Hard Aground in Long Island Sound. Help!!!

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Apr 21, 2009
7
Pearson 26 Brooklyn
Hello all,

Last week I took my 1978 Pearson 26 on my first real cruise since I picked her up in the fall. Near the close of day 3 of the trip we were motoring at full speed (6 or 7 knots) through calm water when we struck an uncharted reef, and HARD! The boat practically pitch poled, digging its bow into the water. I immediately expected that we would be taking on water and stuck on the reef. To my immediate relief I found that the boat was dry and that we were still floating freely. We regained our composure and motored slowly ahead to our anchorage.

I inspected the inside of the hull for stress cracks or spider cracks, especially to the aft of the keel plate. Nothing. I inspected and tapped the keel bolts. Solid. I kept a close eye on my bilge water. Steady. Everything seems normal. While under sail I took another look at the keel plate from the inside. I could see it flexing ever so slightly when the boat heeled, but it didn't seem loose or anything. I think that is probably normal. Through the water I can see a deep scrape on the front and side of the keel, near the bottom. It's still too cold to get in there with a snorkel and mask for a better look at the hull/keel seam.
My question, then, is the following: Is it possible I ran so hard aground at such a speed without any significant damage to the hull or keel? The keel is cast iron and those old pearsons are overbuilt. The keel bolts are not corroded and I would rather not replace them if it's not necessary. When I think about how we pitched forward on impact, it seems like we may have slid over top of the reef. Since the impact was straight on, it's hard to imagine the bolts getting cracked by it.

Even so, it goes against my instincts to think that everything is just ok. It was a violent crash that nearly stopped us dead in the water. It has been a week now and my head is full with scenarios of hidden damage. What can or should I do to make sure my keel is still strong and safe? Should I pay fora haul-out just to inspect it, or can I assume that since it's not taking on water that it's still solid below the waterline? When I do eventually haul her out for the winter, assuming the hull/keel seam looks ok, will it be necessary to do any major work on it as a precaution?

I appreciate all your opinions on the subect. I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to my keel and I'm very eager to find some peace of mind. And, of course, I have already learned some important lessons on my own. :redface:

Thanks,
Jack
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
The venerable P26 is strong (yet flexible) indeed but there are other areas that should be viewed after a hard grounding. When at next haul-out, or even going over the side soon, check for hull surface cracks radiating from the aft of keel - where the aft of the keel joins the hull. Internally you can view under the portside storage locker that is 'just under' the companionway - also check the small bulkhead for loosened tabbing; unfortunately, you can visualize the starboard side from the inside because the ice-box will be in the way.
Rarely will a old Pearson not survive a very hard grounding; but, do look at the hull area at the aft end of the keel to be 'sure'. The Pearson brothers really knew how to lay up fiberglass - you sail a Pearson until it sinks.
:)
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
What Rich H said +

What Rich H. said. The only other thing I will add is that the P-26 uses a plywood cored keel stub. If you hit that hard it is quite possible you now have a very small leak into this core that you may not be seeing up top.. Once this core gets saturated you will loose considerable strength in your keel stub. The top and bottom fiberglass skins of this lay up are quite thin and the plywood is the majority of the thickness..

At the very least I would haul it and inspect it or have a competent surveyor give it the once over....
 
Apr 21, 2009
7
Pearson 26 Brooklyn
Thanks for the quick responses, guys. It is indeed nice to know I'm actually sailing a rather nimble tank that will surivive most hard groundings.

About the keel stub, is there some way to ascertain if the plywood is damaged or soaking up water without hauling it out? And if I do haul it, don't I have to drop the keel to see if it is intact, or can I just look for a gap between the hull and keel? Most importantly, if I find that it is letting water in, is it enough to fare it and seal it up that way or will I need structural repairs at that point?

I take it that the integrity of the bolts themselves is not my biggest concern then? But if there is a leak above the keel, would tightening or replacing them do the trick?

Thanks a lot,

Jack
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,052
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Good advice - take it a step at a time

You're not gonna even start to learn what happened until you haul the boat. If there are cracks anywhere you're not gonna see them until you're in the slings. If it was my boat, I'd haul and inspect. You could even do just a lunch time sling to check. If there are no visible cracks between the hull and the keel joint, then you seem to be fine. If there are you need to take it the next step, but you won't know until you get there, will you? Not worth worrying about the worst case until you know, but at least you now know what the worst case COULD be. It may not be. Good luck, glad everyone is safe and sound.

I figure you've got the new reef now charted in your paper and all other nav aids.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Be Safe

Be safe and not sorry be fore it gets worst and at least do a short haul to look under her and check and see if any damage and if need be let an expert look her over.
I would have trouble sleeping at night about it getting worse a month or two down the road and cost $$$$$$$ to repair the damage that could have been less.
I would think a short haul out of the water in the slings and if every thing looks OK back in and sail her all summer and than recheck her during winter haul out on the hard.
Nick
 
Nov 8, 2007
1,593
Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio
Lot's of good advice so far

The only comment I'd add is that stress cracking in fiberglass is cumulative. That is, your keel strike may have added to the effects of an earlier one, and the next strike will make it worse.

Hauling and inspecting for cracks is the right solution.
 
Apr 21, 2009
7
Pearson 26 Brooklyn
I agree with the idea of taking things one step at a time, but I also feel I should brace myself for the worst so I'm not a nervous wreck.

If I see stress cracks, what are the possible remedies? Can they be reinforced by glassing over them or is that permament structural damage I have to live with?

If I see a minor space in the hull/keel joint, will I have to rebed the keel or is faring over it an option?

All your posts have been really helpful. I hope I can return the favor someday.
 
Apr 21, 2009
7
Pearson 26 Brooklyn
Oh yes, and the reef I hit was absent from the chart book I had for Long Island Sound, published by the now defunct West Marine Publishing company. The reef was clearly marked on another chart book I looked at after the fact. I'll never hit that reef again, nor will I rely on only one chart at a time.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Mask and Snorkel

I had a Catalina 25 and had a similar learning experience about 25 years ago. The impact caused a crack in the hull immediately aft of the keel. No internal leakage but the laminate was severely damaged. I also had a C&C34 docked next to me and the owner started chartering his boat bareboat. Someone smashed it up on the Watch Hill reef, but in this case the crack in the hull went into the bilge and massive repairs were required. I also saw a guy once buy a hurricane damaged Nonsuch 36 with a hole in the side big enough to walk through. He bought a half a hull from Nonsuch and proceeded to join the good half with the new half and then refit the entire interior and motor. Quite a project.

I think you should get a wet suit and jump in and see if the hull is cracked behind the keel. I'm not talking spider cracks, I mean a crack you can stick your finger in. This is typical on a fin keel hard grounding of the magnitude described. On the Catalina I ground out all the damaged laminate and relaminated glass and west epoxy into the area. Never had any problem after so I don't think the damage was too severe. The repair if any will be dependent on the extent of the damage so a haul is probably in order, but you might want to do the finger test first.
 
Feb 4, 2005
524
Catalina C-30 Mattituck, NY
Capt Jack - Where was the reef in proximity to LI / CT? I think I read a recent article (over the past yr) somewhere in one of the sailing pubs. The outcome was not as benign as yours.

- Rob
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Do a websearch for "pearson 26" ... as this boat has a strong owner following.

One of the better sites is probably http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/buying.htm .... but there are many others. These sites address the keel problems, the infamous P26 aluminum rudder shaft problem, loose rudder bearings, etc. etc. etc. with LOTS of information, support, etc.

Hope this helps.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,052
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Holy cow, how can that be?

Oh yes, and the reef I hit was absent from the chart book I had for Long Island Sound, published by the now defunct West Marine Publishing company. The reef was clearly marked on another chart book I looked at after the fact. I'll never hit that reef again, nor will I rely on only one chart at a time.
Aren't all the charts and chartplotters the same?!? :eek:

OK, OK, just what ARE the coordinates of this puppy? Since you hit it, someone should know exactly where it is! :doh:

Please share...
 
Apr 21, 2009
7
Pearson 26 Brooklyn
Inner Reef

The grounding occured in the Thimble Islands near Branford, CT. The reef is clearly marked as "Inner Reef" on every chart I've looked at since (just south of High Island). The chart book I was using had it marked as well, but only on the enlarged chart of the Eastern Sound. I switched to the inset of the Thimbles after passing Green Can "3" on my way in. I thought I was in the channel that leads through the Thimbles as I took Green Can "4" to my left and Red Nun "5" to my right. The inset clearly covers this area since it shows markers both south and west of the spot, but they didn't bother to put the Inner Reef onthere as well. And the placement of those buoys with the reef right in between still makes no sense to me. Sigh.

So yes perhaps I was hasty in calling the reef uncharted. I should have called it confusing. I could have avoided this if I had studied things more carefully before I got there(I thought I had) or if I had just slowed down my approach to a crawl (I'll be kicking myself for some time). I've been sailing for years but cruising is rather new to me. Obviously this is a big and painful learning experience.

The thimbles are great, but tricky indeed. My friend grew up on one of the islands and he just avoids entire sections of the area in his boat. He told me about a recent incident where a sailor got his boat lodged between two rocks and had to have his hull cut apart in order to get it off. Maybe that's the story you saw, Rob?

And yes I am familiar with Dan Pfeiffer's site, thanks Rich. It's extremely useful, but I wanted a little more individualized information on this one.

As for my current situation, I want to thank you all again for your help. I'll get the boat hauled out this week or if I can find my old drysuit I'll get under there myself. I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road, and I'll let you all know what happens.

Jack
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
How Will You Sleep?

How will you sleep if you don't look and how will you ever have confidence in her if you don't get a professional to give advice?
If the crash was as bad as you say then IMHO its a no brainer.
Sorry.
And your insurance will pay out now for any damage - but try making a claim in a year or so.
Please don't ask how I know this.
 
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