Halyard deck blocks

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Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
I am trying to figure out the best way to lead the halyards aft on this Hunter 25 Mk I ('bubble-top'/flush deck version). There are two things I am sort of mad at which make it troublesome. 1. The mast is stepped on top of the rounded storm hood piece. Now I know there is nothing but fibreglass-on-fibreglass right underneath the step; it was engineered that way (and would have caved in otherwise). But immediately aft of the mast the domed storm hood rises up, necessitating that anything drilled through it must pass through a void-- a void I cannot inspect without removing the whole storm hood first. So I have NO idea how strong through-bolting anything in that region will be. 2. The halyard cheek blocks have to mount on top of the cool-looking wrap-around coaming/spray rail. I have not come up with a good way to mount these things on top of the compound curves of the rail. The PO had put merely bullseyses on it, but I would like to lead the halyards directly from the deck blocks on an angle across the storm hood to the top of the rail, and this means multi-sheave cheek blocks. I suppose in both these cases I can just drill these through and see where they come out underneath, and fashion something to take the flat washers or backing plates there; but I'd prefer seeing someone else's solutiuon(s) first. I have messed around with a few other problems on this boat, so if anyone can offer some info maybe I have a few answers on something else to respond with. Thanks. J Cherubini II jcomet@aol.com
 
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David Foster

Cheek blocks on the mast?

I'm not sure if this will help, John, but we did not mount the first turning blocks on the deck of our '77 h27. Instead, my rigger let me dig around in his cast-off bin where I found two stainless blocks with curved teak mounting cheeks. We drilled and tapped holes in the mast (above the boot/step inside) and mounted one block below and forward of the other. The lines come down the mast, and then off these blocks to an organizer with two pullies outboard of the hatch slide on the starboard side. Then they go back to clutches, a winch, and a cleat in line, and within easy reach of the cockpit. I wonder if this might help you run the lines over the bubble to a better mounting point for the organizer blocks. By the way, all the hardware is bolted through the cabin top and liner to the cabin below, where they tie into a nice cherry plank, on which we mounted a teak handrail that works great in the cabin underway. I'm not sure if any of this will help, since I can't really visualize the curvy shapes you describe! David Lady Lillie
 
Jan 22, 2008
275
Hunter 33_77-83 Lake Lanier GA
Hey John, can you do a picture of your deck...

I'm trying to picture it as you have described it. Not sure I can add anything.. but it will make me feel included.. I'm about to add turning block, rope clutch and winch to port side of my boat... would we be dealing with something simular.
 
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Ed Schenck

Picture.

If the Related Link is like John's boat then you can see his problem. Not much cabintop to work with there. Raises the question why? My H37C has all the lines at the mast. They work so easily from there. My mainsheet used to go forward and back. I even removed that. I have all the hardware to move them back but I really like my clean decks. Still considering the halyard for safety reasons.
 
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David Foster

Early "racing" 25

I looked in the photos of h25's. JC, is your h25 like the one at this link? If so, it is quite different than the later designs (which are similar to our h27.) David Lady Lillie
 
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