halyards new and used

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joe phibbs

ok, we just bought a new main and genoa for our 1986 Hunter 31: ka-ching, ka-ching. Now we notice that the main halyard is deteriorating fast (when held up close to our sqeaky-clean new mainsail) and the main sheet is woefully worn. Both lines are 17 years old. So while shopping at West Marine for 7/16" main sheet, I noticed a package of 7/16" line 110ft. long, with the shackle already woven into the end of the line. The main sheet is a done-deal. I learned last week how to bend the new halyard onto and into and through the mast. Now for the question: option #1: drop ANOTHER $240+ on a 1/2" main halyard 140' long, that has the nice new shackle already sewn onto the end #2 drop ANOTHER $ 175 on a 7/16" 110' main halyard that has a nice new shackle already sewn onto the end or #3 buy 110' of 7/16" line (I think that is all we really need for the 40' mast up and down, plus the 12 feet from base of mast to cockpit) and use the old, servicable shackle from the old halyard amd spend only (ha-ha) $115.00 or #4 buy 110' of modular replacement 1/2" line, use the old shackle and spend $135. #5 wait until the main halyard really, really is ready to snap. Is there extra pressure/weight on system with super delux new sail? We aint made of money but we dont want to waste $ on something that won't work, i.e., is there any harm in using 7/16 as opposed to 1/2 line on halyard? Also, any suggestions on type of knot to tie onto old shackle, if that is what we end up doing? Our wallets await your wisdom. joe
 
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Jeff D

Try this!

First of all, do not increase the diameter of the original halyard. Odds are it will bind and you will end up having to pull your mainsail down. Yopu will not be happy. Go to Sailnet and you can get a 7/16th, 115ft main halyard with shackle for $99.00 including shiping and no tax if you do not live in their homne state.
 
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Don Alexander

End For End??

Joe, Us skinflints in the UK often "end for end" our existing halyards because the wear is normally only at the end attached to the sail, so after the operation, this part is not in use when the sail is up.
 
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Skipper

Skip's Halyards...Photo and a How to Explaination

Hello Joe, Want to see how I do the ends on my halyards??? I have a photo of the halyards I did on my Luger 26. Come take a look! Just click the Related Link below to Skip's South Coast Yachts! Included is a short explaination of how to do it.
 
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Miles

Ummm... Skipper?

Surely you splice your halyards before you whip them? right? The photo looks like they are just wrapped with whipping and not spliced back into the line anywhere. Or perhaps this is a special technique you invented on Lake Yucky Mucky... P.S. I enjoy your posts but you certainly have shaken things up around here!
 
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Skipper

No Need

no need Mike! I learned this technique from an old sailor who has since past away. It has worked for me now since 1985. They have never once come loose or even shown signs of coming loose. give it a try! If anything, just do one halyard to try it out. Skipper P.S. I am glad you enjoy my company!
 
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Miles

Whipping has the tensile strength of dental floss

I glad it's worked out for you but really the "right" way to do that is to splice the line and just have the whipping there to keep the splice from creeping out. I'm sure you know that but I wouldn't want anyone to get the wrong idea from looking at that. P.S. Phil runs a very nice site here. Just play by the rules and we'll all be happier. There's lots of other unmoderated message boards that you can post on if you want. I get a chuckle from your posts but take it easy...
 
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skipper

Miles is correct

HI miles, You are probably right...for safety sake, you probably should run the whipping through the line or brade it. But is works fine this way too. I have several sailor friends that do it this way and since there is flex in the line, the line will not pull out. But I guess you are right,,,for safety sake at least, braid the line as miles suggests. Miles, no, that is not right. It is wrong to delete posts unless there is a really good reason for it. And this is wrong. Phil will e mail me off to the side and ask me to even delete messages on my site. I have never done this and never will unless some one posts something that will obviously harm the site...like posting nudity or things like that. No, this is wrong. As for me posting too often...give me a break....that is like asking someone who is talkative to stop talking in front of a group. If I happen to like to talk, that is me! And If I want to show my friends a serious movie of me enjoying the water, it is up to me to post it. And no one should take it down and put it in a humor message board. It is not a funny movie. And I am breaking no rules by posting it.
 
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Dave Shore

Just bought em

Bought them from Sailnet, 115' with shackel already done, $120. complete, no shipping put them on the other day. Great workmanship on the shackels and line. This was the best way to go for me.
 
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Ed Allen

halyards

These photos show a great job and im sure the splice will last quite some time. I am concerned however about the shackles, those shown dont appear to be anywhere near strong enough for halyards.
 
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David Foster

Lashing versus splicing

Most of us are quite familiar with spliced eyes, created by weaving the rope back into itself. Splicing a three strand rope is a relatively easy procedure that requires some care, and attention to detail. The technique also works for more strands, with the difficulty and attention to detail rising. It results in a loop with 90 percent of the strength of the line, versus knots that detract 60 to 70 percent of the line strength. Skipper's technique looks like lashing - using strong, thin twine to tie rope to itself, fittings, or other hardware. There was an interesting article in a recent sail mag on the subject, saying that lashing offers flexibility, and strength in several high tech applications. But I don't know anything about lashing. I wonder if there is a reference telling us more about skipper's technique, or other lashing solutions. I'm curious about the strength reduction versus knots or splicing. This could be an interesting alternative. David Lady Lillie
 
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