We have a Hunter 30T '93 with a Yanmar 2GM20F engine. According to the manual that came with the boat this engine can be hand cranked but I haven't a clue about how to do it. Has anyone tried it? What do you do? Seems like hand cranking would be a good backup in case the battery dies. Also I can't find any zincs on/in the engine yet the book says it has two. Does anybody know about zincs on these engines?
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Gary Scheier
I asked the same
The answer I got is that, if your engine is fresh water cooled, you do not need zincs. Not sure about hand cranking, but there are two decompression levers (one for each cylinder) on the top of the engine. If your battery is low, you can flip these levers up to allow faster cranking, then throw them down while cranking at high speed to compress the fuel to help give it a "push start".
The answer I got is that, if your engine is fresh water cooled, you do not need zincs. Not sure about hand cranking, but there are two decompression levers (one for each cylinder) on the top of the engine. If your battery is low, you can flip these levers up to allow faster cranking, then throw them down while cranking at high speed to compress the fuel to help give it a "push start".
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Bob E.
Hand starting a myth
About 15 years ago I took the CYA Advanced Coastal Cruising course. The boat (a Mirage 33) had a 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel and was equipped with the special crank handle that you use. As an exercise, we all tried to hand start the engine. We could crank it, but we couldn't start it. Even the instructor (a largish man) couldn't start it. (Yes, we knew all about the decompression levers.) Then, about 10 years ago, I bought a new boat with a Volvo single cylinder diesel. The manual said it included the handle. I asked the dealer to supply the handle, and he said that Volvo discontinued the handle because too many people were hurting themselves trying to start the engines. My current H30 does not have a hand starting handle. I believe the reason is that these are very dangerous. The handle is designed with a ramp-like ratchet to engage a socket in the center of the crankshaft pulley, so it will flip off when (ha!) the engine starts. Too often the handle will slip off prematurely, while you are cranking your heart out, and the heavy base flips around. This can either break your forearm, or, if you're really unlucky, your face. Better to be careful about energy management in your batteries (plural -- don't sail with a single battery). If anyone has experience that counters this, I'd like to hear about it. It sure would be nice if you could start a small diesel by hand.
About 15 years ago I took the CYA Advanced Coastal Cruising course. The boat (a Mirage 33) had a 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel and was equipped with the special crank handle that you use. As an exercise, we all tried to hand start the engine. We could crank it, but we couldn't start it. Even the instructor (a largish man) couldn't start it. (Yes, we knew all about the decompression levers.) Then, about 10 years ago, I bought a new boat with a Volvo single cylinder diesel. The manual said it included the handle. I asked the dealer to supply the handle, and he said that Volvo discontinued the handle because too many people were hurting themselves trying to start the engines. My current H30 does not have a hand starting handle. I believe the reason is that these are very dangerous. The handle is designed with a ramp-like ratchet to engage a socket in the center of the crankshaft pulley, so it will flip off when (ha!) the engine starts. Too often the handle will slip off prematurely, while you are cranking your heart out, and the heavy base flips around. This can either break your forearm, or, if you're really unlucky, your face. Better to be careful about energy management in your batteries (plural -- don't sail with a single battery). If anyone has experience that counters this, I'd like to hear about it. It sure would be nice if you could start a small diesel by hand.
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Sam Lust
Crank it
I've seen these engines started by hand. It was in the shop at Mack Boring. It was also the industrial version of this engine with a much bigger flywheel. And the guy was big. Very big. Very very big. He had lots of room to fling elbows around which you likely can't do in a boat. I figured it would be no problem for me, knowing the technique, to start the 2GM in my 33..... WRONG..... As hard as I cranked, once I flipped that compression release the engine just bounced back without even a wheeze. Forgetaboutit! Keep a strong battery!
I've seen these engines started by hand. It was in the shop at Mack Boring. It was also the industrial version of this engine with a much bigger flywheel. And the guy was big. Very big. Very very big. He had lots of room to fling elbows around which you likely can't do in a boat. I figured it would be no problem for me, knowing the technique, to start the 2GM in my 33..... WRONG..... As hard as I cranked, once I flipped that compression release the engine just bounced back without even a wheeze. Forgetaboutit! Keep a strong battery!
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Karl Berntson
I tried
Two weeks ago we were going out for a daysail. When I turned the key the engine turned over once and that was it. I determined that the starter was shot. It got extremly hot. Pulled out the crank handle figuring I can start this think. Wrong! Pull the compression release, crank your heart out, release the the compression release, cranking stops. First, you bang your knuckels and then you don't have enough power to continue cranking against the compression anyway. So, we didn't get to sail that day. Our friendly maechanic has promised to have the new starter installed when we get back from vacation in Venice from where I'm writing this note. Keep the batteries charge and don't attempt to crank. If I can't crank a single cylinder, I can't imagine how anybody would crank a two or three cylinder engine. Happy Sailing Karl
Two weeks ago we were going out for a daysail. When I turned the key the engine turned over once and that was it. I determined that the starter was shot. It got extremly hot. Pulled out the crank handle figuring I can start this think. Wrong! Pull the compression release, crank your heart out, release the the compression release, cranking stops. First, you bang your knuckels and then you don't have enough power to continue cranking against the compression anyway. So, we didn't get to sail that day. Our friendly maechanic has promised to have the new starter installed when we get back from vacation in Venice from where I'm writing this note. Keep the batteries charge and don't attempt to crank. If I can't crank a single cylinder, I can't imagine how anybody would crank a two or three cylinder engine. Happy Sailing Karl
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C. Caddell
yes you can...
for almost 9 months while we sorted out an elusive electrical problem that kept the batteries drained, we routinely hand cranked a mid-size Volvo diesel in a Beneteau First 35.5. Make sure that the ignition key is turned on! Hold the compression lever open and the engine should spin easily. Don't try to spin it at warp speed, just get it going and let the flywheel take over. Release the compression lever and pull the handle toward you. As for the zincs, I know that on the samller Yanmars, the look like a bolt head sticking out of the side of the block. There is usually a diamond-shaped plate w/gasket and two small screws holding it on. I've heard these referred to as "pencil zincs," and I can assure you that you need them even in fresh water. Granted, galvanic corrosion is slower in fresh water, but it is still there. Your neighbor in the next slip could have a serious electrical "leak" and you would not know it.
for almost 9 months while we sorted out an elusive electrical problem that kept the batteries drained, we routinely hand cranked a mid-size Volvo diesel in a Beneteau First 35.5. Make sure that the ignition key is turned on! Hold the compression lever open and the engine should spin easily. Don't try to spin it at warp speed, just get it going and let the flywheel take over. Release the compression lever and pull the handle toward you. As for the zincs, I know that on the samller Yanmars, the look like a bolt head sticking out of the side of the block. There is usually a diamond-shaped plate w/gasket and two small screws holding it on. I've heard these referred to as "pencil zincs," and I can assure you that you need them even in fresh water. Granted, galvanic corrosion is slower in fresh water, but it is still there. Your neighbor in the next slip could have a serious electrical "leak" and you would not know it.
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Carl Senos
Sometimes you can!
I've been successful several times with handcranking my single cylinder Yanmar. Yeah, I've banged my arms up, and I wouldn't encourage trying just to go out for a daysail. But there are desperate times. I'm sure someone will tell me why this isn't a good idea, but I carry a can of starter fluid (for gas or diesel engines), just for emergencies. It doesn't seem to have caused any damage yet. A two second squirt and using the decompression lever usually works. Also, don't forget that you can use your decompression lever with a weak battery. I've hooked mine up with a cable to the cockpit.
I've been successful several times with handcranking my single cylinder Yanmar. Yeah, I've banged my arms up, and I wouldn't encourage trying just to go out for a daysail. But there are desperate times. I'm sure someone will tell me why this isn't a good idea, but I carry a can of starter fluid (for gas or diesel engines), just for emergencies. It doesn't seem to have caused any damage yet. A two second squirt and using the decompression lever usually works. Also, don't forget that you can use your decompression lever with a weak battery. I've hooked mine up with a cable to the cockpit.
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