H37C salon sole repair.

[Ed Schenck]

Noticed Sandpiper's comments about his sole "replacement" on his previous boat, an H33. Did not want to hijack that H27 thread. I am curious about what we will see if we pull up the sole on the H37C. The only pictures that I know of are here: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7532&page=article&mn=37-cutter . So it looks like it must be 1/4" in order to match up with that bilge cover. And Bill, you would just paint the f/g? How would you deal with the lip on the bilge covers?

I remember a few owners who opened up the sole near the edges and found lots of storage space like Rainbow Chaser: http://austinsailor.net/flrlkr.html . Unfortunately Gene never added the pictures.

 

[sandpiper10471]

"the lip on the bilge covers" I assume means the raised area surrounding and flush with the top of the t&h sole. Actually, I taped that off and used it as the edge of the painted area. Looked pretty good. I used a rubberlike paint called Deckolay from Holland Marine in Toronto. Unfortunately, they are unable to obtain that paint any more. Too bad. It cleaned reasonably well, was easy and non-toxic to work with and made a great non-skid.
If I have photos, they are in print form and not readily accessible. Sold the boat before digital cameras and laptops were mainstream.

 

[sandpiper10471]

OK - a bit of memory, rethinking and looking at the above link's photos. The t&h sole of the 33 did not extend out to the settees but was surrounded by a margin of glass and gelcoat. On the 37C, the t&h comes right up to the settee sides. The bilge cover on the 33 was one solid plywood board which had an aluminum "t" rail trimming it. The outside edge of the T sat on the t&H. When the wooden sole was removed, the bilge cover just sat a bit lower. 3/8" I think. The bilge covers on the 37 sit on a shelf recessed into the glass sole mold. Therefore, if one were to do the same painting treatment on the 37C, those cover pieces would have to be planed down by the thickness of the original sole in order to retain the flush effect. Additionally, some of those big stringers running underneath them would also need to be trimmed.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Well you really couldn't plane those bilge covers because that would remove the veneer. So I think if you were to paint then you would remove the plywood from the covers as well. But I think I would just install a new 1/4" floor. Not sure, real or faux. My only bad section is right in front of the stove. And not much there. I have always had wall-to-wall carpet in the salon with holes at the bilge. And under that the sole has remained pretty nice. In twelve years I have not done anything but clean it.