Hand rails / hand rail covers

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BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Whew...one coat down and two more to go. I pulled my hand rails off two weeks ago and dragged them home. Thankfully I have pickup. Just too darn cold to work outside until now and too darn long to bring inside. I had scraped off most of the varnish last spring and then never got around to the finish work, so I decided to bite the bullet and do the job right.

I am glad I did. Nobody had ever varnished the undersides, which is a varnishing no-no. They were molding and nasty underneath. They had been scraped down so many times that there was a little volcano of wood around each bolt head! I decided to just sand them clean rather than use a teak cleaner and brightner, rinsing them and letting them dry. I then wiped them down with ethanol with cheese cloth to remove surface teak oil and sawdust. I applied one coat of Cetol last night and am now in my 24 hour waiting period before the next coat. It looks good...except that S2 chose two pieces of lumber with vastly different grain patterns. They look very different at the moment, but hopefully the pigment in the Cetol will even out the color.

I'd like to make some protective covers for them, but they are so darned long! I can't imagine hacking something together out of sunbrella with my non-existent sewing skills that would look good. Of course my Wife has a whole room dedicated to sewing, but I can't get her to sew on a button. I did buy a roll of sunbrella to make a companionway cover, but that work is still pending. It is a fair amount of material, but the easiest way to do the rail covers would be to start with a piece of the right length, which would burn through a lot of material for sure. I was thinking about just using velcro between the stand off pins, perhaps mounting a snap at each end. Has anyone tried this?

Cetol definitely isn't for everyone. I was looking for something that provided maximum protection with a minimal number of coats. I think it will do that, but the price you pay for it is perhaps a darker color than some would like. I tried it last spring on the hatch boards. They needed some attention, so I just sanded them and applied a coat, as something was better than nothing. It held up well through one season. I will apply a second coat this year as maintenance.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Second coat is on. Hopefully a third tomorrow before showers roll in Tuesday evening. I still have to strip all the metal vertical pieces and create the fillers. Right now I am thinking to use this fiberglass reinforced plastic rod to replace the wood inserts. It is inexpensive with good dimensional stability and should last the life of the boat.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23193&catid=561
 

BobT

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Sep 29, 2008
239
Gulfstar 37 North East River, Chesapeake Bay
Good source link, Bob. Thanks. I'm looking at the same project soon. I did use the clear cetol on my companionway boards last spring and have been pleased.

I just 2nd coated the bottom with micron extra. There was quite a bit of soft growth on the Micron CSC last year here in the Chesapeake.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Got the third coat of Cetol on last night. It looks good...except for the occaisional black fly and one mosquito stuck to it LOL.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Turns out the min. order from US plastics for that material was 10 feet and with shipping it was getting to be a bit much. For reference, on a 9.2A there are nine holes through each rail. Two on each rail don't have a stainless stand off, therefore the rod stubs (originally wood dowel) that fit inside the stainless tube stubs aren't required. So that leaves 14 stubs total required for two hand rails. The ss tube stubs are cut at an angle on top and are 1" min and roughly 1 3/16" max. All the ss tube stubs seem to be roughly the same height and are 1" OD and mine are a hair over 7/8" ID. So I need 14 x 7/8 inches of material or just a hair over a foot of material. Perhaps a bit more as I will likely lose an eight per cut, depending on how I cut them. The hole down the center is 1/4" and 14 pan head ss phillips bolts are 2.75" although I may need smaller as I sanded down the "volcanoes" of teak that had formed around the bolt heards from years of scraping and refinishing. Those were 1/8-1/4 inch tall, so I may actually need shorter bolts now. The end bolts were cut shorter at the factory and two are roughly 2.25" and two are 1.5."

Note - In hindsight, I just realized that I screwed myself, as I have finished three coats and just realized that after shaving off the "volcanoes" for a smoother look I should have counter sunk the holes more. Also, I should have ordered my new bolts, if I am going to do so, PRIOR to doing all of this as the head size and angle may differ slightly. So now I need to order my hardware, counter sink appropriately and then add at least one more coat of cetol to seal it all up. Argh. Well...this is why we all write this stuff...so others can learn from our mistakes! I was going to take a bunch of photos, but realized that varnishing is an art and I am a hack at it, so I didn't want anyone taking my actions as gospel...far from it...my aim is to get my boat in good repair and to have it look good from 10 feet LOL. I don't have the time or ambition for better than that!
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Whoops. Forgot to tell you I scoped out some 7/8" Delrin rod on ebay. The seller has a machine shop so I asked for a quote on 14 7/8 stubs with 1/4" holes in them just to see what it would cost. If it is <$50 I am going for it as I really have far too much to do to screw around for an hour making these things if it is $10 for material and someone else will do the labor for $40. That's time I can spend countersinking my screw up and varnishing for crying out loud!
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
No word regarding the Delrin. I priced out new stainless bolts and nuts and it will likely be about $50-80. Yeesh, plus the 2.75" size is odd and I may have to cut bolts down. Using the old ones is starting to look better. Perhaps I'll clean them up. I thought about buying a tumbler (~$40) to do so, as I will no doubt have other uses for it too.
 

lukeb

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Mar 7, 2010
11
s2 8.ob Mikes Marina Rockport, IN
Bob you may want to apply a small amount of silcone to top and bottom of stainless steel studs before installation. I also redid my handrails on my 79 8.ob and the wood in studs was gone. My Friends had a wooded rod which they cut and drill hole and I silcone top and bottom of stud before installation.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
No word regarding the Delrin. I priced out new stainless bolts and nuts and it will likely be about $50-80. Yeesh, plus the 2.75" size is odd and I may have to cut bolts down. Using the old ones is starting to look better. Perhaps I'll clean them up. I thought about buying a tumbler (~$40) to do so, as I will no doubt have other uses for it too.
take the old ones and soak them in amonnia ...put them in a clean plastic jar like a peanut butter jar and shake them by hand ...then rinse them off....be careful the fumes are very strong......its the same thing jewelers do to clean al sorts of metals
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Too many bad experiences with ammonia for me LOL. I'm a chemist. I got myself good at work once. I'd rather play with the xylene I have in the garage. I may pass on the plastic as it turns out I have a dowel of the correct size in the garage and some Git Rot in the cellar. I might cut the pieces, drill them and then dip them in the Git Rot.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Status Update

Well I finally cut my 14 7/8 inch wooden stubs and drilled them all (9/32"). I cut them about 1/8 shorter than the originals, as the originals weren't sealed at the top with anything except varnish. I plan to seal the tops of the stubs to the rails and around the screw heads too. I also countersunk the holes in the rails, sanded and coated the tops of the rails with one more coat of Cetol. The rails look good now, not perfect, but very nice. In particular, the color is now even, which is a good thing as sanded they were two very different shades. They are a bit on the orange side (Cetol) but no big deal.

Some tips for cutting the wooden stubs is to use a fine tooth blade. I just used the ripping blade on my table saw and the angle of the cuts was a little off. That often made the resulting holes off center as even after I switched to a brad point bit. They aren't any worse than those done by S2, so I doubt it will be noticeable.

The ebay guy finally responded with an offer to make the plastic ones for $50. I wish he had responded a week earlier as I certainly would have taken him up on it. I just need to dunk mine in Git Rot, let them dry, finish cleaning the hardware and install.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Re: Status Update

Progress...if you could call it that...finally treated all the wooden stubs with git rot to seal them. Now just need to clean the hard ware and re-install. Been a little busy with other things as 2 of 3 bathrooms are being remodeled and I also fixed two rotted retaining walls.
 
Jan 22, 2008
2
S2 9.2A walker mn MN
I had covers made for the handrails and all other exposed teak 10 years ago. Have yet to need to refinish any of the wood. I forget the cost but it was well worth it.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Could you please post some photos? Especially how they worked them around the uprights and attached them on the ends (perhaps mounted a snap on the end?).

Thanks!

Bob
 
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