Halyard Replacement
- Thread starter Lee Y
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What I did......
was to cut the eye splice end off of the old halyard, make a bitter end, and sew the two lines together(end-to-end) with nylon thread (so it is flexable) and then just pulled the new halyard into place, with the new eye attached to the main sail, and whal-ah...a new halyard. DON"T forget to attach the new line FIRST.
was to cut the eye splice end off of the old halyard, make a bitter end, and sew the two lines together(end-to-end) with nylon thread (so it is flexable) and then just pulled the new halyard into place, with the new eye attached to the main sail, and whal-ah...a new halyard. DON"T forget to attach the new line FIRST.
sail thread
We used sail thread and butted the ends of the old and new halyards together then raised the halyard and pulled the new one through. Have done it twice now and it works like a charm.
We used sail thread and butted the ends of the old and new halyards together then raised the halyard and pulled the new one through. Have done it twice now and it works like a charm.
Be careful how you join old and new
The halyard exit at the masthead is VERY narrow and if the connection between the old and new lines is larger in diameter than the line, you run a good chance of jamming the connection in the masthead. I used a red-hot coat hanger to melt a hole near the end of each line from one side to the other (diameter). I then used the same wire to round the ends of the lines and melt two longitudinal grooves from the diameter holes to the ends. Both halyards were then tied together using light nylon twine, leaving a gap of about 1/4" of slack between. The twine laid in the grooves and didn't protrude, while the knot in the nylon line fit in the space between the two halyard ends. One more thing...things go a lot smoother if you maintain a little tension on the new halyard as you pull it up and over the masthead sheave. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
The halyard exit at the masthead is VERY narrow and if the connection between the old and new lines is larger in diameter than the line, you run a good chance of jamming the connection in the masthead. I used a red-hot coat hanger to melt a hole near the end of each line from one side to the other (diameter). I then used the same wire to round the ends of the lines and melt two longitudinal grooves from the diameter holes to the ends. Both halyards were then tied together using light nylon twine, leaving a gap of about 1/4" of slack between. The twine laid in the grooves and didn't protrude, while the knot in the nylon line fit in the space between the two halyard ends. One more thing...things go a lot smoother if you maintain a little tension on the new halyard as you pull it up and over the masthead sheave. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Small tie wrap
I've used a small tie wrap to join the butted ends of old and new. The wrap is stiff enough to push through the line and flexible enough to make it through the block. Fair winds, Tom
I've used a small tie wrap to join the butted ends of old and new. The wrap is stiff enough to push through the line and flexible enough to make it through the block. Fair winds, Tom
Dental Floss
I've replaced the main and jib halyards using dental floss and electrical tape. I melted small holes through the new and old halyards with a small drill bit running in REVERSE. Very important that you be in reverse... I threaded dental floss through the holes several times then tied it off tight between the two halyards. A single wrap with black plastic electrical tape to hold her tight and it held very well with no issues rolling over the sheaves. I did the same thing to pull new lines through my boom.
I've replaced the main and jib halyards using dental floss and electrical tape. I melted small holes through the new and old halyards with a small drill bit running in REVERSE. Very important that you be in reverse... I threaded dental floss through the holes several times then tied it off tight between the two halyards. A single wrap with black plastic electrical tape to hold her tight and it held very well with no issues rolling over the sheaves. I did the same thing to pull new lines through my boom.
Duct tape is good
since it is no good for duct work, use about a six inch length and wrap it lengthwise around both lines. Do not leave it on too long or it will really stick. If you are picky maybe you can find some stainsless marine grade duct tape.
since it is no good for duct work, use about a six inch length and wrap it lengthwise around both lines. Do not leave it on too long or it will really stick. If you are picky maybe you can find some stainsless marine grade duct tape.
The easiest way.
Lee: This is the easiest way I have found to replace halyards. We did several of them in just a few minutes each. It is also safe. A metal connection, with a little rigging tape. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73112378230&fno=17
Lee: This is the easiest way I have found to replace halyards. We did several of them in just a few minutes each. It is also safe. A metal connection, with a little rigging tape. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73112378230&fno=17
sail thread and electrical tape
I use sail thread and a couple wraps of electrical tape, thats the way I have done my halyards, and also my mainsheet, being a h34 it all runs back to the cockpit and ran it through every pulley without any problems.
I use sail thread and a couple wraps of electrical tape, thats the way I have done my halyards, and also my mainsheet, being a h34 it all runs back to the cockpit and ran it through every pulley without any problems.
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