www.harken.com/pdf/4414.pdf