How have people handled the task of dropping and retrieving the anchor single-handed? Actually, dropping seems much easier than retrieving. Once you break free when retieving the anchor, you still have rode and tackle in the water, but now you are drifting..... I am considering installing a windlass to aid somewhat, but they are not fool-proof either. (I don't plan on single-handing, but I know from time to time, I will probably have to.)
- Status
I am singlehand most of the time
There are a couple of ways to solve this problem I have found useable. A windlass could work but is not within my budget, not would it really fit on my boat. If you have an autopilot you can set the pilot to hold the boat more or less into the wind (even better if you have the windvane to tell it where to point) and set just enough throttle to overcome the wind. You then buy yourself enough time to haul the rode. Last summer I learned to do this without and engine when mine ate itself. I would sail up as close hauled as possible to unset the anchor, then heave-to and haul the line as I drifted slowly downwind. This works well and is good heaving to practice. Another technique I tried, but eventually abandoned was to use a fairly heavy trip line attached to the anchor with a small float to mark it and keep it on the surface. I could sail up and then drift down on the mark, haul the anchor, and sail off then retrieve the remainder of the rode. I don't like this because the trip line creates a fouling hazzard for other boats and because while it never happened to me I could see snagging the rode on something while the boat was beginning to sail. Regardless of technique, I see the goal as trying to get on top of the anchor so you can pull as much of the rode aboard ahead of time as possible. That way your only pulling as much as the depth of the water. I have seen several boats around here with their rodes led aft to the primaries so that they can be used a windlasses. Seems to me this only works if you have very little chain or you'll destroy your boat. I'd rather have the chain. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
There are a couple of ways to solve this problem I have found useable. A windlass could work but is not within my budget, not would it really fit on my boat. If you have an autopilot you can set the pilot to hold the boat more or less into the wind (even better if you have the windvane to tell it where to point) and set just enough throttle to overcome the wind. You then buy yourself enough time to haul the rode. Last summer I learned to do this without and engine when mine ate itself. I would sail up as close hauled as possible to unset the anchor, then heave-to and haul the line as I drifted slowly downwind. This works well and is good heaving to practice. Another technique I tried, but eventually abandoned was to use a fairly heavy trip line attached to the anchor with a small float to mark it and keep it on the surface. I could sail up and then drift down on the mark, haul the anchor, and sail off then retrieve the remainder of the rode. I don't like this because the trip line creates a fouling hazzard for other boats and because while it never happened to me I could see snagging the rode on something while the boat was beginning to sail. Regardless of technique, I see the goal as trying to get on top of the anchor so you can pull as much of the rode aboard ahead of time as possible. That way your only pulling as much as the depth of the water. I have seen several boats around here with their rodes led aft to the primaries so that they can be used a windlasses. Seems to me this only works if you have very little chain or you'll destroy your boat. I'd rather have the chain. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
And in addition
I would agree with Justin, with the following additions: if you have an autopilot, it may be worth it to buy the remote. I seldom have to use mine, but on a few occaisions in high wind and crowded anchorages, bringing the remote for my autohelm up forward (it won't quite reach the bow of my 33, but it comes close), has made what happens after the anchor clears the bottom go much more smoothly! This is when powering slowly or sailing. There is a good technique which Justin may have partially observed. Lead your anchor rode aft from the bow outside your lifelines, back to the cockpit. When dropping your anchor, you can put it over from the stern. The anchor will bring the boat to a stop, snubbing the anchor. You can then go forward and let out more rode. Your boat will, of course, come round head-to-wind, since that is where the rode will now be coming from. You can retrieve the anchor more or less the same way, in reverse, if there is not too much wind. Justin is correct that the chain will have to be handled carefully, and, in fact, this system is really only practical if you are using mostly line. I agree with Justin that windlasses can have problems, although most don't. I actually have my bow set up so that my all-chain rode is quite easily retrieved by hand. I am able to sit and simply grab the chain with gloved hands and rock back and forth as if rowing. In all but high winds, it comes up as quicly and as easily as with a windlass, but, I must admit that my set-up is (by mostly good luck and a little thought) quite handy.I am comfortable anchoring in up to 60 feet, but over about 40 feet, I do get my excercise for the day! If things get really tough, I lead lines from the chain back to halyard winches on the mast.....and life gets pretty complicated and messy X#&X#&*!!!!!but I still do manage to retrieve the anchor.
I would agree with Justin, with the following additions: if you have an autopilot, it may be worth it to buy the remote. I seldom have to use mine, but on a few occaisions in high wind and crowded anchorages, bringing the remote for my autohelm up forward (it won't quite reach the bow of my 33, but it comes close), has made what happens after the anchor clears the bottom go much more smoothly! This is when powering slowly or sailing. There is a good technique which Justin may have partially observed. Lead your anchor rode aft from the bow outside your lifelines, back to the cockpit. When dropping your anchor, you can put it over from the stern. The anchor will bring the boat to a stop, snubbing the anchor. You can then go forward and let out more rode. Your boat will, of course, come round head-to-wind, since that is where the rode will now be coming from. You can retrieve the anchor more or less the same way, in reverse, if there is not too much wind. Justin is correct that the chain will have to be handled carefully, and, in fact, this system is really only practical if you are using mostly line. I agree with Justin that windlasses can have problems, although most don't. I actually have my bow set up so that my all-chain rode is quite easily retrieved by hand. I am able to sit and simply grab the chain with gloved hands and rock back and forth as if rowing. In all but high winds, it comes up as quicly and as easily as with a windlass, but, I must admit that my set-up is (by mostly good luck and a little thought) quite handy.I am comfortable anchoring in up to 60 feet, but over about 40 feet, I do get my excercise for the day! If things get really tough, I lead lines from the chain back to halyard winches on the mast.....and life gets pretty complicated and messy X#&X#&*!!!!!but I still do manage to retrieve the anchor.
Single handed anchoring
Everyone develops, and continues to develop, anchoring techniques which are specific to their boat, tackle and situation. The auto pilot certainly will help, as pointed out by Justine and Tim. Let's assume, however, that you do not have one, or you do not wish to depend on the auto pilot. Here are some techniques I have found work with my 35.5'. Anchoring: On deck, flake out enough rode for the depth of water in which you will be anchoring and remove any securing device, pin, line, bungee, etc. which you use to secure the anchor to the roller. After selecting the anchoring location approach upwind, slowly. Just before you get to the selected spot take the engine out of gear if under power, or, if under sail let the main luff or release the halyard. Go forward and lower the anchor after the boat stops its forward motion. Set the anchor. Relatively easy. There may come a time when you do not wish to leave the cockpit. In such a situation all is not lost. Before flaking out the rode run it aft to the cockpit winch - if it will run fairly - (snatch blocks will be of help here). Then flake out the necessary rode. You will now be able to lower the anchor from the cockpit - it may be necessary to let the anchor "hang" from the roller so it will pay out without you going forward. When lowered, secure the rode to the winch or an aft cleat, set the anchor, and go forward to secure the rode to the forward cleat. Weighing anchor is a bit more difficult and requires more planning. You must pay even more attention to current and wind because it will be necessary to leave the boat "not under command" for a brief period of time. The secret is to preplan you moves. Have you engine in neutral if under power, or main up and luffing if under sail. Shorten up on the rode and stow the excess line in the chain locker. I like to do this hand over hand - without engine assist in order to keep the boat in total control. The boat is now just about directly over the anchor and a bit of a tug, or wave action after securing the rode to the forward cleat as taught as possible, should break it out. Before breaking the anchor out take another look around to make sure you have enough room to drift for a short time while stowing the remaining rode/anchor. Break out the anchor, haul it aboard while stowing the rode in the locker, stow it on the roller. I like to tie the shortened rode and chain with a small line to the bow pulpit for a while to dry out before stowing in the locker. If there is less room/time then you would like, you can run the rode aft to the cockpit winch and bring it aboard from the cockpit. The drawback is that there will be line on deck. It can be stowed after clearing the anchorage. It really takes more trouble to explain the proceedure that to accomplish it. Try it in calm conditions a few time, until you get the hang of it. You will develop confidence in your method and be able to execute the manouver in less then ideal conditions with little problem. Good luck, Pat
Everyone develops, and continues to develop, anchoring techniques which are specific to their boat, tackle and situation. The auto pilot certainly will help, as pointed out by Justine and Tim. Let's assume, however, that you do not have one, or you do not wish to depend on the auto pilot. Here are some techniques I have found work with my 35.5'. Anchoring: On deck, flake out enough rode for the depth of water in which you will be anchoring and remove any securing device, pin, line, bungee, etc. which you use to secure the anchor to the roller. After selecting the anchoring location approach upwind, slowly. Just before you get to the selected spot take the engine out of gear if under power, or, if under sail let the main luff or release the halyard. Go forward and lower the anchor after the boat stops its forward motion. Set the anchor. Relatively easy. There may come a time when you do not wish to leave the cockpit. In such a situation all is not lost. Before flaking out the rode run it aft to the cockpit winch - if it will run fairly - (snatch blocks will be of help here). Then flake out the necessary rode. You will now be able to lower the anchor from the cockpit - it may be necessary to let the anchor "hang" from the roller so it will pay out without you going forward. When lowered, secure the rode to the winch or an aft cleat, set the anchor, and go forward to secure the rode to the forward cleat. Weighing anchor is a bit more difficult and requires more planning. You must pay even more attention to current and wind because it will be necessary to leave the boat "not under command" for a brief period of time. The secret is to preplan you moves. Have you engine in neutral if under power, or main up and luffing if under sail. Shorten up on the rode and stow the excess line in the chain locker. I like to do this hand over hand - without engine assist in order to keep the boat in total control. The boat is now just about directly over the anchor and a bit of a tug, or wave action after securing the rode to the forward cleat as taught as possible, should break it out. Before breaking the anchor out take another look around to make sure you have enough room to drift for a short time while stowing the remaining rode/anchor. Break out the anchor, haul it aboard while stowing the rode in the locker, stow it on the roller. I like to tie the shortened rode and chain with a small line to the bow pulpit for a while to dry out before stowing in the locker. If there is less room/time then you would like, you can run the rode aft to the cockpit winch and bring it aboard from the cockpit. The drawback is that there will be line on deck. It can be stowed after clearing the anchorage. It really takes more trouble to explain the proceedure that to accomplish it. Try it in calm conditions a few time, until you get the hang of it. You will develop confidence in your method and be able to execute the manouver in less then ideal conditions with little problem. Good luck, Pat
It depends on the wind and size of your boat
Debra, All three posts before me are excellent. I have a Hunter 28.5 that I often singlehand. When anchoring, I try to leave enough room for the inevitable drift that will occur when it's time to raise and secure the anchor. My boat doesn't have a roller or a windlass. The anchor itself and the rode all go in the anchor locker on the foredeck. Unless it's very windy, I can easily pull it in by hand. However, if it is very windy, I resort to a chinese fire drill, where I make quick trips from helm to bow and back, to motor forward enough to slacken the rode, then pull it in and cleat it, until I have the boat directly on top of the anchor itself. The rest is an exercise in pulling and cleating, until the anchor breaks free. As has been pointed out in the other replies, the art of singlehanded anchoring takes practice and adjustment to what works best for you. One thing I definitely do *NOT* do is ever leave the helm with the motor in gear, not even to attend to some chore in the cockpit. You always have to think about what will happen if you inadvertenly fall overboard. If you do with the engine in gear, you have a slight, slight chance of grabbing something before your boat leaves you, after which you are going to make the evening news, guaranteed. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
Debra, All three posts before me are excellent. I have a Hunter 28.5 that I often singlehand. When anchoring, I try to leave enough room for the inevitable drift that will occur when it's time to raise and secure the anchor. My boat doesn't have a roller or a windlass. The anchor itself and the rode all go in the anchor locker on the foredeck. Unless it's very windy, I can easily pull it in by hand. However, if it is very windy, I resort to a chinese fire drill, where I make quick trips from helm to bow and back, to motor forward enough to slacken the rode, then pull it in and cleat it, until I have the boat directly on top of the anchor itself. The rest is an exercise in pulling and cleating, until the anchor breaks free. As has been pointed out in the other replies, the art of singlehanded anchoring takes practice and adjustment to what works best for you. One thing I definitely do *NOT* do is ever leave the helm with the motor in gear, not even to attend to some chore in the cockpit. You always have to think about what will happen if you inadvertenly fall overboard. If you do with the engine in gear, you have a slight, slight chance of grabbing something before your boat leaves you, after which you are going to make the evening news, guaranteed. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
Truth in Eric's post
Eric really has a good point about going forward with the boat in gear. I'd rather make the news some other way! This is one of the reasons I like the sail up and heave-to method. You and the boat will drift at similar enough speeds (at least the way my boat heaves-to) that you will have a good chance of getting back on it if you fall off. I would seriously recommend a bow roller of some sort. I am adding one that will stow my Claw this spring. I have an idea that using a chainstop I can rig a trip line to the cockpit, which in turn will allow me to drop the hook in safety. Getting the anchor back still remains a problem but you have to not have just gone on the rocks to leeward to be worried about that! Also, I guess it goes without saying - the most expensive ground tackle costs less than even a simple glass repair, let alone a funeral. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Eric really has a good point about going forward with the boat in gear. I'd rather make the news some other way! This is one of the reasons I like the sail up and heave-to method. You and the boat will drift at similar enough speeds (at least the way my boat heaves-to) that you will have a good chance of getting back on it if you fall off. I would seriously recommend a bow roller of some sort. I am adding one that will stow my Claw this spring. I have an idea that using a chainstop I can rig a trip line to the cockpit, which in turn will allow me to drop the hook in safety. Getting the anchor back still remains a problem but you have to not have just gone on the rocks to leeward to be worried about that! Also, I guess it goes without saying - the most expensive ground tackle costs less than even a simple glass repair, let alone a funeral. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Chopped meat
Eric is right in pointing out the danger of going overboard. I should have pointed out how crucial a harness is in everything you do singlehanded. It throws the inevitable compromises a bit more in your favor. And, having seen propellers injest stuff from farther away than you would want to think, I feel that if you went overboard with the engine turning over, you would make the evening news as a piece of chopped meat! I would be swimming as hard as I could to get away from the hull....which wouldn't be such a happy choice, either.
Eric is right in pointing out the danger of going overboard. I should have pointed out how crucial a harness is in everything you do singlehanded. It throws the inevitable compromises a bit more in your favor. And, having seen propellers injest stuff from farther away than you would want to think, I feel that if you went overboard with the engine turning over, you would make the evening news as a piece of chopped meat! I would be swimming as hard as I could to get away from the hull....which wouldn't be such a happy choice, either.
I'm surprised no one has suggested...
playing out enough additional line to walk it back to the cockpit to raise the anchor, so that you're close the helm--eliminating the "chinese fire drill" back & forth from the bow to the helm--and can even wrap the line around a winch if it doesn't want to come up. As you haul up the anchor line, the boat will turn so that the anchor is right beside the cockpit...once it's completely off the bottom, far enough to clear anything on the bottom you may sail over, but still below anything it can bang against (which since it's trailing now isn't likely anyway), secure it to a stern cleat...motor out to open water where you have plenty of room to drift while you walk it back to the bow to play the line into the chain locker...then raise it the rest of the way. I single-hand most of the time..and this works for me. Even though I'm a stinkpot, the anchor doesn't know the difference...so it should work even better on a sailboat, 'cuz you have winches on your cockpit gunwhales, and I don't!
playing out enough additional line to walk it back to the cockpit to raise the anchor, so that you're close the helm--eliminating the "chinese fire drill" back & forth from the bow to the helm--and can even wrap the line around a winch if it doesn't want to come up. As you haul up the anchor line, the boat will turn so that the anchor is right beside the cockpit...once it's completely off the bottom, far enough to clear anything on the bottom you may sail over, but still below anything it can bang against (which since it's trailing now isn't likely anyway), secure it to a stern cleat...motor out to open water where you have plenty of room to drift while you walk it back to the bow to play the line into the chain locker...then raise it the rest of the way. I single-hand most of the time..and this works for me. Even though I'm a stinkpot, the anchor doesn't know the difference...so it should work even better on a sailboat, 'cuz you have winches on your cockpit gunwhales, and I don't!
It also depends if your mainsail is up
Peggie, I've only been caught twice by wind strong enough to make the anchor rode "guitar string" tight. Under these conditions, the boat will drift back very fast after motoring forward, so fast that there may not be time to walk the rode aft. The other consideration is if you've raised the mainsail and need the anchor rode secured forward to keep headed into the wind. If (when) this next happens, I'll give your idea a try. Eric
Peggie, I've only been caught twice by wind strong enough to make the anchor rode "guitar string" tight. Under these conditions, the boat will drift back very fast after motoring forward, so fast that there may not be time to walk the rode aft. The other consideration is if you've raised the mainsail and need the anchor rode secured forward to keep headed into the wind. If (when) this next happens, I'll give your idea a try. Eric
Does this make sense?
Maybe I'm a bit daft but I didn't make out that anyone suggested this. Just take the entire line off the bow and walk it aft to the cockpit first (don't let go). Cleat it off there if you want, let the boat slew round sideways if it wants to, and THEN start the engine and go about getting under way. Use a sheet winch if you have to (self-tailers were made for this– I see Lewmar now has one adapted for anchors). The anchor will of course end up slimy and wet underfoot but you can certainly hook it over the stern pulpit to dry. I read about this a long time ago in Cruising World but have never tried it (never had to). However I have seen boats with cheap little stainless-steel anchor rollers on the transom so obviously people are doing it. Let me know if anyone has tried this this way. JC
Maybe I'm a bit daft but I didn't make out that anyone suggested this. Just take the entire line off the bow and walk it aft to the cockpit first (don't let go). Cleat it off there if you want, let the boat slew round sideways if it wants to, and THEN start the engine and go about getting under way. Use a sheet winch if you have to (self-tailers were made for this– I see Lewmar now has one adapted for anchors). The anchor will of course end up slimy and wet underfoot but you can certainly hook it over the stern pulpit to dry. I read about this a long time ago in Cruising World but have never tried it (never had to). However I have seen boats with cheap little stainless-steel anchor rollers on the transom so obviously people are doing it. Let me know if anyone has tried this this way. JC
A question
Feb.26,2001 Dear Debra, Sorry, I missed your original post or I would have asked this sooner. It would help if we could know what it is that your sailing and the anchor set up before giving advice. However, having said that, I am impressed as always by the solid seamanship quality of the advice offered by the sailors out there responding to you. If you are under sail I especially favour the advice offered by Justin - it is also the technigue we teach for retrieving anchors under sail in small craft single handed. I also like his suggestion for deploying the anchor single handed. this would be especially useful when it is breezinng up and things can happen rather quickly. In light conditions there is usually enough time to get forward and handle things from there. In the alternative I like Peggy's suggestion for retrieval up until the chain hits the fibreglass. That can make things awkward unless you have a roller or similar set up to hold the rode off the side or stern of the boat. I've used this technique on The Legend when I've been shorthanded and have the rope and chain rode deployed, and were 45 feet long. I don't use it when I'm on the all chain rode however because I don't have the hardware to hold the cable out from the side of the boat aft. Also in answer to Jay's question about bringing the whole rode aft, obviously this only works if you have a small boat and light rode, and quite frankly I would be loath to undo the bitter end under any but the most extreme conditions, in which case I'm retrieving the anchor later, if you get my drift : -) Needless to say, I wouldn't try to carry what ever was left inboard of my 60 fathoms of 3/8 chain rode aft to bring the anchor aboard. Any way let us know what your sailing and don't be afraid to single hand the boat. It gives you the most wonderful feeling of freedon and accomplishment to handle it single handed. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay St. Lucia
Feb.26,2001 Dear Debra, Sorry, I missed your original post or I would have asked this sooner. It would help if we could know what it is that your sailing and the anchor set up before giving advice. However, having said that, I am impressed as always by the solid seamanship quality of the advice offered by the sailors out there responding to you. If you are under sail I especially favour the advice offered by Justin - it is also the technigue we teach for retrieving anchors under sail in small craft single handed. I also like his suggestion for deploying the anchor single handed. this would be especially useful when it is breezinng up and things can happen rather quickly. In light conditions there is usually enough time to get forward and handle things from there. In the alternative I like Peggy's suggestion for retrieval up until the chain hits the fibreglass. That can make things awkward unless you have a roller or similar set up to hold the rode off the side or stern of the boat. I've used this technique on The Legend when I've been shorthanded and have the rope and chain rode deployed, and were 45 feet long. I don't use it when I'm on the all chain rode however because I don't have the hardware to hold the cable out from the side of the boat aft. Also in answer to Jay's question about bringing the whole rode aft, obviously this only works if you have a small boat and light rode, and quite frankly I would be loath to undo the bitter end under any but the most extreme conditions, in which case I'm retrieving the anchor later, if you get my drift : -) Needless to say, I wouldn't try to carry what ever was left inboard of my 60 fathoms of 3/8 chain rode aft to bring the anchor aboard. Any way let us know what your sailing and don't be afraid to single hand the boat. It gives you the most wonderful feeling of freedon and accomplishment to handle it single handed. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay St. Lucia
Prettiest Anchoring I ever saw
Last month in the USVI, I watched awestruck as this gentleman in his 50+ Hinckly ketch quietly motored up beside me, hit reverse to stop, then quickly walked up to the bow and released his anchor. He had it set and was back preparing his morning coffee in about five minutes. Can't comment on how he left, but the anchoring part was a thing of beauty. I contrast this to the fiasco the mate and I had setting our anchor a couple of days earlier in another crowded anchorage. Three tries and a loss of skin later, we were finally set. We have alot to learn. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
Last month in the USVI, I watched awestruck as this gentleman in his 50+ Hinckly ketch quietly motored up beside me, hit reverse to stop, then quickly walked up to the bow and released his anchor. He had it set and was back preparing his morning coffee in about five minutes. Can't comment on how he left, but the anchoring part was a thing of beauty. I contrast this to the fiasco the mate and I had setting our anchor a couple of days earlier in another crowded anchorage. Three tries and a loss of skin later, we were finally set. We have alot to learn. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
Eric, unless you've used every bit of your rode,
What's to prevent you from just letting out more as you walk it back to the cockpit? Without a windlass, if the anchor is dug in "guitar string" tight, bringing it back to the cockpit to put it on a winch should make it easier to bring it up. Btw... why would you raise the main until you're in open water?
What's to prevent you from just letting out more as you walk it back to the cockpit? Without a windlass, if the anchor is dug in "guitar string" tight, bringing it back to the cockpit to put it on a winch should make it easier to bring it up. Btw... why would you raise the main until you're in open water?
Brian, when you walk it back...
Don't uncleat at the bow until you've secured the bitter end to a stern cleat. Then you can go forward and release it without the "chinese fire drill." Then, as John Cherubini said, the boat will then swing around stern to the anchor and you can winch it off the bottom from the cockpit. You only need to raise it far enough off the bottom to allow you to motor out to open water...there's no need to raise it till the chain hits the fiberglass unless you have a more than 6" of chain at the end of a rope chain rode. A rubber mat over the gunwhale should even allow you bring an all chain rode up that far. I don't THINK that boat size has anything to do with whether it's practical to raise the anchor from the cockpit...My boats have all been over 30'. And btw...if the anchor doesn't want to let go, cleating it off the stern allows you to motor forward and/or maneuver around it to find an angle to pull it much more easily than if it's still tied off at the bow.
Don't uncleat at the bow until you've secured the bitter end to a stern cleat. Then you can go forward and release it without the "chinese fire drill." Then, as John Cherubini said, the boat will then swing around stern to the anchor and you can winch it off the bottom from the cockpit. You only need to raise it far enough off the bottom to allow you to motor out to open water...there's no need to raise it till the chain hits the fiberglass unless you have a more than 6" of chain at the end of a rope chain rode. A rubber mat over the gunwhale should even allow you bring an all chain rode up that far. I don't THINK that boat size has anything to do with whether it's practical to raise the anchor from the cockpit...My boats have all been over 30'. And btw...if the anchor doesn't want to let go, cleating it off the stern allows you to motor forward and/or maneuver around it to find an angle to pull it much more easily than if it's still tied off at the bow.
Unabashed Advocate of "Chinese Fire Drill"
The advice I gave was applicable to very *WINDY* conditions while singlehanded on a medium-sized boat without a windlass or autopilot, which for me is my Hunter 28.5. The CFD technique works for me, and is good exercise. However, I'm open to new ideas, so I'll give the taking the rode aft idea a try. I think it would first require motoring forward a good distance. When it is very windy, the boat will begin to drift *VERY* quickly once the tension is off the rode. And that is assuming that my plans are for motoring away. If I'm planning to sail off the anchor, then getting the mainsail up in *VERY WINDY* conditions is always a challenge, if one likes to do this while headed up, which I do. Raising the sail while still at anchor (secured forward) is how I like to do it. What are the other ways (without an autopilot or windvane)? As for larger boats, like my Hunter 54, I agree with Brian that it would be difficult to haul the chain out of the locker and try to carry the whole mess aft. I think I'd rather rig a remote switch to operate the windlass from the cockpit, and bring up the anchor by motoring in its direction while gingerly windlassing. This thread has come at an opportune time, as I will be singlehanding my H54 from Marathon to Key West this weekend. If I encounter any anchoring epiphanies, I shall weigh in with my discovery. Anchors Away!
The advice I gave was applicable to very *WINDY* conditions while singlehanded on a medium-sized boat without a windlass or autopilot, which for me is my Hunter 28.5. The CFD technique works for me, and is good exercise. However, I'm open to new ideas, so I'll give the taking the rode aft idea a try. I think it would first require motoring forward a good distance. When it is very windy, the boat will begin to drift *VERY* quickly once the tension is off the rode. And that is assuming that my plans are for motoring away. If I'm planning to sail off the anchor, then getting the mainsail up in *VERY WINDY* conditions is always a challenge, if one likes to do this while headed up, which I do. Raising the sail while still at anchor (secured forward) is how I like to do it. What are the other ways (without an autopilot or windvane)? As for larger boats, like my Hunter 54, I agree with Brian that it would be difficult to haul the chain out of the locker and try to carry the whole mess aft. I think I'd rather rig a remote switch to operate the windlass from the cockpit, and bring up the anchor by motoring in its direction while gingerly windlassing. This thread has come at an opportune time, as I will be singlehanding my H54 from Marathon to Key West this weekend. If I encounter any anchoring epiphanies, I shall weigh in with my discovery. Anchors Away!
Thanks for all the suggestions
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Brian asked what kind of ground tackle do I have and what kind of set up do I have. The ground tackle is all undersized, and some does not even have rode. It also has a few nasty weak links due to rust and just plain neglect. So, before I spend the big bucks on new anchors, and rode, and maybe a new roller, I thought I would ask to see what works and what doesn't. I bought the boat - for a good price in November and have been slowly doing some refiting. (New standing rigging, replaced most hose clamps and some hoses, new exhaust hose, cutlass bearing, new engine mounts, new stuffing box and some gerneral engine work are done -- not all by me. New instruments are on hand and will be installed, still trying to find room for decent holding tank, this list goes on. OK, it was a fair price.) The question is in part because the next order of business is ground tackle, and I am trying to decide on a windlass or not. It realy wasn't in the original budget, but it would be awfully nice to have. The forward chain locker on Hunter Cutter 37 is a bit small. A windlass would help, in the chain would end up below deck. Fore of the V-berth. Debra
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Brian asked what kind of ground tackle do I have and what kind of set up do I have. The ground tackle is all undersized, and some does not even have rode. It also has a few nasty weak links due to rust and just plain neglect. So, before I spend the big bucks on new anchors, and rode, and maybe a new roller, I thought I would ask to see what works and what doesn't. I bought the boat - for a good price in November and have been slowly doing some refiting. (New standing rigging, replaced most hose clamps and some hoses, new exhaust hose, cutlass bearing, new engine mounts, new stuffing box and some gerneral engine work are done -- not all by me. New instruments are on hand and will be installed, still trying to find room for decent holding tank, this list goes on. OK, it was a fair price.) The question is in part because the next order of business is ground tackle, and I am trying to decide on a windlass or not. It realy wasn't in the original budget, but it would be awfully nice to have. The forward chain locker on Hunter Cutter 37 is a bit small. A windlass would help, in the chain would end up below deck. Fore of the V-berth. Debra
Hey Peggy...
Feb. 27,2001 Dear Peggy , Thanks for the clariification. I was thinking of the times I've anchored in 20 to 30 feet of water because the shortest piece of chain I've got on any rode is 48 feet. Your suggestion of a rubber mat is a good one - I have a piece of oil cloth I use for dirty work already rigged with lines that would work. The biggest problem we have found with bringing the rode aft is that frequently we were anchored in 30 plus feet and with a current running the mass of the boat would overwhelm our efforts to lead the rode aft. Of course, if I had the brains God gave geese I would use the rode left in the chain locker instead of that already over the bow, and then release the rode from the anchor cleat, right? Thanks again, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net, aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Feb. 27,2001 Dear Peggy , Thanks for the clariification. I was thinking of the times I've anchored in 20 to 30 feet of water because the shortest piece of chain I've got on any rode is 48 feet. Your suggestion of a rubber mat is a good one - I have a piece of oil cloth I use for dirty work already rigged with lines that would work. The biggest problem we have found with bringing the rode aft is that frequently we were anchored in 30 plus feet and with a current running the mass of the boat would overwhelm our efforts to lead the rode aft. Of course, if I had the brains God gave geese I would use the rode left in the chain locker instead of that already over the bow, and then release the rode from the anchor cleat, right? Thanks again, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net, aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
And remember.....
.....that when manuevering around under power, with the anchor rode tide off aft, that you keep a very good eye on everything....a fouled prop will precipitate more than the Chinese Fire Drill!!!
.....that when manuevering around under power, with the anchor rode tide off aft, that you keep a very good eye on everything....a fouled prop will precipitate more than the Chinese Fire Drill!!!
Hey Brian 
Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the hardest to see. Btw...I also use a similar technique to grab a mooring buoy when I'm single handing. It's much easier to grab it from the cockpit and tie it off to stern cleat immediately than to try to take a line to the bow. Then, if I don't want to remain moored stern to, I can get out a longer line--preferably long enough to just run through the ring on the buoy and double it back, walk both ends to the bow, secure them to a cleat...and THEN release the stern line. Tim, if the anchor line is tight, it's just about impossible to catch it in the prop as you maneuver to break the anchor free. It's gonna be angled away from the hull or transom--WELL away from the prop--at a 30-45 degree angle while you pull.
Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the hardest to see. Btw...I also use a similar technique to grab a mooring buoy when I'm single handing. It's much easier to grab it from the cockpit and tie it off to stern cleat immediately than to try to take a line to the bow. Then, if I don't want to remain moored stern to, I can get out a longer line--preferably long enough to just run through the ring on the buoy and double it back, walk both ends to the bow, secure them to a cleat...and THEN release the stern line. Tim, if the anchor line is tight, it's just about impossible to catch it in the prop as you maneuver to break the anchor free. It's gonna be angled away from the hull or transom--WELL away from the prop--at a 30-45 degree angle while you pull.
Hey Peggy, about that mooring line...
Feb.28,2001 Dear Peggy, Are you right about missing the obvious. Glad you enjoyed my previoius skull cramp. About that mooring pick up, I like to lead a line from the bow outside the lifelines back to the cockpit when I'm single handing and going to pick up a mooring. Like you I like to come along side, pick up the mooring from the cockpit, but then I attach the line I've lead from the bow and let it go. The boat sits head to wind while I get the sail tidied up, and I shorten the tether and double the mooring line at my leisure. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Feb.28,2001 Dear Peggy, Are you right about missing the obvious. Glad you enjoyed my previoius skull cramp. About that mooring pick up, I like to lead a line from the bow outside the lifelines back to the cockpit when I'm single handing and going to pick up a mooring. Like you I like to come along side, pick up the mooring from the cockpit, but then I attach the line I've lead from the bow and let it go. The boat sits head to wind while I get the sail tidied up, and I shorten the tether and double the mooring line at my leisure. Fair winds, Brian Pickton of BeneteauOwners.net aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
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