Pretty basic questions here. I am progressively doing more and more DIY on my boat. I am learning it is easier to ask questions and avoid mistakes. I plan to change my 20 year old main sail halyard and jib halyard. Jib is roller furling and main sail is not. I am a day sailor/cruiser. First question, I was considering New England Ropes Sta-Set but looked in the forum archives and am now considering using the Sailboat Owners store. They use Samson XL S3. It seems for my sailing the Samson XL S3 is fine. Opinions? Second question, Sailboat Owners store will splice in a shackle and whip one end. The boat is a Beneteau 323, main halyard runs in the mast and cleats aft to the cockpit. If I didn't have them splice in a shackle I would have just whipped both ends of my line and sewn and taped the original halyard to the new halyard, pulled in through the clutch in the cockpit enter the base of the mast, run in the mast and out the top of the mast then attached a shackle with a halyard knot and be done. If I purchase the halyard with the shackle spliced in already it would mean I reverse the process? Remove the shackle from the old halyard, sew the whipped end to the old halyard and then as I pull the old halyard out through the clutch the new halyard would be entering the mast at the top and following in mast to the base and back to the cockpit. Am I likely to run into more trouble ( jam a sheave or jump off a sheave) as my new line will being entering via the top of the mast as opposed to the base of the mast? As I read this it sounds confusing but the halyard ends up rigged correctly either way. The issue is the same with the jib halyard, with a shackle spliced (reversing the process). Thanks for reading this and hope I haven't confused everyone.
halyard questions
- Thread starter Mike8193
- Start date
I highly recommend using the SBO store. I used them for my halyards a couple years back and their price was excellent and service as well.
Your choice of line is fine. Running the halyard in either direction I've never seen matter. I prefer using a halyard knot rather than a hard splice as it's easier to redo if needed. But that's your choice.
dj
Your choice of line is fine. Running the halyard in either direction I've never seen matter. I prefer using a halyard knot rather than a hard splice as it's easier to redo if needed. But that's your choice.
dj
Sewing the end of the old halyard neatly to the new one should avoid any problems with the sheave(s) at the top of the mast. Like @dLj we used a knot to attach the shackle and sewed that too.
I upgraded our OEM dacron halyards to New England T-900, over 20 years ago. They are still in "new" condition. 8 mm for main, jib, and spinn. Great great product, and they hold in our Lewmar D2 clutches.
Personally I would never advise Sta-set or start-setX. Too much stretch.
I use a "halyard Knot" on each one to secure the business end to a shackle, and this makes it pretty easy to reverse the halyard every couple years when they are brought down (with the use of tag lines) for laundering.
The B-323 model displaces over a thousand # less than our boat, so the line strength and diameter (for handling) should not be an issue at all.
Of course, this is all "IMHO."
Personally I would never advise Sta-set or start-setX. Too much stretch.
I use a "halyard Knot" on each one to secure the business end to a shackle, and this makes it pretty easy to reverse the halyard every couple years when they are brought down (with the use of tag lines) for laundering.
The B-323 model displaces over a thousand # less than our boat, so the line strength and diameter (for handling) should not be an issue at all.
Of course, this is all "IMHO."
I buy the line with not wipped ends. To put the line through, I pull the outer cover back 6" exposing the inners. Then cut off the inner core. Then fold over the cover to on itself and sew it. Do the same to your old halyard. Then run your waxed sewing line several times through the ends that you just made. This makes a flexible hinge. Then pull upwards through the mast and let it drop down from outside. Cut the end and wipe. Put it through the shackle and tie a bowline and sew the extra length to the halyard. Then wipe the cockpit end and tie a figure 8, you are done.
Higher performance rope is not much more than old polyester, and your sails will benefit from it. Stay away from StaSet and particularly StaSetX.
Consider upgrading to Samson's MLX3, Robline's Globe Pro, or NER's Viper. If 3/8" isn't too big, here is a great deal on a high performance SK78 core line: AMSTEEL II PLUS ROPE | Tallman Equipment Company
One advantage is splicing these core-dependent lines is much easier than double braid polyester.
Mark
Consider upgrading to Samson's MLX3, Robline's Globe Pro, or NER's Viper. If 3/8" isn't too big, here is a great deal on a high performance SK78 core line: AMSTEEL II PLUS ROPE | Tallman Equipment Company
One advantage is splicing these core-dependent lines is much easier than double braid polyester.
Mark