Hampton, VA

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Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I spent a pleasant day in the Piankatank River anchored in a slight cove about three miles up from Fishing Bay . It was well sheltered from the strong southerly wind that beat me up so badly getting there. I took the boat into the Fishing Bay Marina for fuel and ice and returned to find that the weather the next day would be just slightly better, lighter in the afternoon, and then turn worse for the following days . All three of us anchored there decided to move on at dawn.
The day started a repeat of the leg from Reedville but I knew the winds were easing instead of strengthening so I didn’t push so hard. No body slams or submarine simulations. It was actually pleasant by the time Hampton Roads came into sight. I had gotten advice about dealing with the heavy traffic in the area but it was like a scene from that cable show “After People”. I saw just one sailboat off in the distance and one small powerboat .

It decided on the way down to bypass Point Comfort where the other two boats were headed because I was going to get together with forumite Buck in Hampton the next day. He advised that it would be more comfortable. I took a tour in and out for future reference but was glad I was going on. Good thing I took his advice because, with my usual luck, I got the last anchoring spot in Hampton. Buck took me to lunch at the yacht club and we plan to meet again further down the ditch as he is leaving after me but planning to move faster.

Hampton is one of the most boater friendly waterfronts I have encountered. The only drawback is that there are only 3 - 4 anchor spots but there are plenty of public dock slips. Unlike many places I’ve been and heard about, people who anchor are not second class citizens. The dockmaster treats you exactly the same, you can use the laundry, showers, and other facilities. I took my waste oil in and he said, “Just set it right there.” I asked how much and he said they don’t charge. Unheard of. This is a city that is doing it right.

I’ve met a couple from New York who have just taken up the cruising life and we have really hit it off. We towed my dinghy with their outboard inflatable down to where we could walk to the food store and returned loaded with supplies. I then cooked them my famous chicken pasta dish. While I was waiting for them to arrive I sat comfortably in the cockpit in a tee shirt watching the sun go down. It was 68 degrees in the cabin with the heater turned off while we ate.

The rude but not unexpected awakening was at midnight when I was rousted from bed by strong winds and heavy rain. My friends started to drag down on me and had to re-anchor and I was up for quite a while watching mine. It could have been worse. Lines of thunderstorms could just be seen and heard to the north.

We woke in the morning to cold rain and wind. To be ready to leave this morning, we did the tug and barge thing again with five jerry cans in pretty miserable conditions. They returned again last evening for a reconstituted and modified version of the leftovers.

They are also first timers on the ICW but there are two of them so one can steer and the other read the guidebooks. We’re going to travel in company for awhile and they will handle the bridge radio traffic which will make my life easier. If we’re not too cold when we get to Hospital Point, we plan to go on and tie up at the first lock in the Dismal Swamp so as to make the first locking and get to the visitors center. It is closed Sunday and Monday this time of year and we both want to see it.
 

Jimm

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Jan 22, 2008
372
Hunter 33.5 Bodkin Creek - Bodkin YC
Looks like you will have cleaerr and warmer sailing (er... motoring) for the next few days -- enjoy!
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Looks like you will have cleaerr and warmer sailing (er... motoring) for the next few days -- enjoy!
There was fairly thick ice on the docks this morning although not on my decks. The cabin heater is keeping me pretty warm.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Ah yes, waiting for the Dismal Swamp lock, one of my favorite memories. We dinghied over to shore and walked to town for groceries. We bypassed the visitor's center rather than raft up although we were invited to. We tied up at the south lock wall. We had to make a rope ladder to get over the wall. There was a gas station with a little diner. We didn't stop in Elizabeth City, wish we had as I later learned.
 

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Apr 22, 2001
497
Hunter 420 Norfolk, VA
This past Wednesday, I had the pleasure of meeting and spending the afternoon with one of the most innovative and self reliant sailors I've ever run across.

It takes quite a bit of daring to singlehand a small, open cockpit, sail boat down the entire Eastern seaboard (for the first time),at anytime, much less do it in the increasingly cold weather of Nov. and Dec.
But, if anyone can do it with style and resourcefulness,... AND relate it to us with great prose, it's Rodger.

I will be trying to catch up with him on the ICW sometime during the days after Thanksgiving; but, he can move pretty quickly when he gets the urge.

God Speed, Rodger, keep the diesel heater going, so that, if I'm lucky, I can say ... " permission to come aboard and warm up".
 

Tom J

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Sep 30, 2008
2,325
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
You'll enjoy the Dismal Swamp, Roger. Quiet, easy motoring for a couple of days, like coasting along through a green tunnel. Be prepared, though, if there is a boat ahead of you with a fairly deep draft, you will probably occasionally feel a bump on the keel as snags are dislodged from the bottom of the canal. We were slightly unnerved the first time this happened, and reported the incident to the crew clearing the waterway, but after the 12th or 13th time, we stopped worrying. We did slow down, though, to give the snags a chance to sink, and to lessen the impact.
Before we transited the canal, we had anchored up at the north lock along with six other boats. One of the skippers came on deck with bagpipes and treated us all to a medley of classic bagpiping tunes. When it was time to enter the lock the lock keeper signaled us by blowing on a conch shell. He had a great sense of humor, and made lining up and entering the lock fun. He's pretty well known, and hopefully you will get to meet him.
Rafting up at the visitor's center was a great experiance. All the skippers helped the new arrivals tie up, and each raft-up held an impromtu get-together in the middle boat. All together, we had 11 boats there overnight, and many of us met up again time and again on the trip south.
If you can, stop in at Elizabeth City. The dockage is free, and the town welcomes boaters. The restaurants are reasonable and the markets are a short walk away. Great place to wait out a weather window for Albermarle Soound. Have a fun and safe trip.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
He's pretty well known, and hopefully you will get to meet him.
We did. After the lock came level we sat there on our boats for a good part of an hour while he went on and on in the most entertaining way about the history of the canal and the area. The sun was setting, the fall colors are at their peak, the sky was clear, we were enraptured.
 
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