Just wanted to thank Richard Shelby for his photo essay. On the "Photo Forum" are pictures of his H37C water tank project. Why would you do the starboard side differently Richard? How would you put a top back on the aluminum tank after epoxying the inside? Next we will see Ron Pearson's tank project in the "Photo Forum" I hope. Remember that Ron is building new tanks from plywood.
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My suggestion for the tank top
I would not cement it down...you never know when you'll have to take the top off. I'd screw it down, with a rubber gasket to seal it.
I would not cement it down...you never know when you'll have to take the top off. I'd screw it down, with a rubber gasket to seal it.
starboard tank
Ed: Cutting the top off and grinding the baffles out were a B...ch. I don't have the inclination to do that again. In retrospect, sealing the old tank would have been easier. I hope the starboard tank falls into that category. At least I will have something with which to compare when I attack the other tank. If I had to reseal the port tank, I think a screwed-down and gasketed fiberglass or plywood (glassed) or aluminum top would work. If the cheap-o plastimo baldder starts leaking, that can be "plan B".
Ed: Cutting the top off and grinding the baffles out were a B...ch. I don't have the inclination to do that again. In retrospect, sealing the old tank would have been easier. I hope the starboard tank falls into that category. At least I will have something with which to compare when I attack the other tank. If I had to reseal the port tank, I think a screwed-down and gasketed fiberglass or plywood (glassed) or aluminum top would work. If the cheap-o plastimo baldder starts leaking, that can be "plan B".
tanks tops
This is about the water tank type, not the one your lady wears! I've put cleanouts in all my tanks, and as long as you leave a flange around the top, you can do it like I did. Just cut a piece of flat aluminum of about .050" or thicker, about an inch bigger all around than your hole. Drill and tap 10-32 holes all around about every 1", then seal with silicone. This cuts through numerous tries and experiments I've made, which includes several type of sealers and backing plates (not really needed), and the screw in deck plates (they WILL leak!). Good luck.
This is about the water tank type, not the one your lady wears! I've put cleanouts in all my tanks, and as long as you leave a flange around the top, you can do it like I did. Just cut a piece of flat aluminum of about .050" or thicker, about an inch bigger all around than your hole. Drill and tap 10-32 holes all around about every 1", then seal with silicone. This cuts through numerous tries and experiments I've made, which includes several type of sealers and backing plates (not really needed), and the screw in deck plates (they WILL leak!). Good luck.
Thanks guys.
Figure my tanks(1979) will start to leak about halfway out the Erie Canal. Maybe I should have the materials with me? At least I will have plenty of time to make a good repair.
Figure my tanks(1979) will start to leak about halfway out the Erie Canal. Maybe I should have the materials with me? At least I will have plenty of time to make a good repair.
another thought
I was just thinking about what I wrote, and what I said certainly applies to the fuel tanks. However, thinking back, if you are only opening the water tank to put in a cleanout and can get by with a small hole (difficult to do the patching through, but probably possible) you can get away with the screw in type deck plates. You will have slight leaking if you pressure test it, but I still have them in my water tank. What I do is keep some silicone paste (the stuff you use on o-rings and such, try a scuba shop) and keep the seals lubricated. That way they tighten better and seal pretty well, good enough for the water tanks. The other advantage is you can quickly and easily get inside to clean, inspect, see how full they are (get the clear screw in part and you can usually just look) or even fill them from jugs, which can be a benefit in some places.
I was just thinking about what I wrote, and what I said certainly applies to the fuel tanks. However, thinking back, if you are only opening the water tank to put in a cleanout and can get by with a small hole (difficult to do the patching through, but probably possible) you can get away with the screw in type deck plates. You will have slight leaking if you pressure test it, but I still have them in my water tank. What I do is keep some silicone paste (the stuff you use on o-rings and such, try a scuba shop) and keep the seals lubricated. That way they tighten better and seal pretty well, good enough for the water tanks. The other advantage is you can quickly and easily get inside to clean, inspect, see how full they are (get the clear screw in part and you can usually just look) or even fill them from jugs, which can be a benefit in some places.
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