I have a Hunter 336 and I am having a tough time raising the main. I prefer not to install a power winch because it will protrude too far into either the Head or the aft cabin. Any solutions?
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Battslides
They transformed my boat so that you can even raise the main going downwind! However, you have to keep them clean and replace balls now and again.My balls are getting sticky with grit (!) after having the boat unattended for a long time. Thanks Jim W
They transformed my boat so that you can even raise the main going downwind! However, you have to keep them clean and replace balls now and again.My balls are getting sticky with grit (!) after having the boat unattended for a long time. Thanks Jim W
We experienced similar problems until we realized that some wax goes a long way. We apply a small amount of wax to the bat-cars and the bottom 4 feet of the mast rack once every 3 months. We use Pledge, by Johnson Wax. We clean the mast track once a year in the spring by running a small sponge soaked with a cleaning solvent and pulled up and down by the halyard and retrieving line. The difference is amazing.
Hard Time Raising the Main
Purchase a can of Sailkote and spray the slugs or slides and as much of the track as you can reach. That would be the quickest and easiest approach to try first. I just installed a full-batten main which was very stiff. After a couple of applications of Sailkote it goes up and down fairly easy.
Purchase a can of Sailkote and spray the slugs or slides and as much of the track as you can reach. That would be the quickest and easiest approach to try first. I just installed a full-batten main which was very stiff. After a couple of applications of Sailkote it goes up and down fairly easy.
Rigid Vang
We have a 340 which has the same rig as yours, and we had the same problem getting that main up. We learned a few lessons last year; (1) make certain the reef line clutches are open and the reef lines running freely, (2) use McLube Sailcote on the lugs about every third time out, and (3) make sure you are absolutely dead straight into the wind and loosen the mainsheet a bit before raising, both to minimize any pressure on the luff and the lugs. This year we replaced our standard soft vang with a Garhauer rigid vang, and that has made all of the difference in the world! Just before raising we let the rigid vang raise the boom about as much as it can. This takes ALL pressure off of the luff and lugs. The main goes right up; we barely have to use the winch at all. After the sail is up we tighten the vang back to get sail shape. When we are ready to drop sail, we again allow the vang to lift the boom, and the sail drops right down. The rigid vang has made just a huge difference for us! Good luck. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
We have a 340 which has the same rig as yours, and we had the same problem getting that main up. We learned a few lessons last year; (1) make certain the reef line clutches are open and the reef lines running freely, (2) use McLube Sailcote on the lugs about every third time out, and (3) make sure you are absolutely dead straight into the wind and loosen the mainsheet a bit before raising, both to minimize any pressure on the luff and the lugs. This year we replaced our standard soft vang with a Garhauer rigid vang, and that has made all of the difference in the world! Just before raising we let the rigid vang raise the boom about as much as it can. This takes ALL pressure off of the luff and lugs. The main goes right up; we barely have to use the winch at all. After the sail is up we tighten the vang back to get sail shape. When we are ready to drop sail, we again allow the vang to lift the boom, and the sail drops right down. The rigid vang has made just a huge difference for us! Good luck. Carl and Jule s/v 'Syzygy'
Great Suggestions and Another
Try all the others first. What some people have done is to employ an old solution. Go to a 2X halyard rig. Dead end the halyard at the mast crane. Put a block at the mainsail headboard and go from there to the sheave. Will reduce your effort by at least a third. Should have all-rope halyard to do it, tho. By the way, I notice many of the new Hunters no longer have full-batten mains. Wonder if this issue had something to do with it? Rick D.
Try all the others first. What some people have done is to employ an old solution. Go to a 2X halyard rig. Dead end the halyard at the mast crane. Put a block at the mainsail headboard and go from there to the sheave. Will reduce your effort by at least a third. Should have all-rope halyard to do it, tho. By the way, I notice many of the new Hunters no longer have full-batten mains. Wonder if this issue had something to do with it? Rick D.
The K.I.S.S. Principle
You may want to look into installing a Tides Marine "Strong Track" System. It is a continous length of UHMW(Hi density) plastic track that is machined to fit into your existing mast groove. It is very easy to install, and the cost is far lower than some of the other systems available. The system comes with the track, all necessary luff slides and batten fittings. The luff slides are all stainless steel. This sytem virtually eliminates any friction of the sail going up or down. The cost is $25. per foot of luff, so with a 40 foot luff, the system would cost $1000. A sailmaker would need to convert your luff to the tides hardware, but that should only run about $125-$200. Ask your local sailmaker about the system, he might even cut you a deal. Once installed, you don't have to do anything, except perhaps a fresh water hose down once and awhile. It truly is a simple no maintenance system.
You may want to look into installing a Tides Marine "Strong Track" System. It is a continous length of UHMW(Hi density) plastic track that is machined to fit into your existing mast groove. It is very easy to install, and the cost is far lower than some of the other systems available. The system comes with the track, all necessary luff slides and batten fittings. The luff slides are all stainless steel. This sytem virtually eliminates any friction of the sail going up or down. The cost is $25. per foot of luff, so with a 40 foot luff, the system would cost $1000. A sailmaker would need to convert your luff to the tides hardware, but that should only run about $125-$200. Ask your local sailmaker about the system, he might even cut you a deal. Once installed, you don't have to do anything, except perhaps a fresh water hose down once and awhile. It truly is a simple no maintenance system.
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