Yesterday, while searching the Forum Archives for some SSB info, I ran across a December 2000 post. I had forgotten how extensive the refit was of Dave Simpson's H37C. A generator and two watermakers! It's a long read in Related Link but with many good ideas. I thought the Cherubini forum needed an H37C kick.
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SSB Help.
Hi Ed, the search was to find what model of Yaesu radio Dave was using(FT757GX). I have been tracking several ICOM, Kenwood, Yaesu, etc. radios on E-Bay but have not jumped in yet. I think you answered this for me before but what is your rig?
Hi Ed, the search was to find what model of Yaesu radio Dave was using(FT757GX). I have been tracking several ICOM, Kenwood, Yaesu, etc. radios on E-Bay but have not jumped in yet. I think you answered this for me before but what is your rig?
H37C Kick
You're right, Ed - things have been kinda quiet on the 37C front...I finally got down to the boatyard today (its been quite a winter in Nova Scotia) and got some measurements for wind vane self-steering that I'm planning for this spring. Another item that is planned is replacing all the portlights, probably with Gray or Bomar - metal is not in the budget. Your talk of SSB got me to thinking of the rewiring I did last spring. I've only got one or two photos handy, but I'll publish some more later. Basically, I moved the 'house bank' (3 x Gr. 24) to under the cabin sole, left a Gr. 28 in the Stbd. locker for engine starting and put in lots of new heavy duty marine wire. Battery leads are now #2AWG (instead of the orginal #4AWG) and the feed to the circuit breaker panel was upped to #6AWG from #10AWG. Heavier wiring is definitely a must if you are installing a SSB as these units can draw 30 amps+ on transmit. I also re-worked the breaker panel to make it easier to service and more reliable. Most importantly, I added an 80 amp fuse immediately after the battery switch on the run to the breaker panel (ABYC mandates this). I also ran two #2AWG wires to the bow for the new windlas installation (SL Horizon 1500). This year I will add a 1750 watt inverter. Ah, spring!
You're right, Ed - things have been kinda quiet on the 37C front...I finally got down to the boatyard today (its been quite a winter in Nova Scotia) and got some measurements for wind vane self-steering that I'm planning for this spring. Another item that is planned is replacing all the portlights, probably with Gray or Bomar - metal is not in the budget. Your talk of SSB got me to thinking of the rewiring I did last spring. I've only got one or two photos handy, but I'll publish some more later. Basically, I moved the 'house bank' (3 x Gr. 24) to under the cabin sole, left a Gr. 28 in the Stbd. locker for engine starting and put in lots of new heavy duty marine wire. Battery leads are now #2AWG (instead of the orginal #4AWG) and the feed to the circuit breaker panel was upped to #6AWG from #10AWG. Heavier wiring is definitely a must if you are installing a SSB as these units can draw 30 amps+ on transmit. I also re-worked the breaker panel to make it easier to service and more reliable. Most importantly, I added an 80 amp fuse immediately after the battery switch on the run to the breaker panel (ABYC mandates this). I also ran two #2AWG wires to the bow for the new windlas installation (SL Horizon 1500). This year I will add a 1750 watt inverter. Ah, spring!
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37 REFIT
Nice electrical panel work. Please explain why you installed the 80 amp fuse. BTW ABYC cannot mandate only recommend.
Nice electrical panel work. Please explain why you installed the 80 amp fuse. BTW ABYC cannot mandate only recommend.
Rig is
An ICOM 706 MKIIG been opened up to take advantage of the great coverage of frequencies...Have it programed for all the common Winlink frqs as well as all the net frqs that i use..Marine SSB frqs are also programed in, just in case, becuase everyone knows that it isn't a "legal" unit to use there...Tuner is an SGC, bolted to the rudder "bench" in the lazzaret, and insulated backstay..Grounding system is bronze screening in the "wetted lockers" and strapping, along with the dynaplate that the previous owner had...System works well..
An ICOM 706 MKIIG been opened up to take advantage of the great coverage of frequencies...Have it programed for all the common Winlink frqs as well as all the net frqs that i use..Marine SSB frqs are also programed in, just in case, becuase everyone knows that it isn't a "legal" unit to use there...Tuner is an SGC, bolted to the rudder "bench" in the lazzaret, and insulated backstay..Grounding system is bronze screening in the "wetted lockers" and strapping, along with the dynaplate that the previous owner had...System works well..
ABYC "suggests"
David, ABYC "suggests": E-9.11.1 Overcurrent Protection Device location - Ungrounded conductors shall be provided with overcurrent protection within a distance of 7 inches (175mm) of the point at which the conductor is connected to the source of power measured along the conductor. EXCEPTIONS: 1. Cranking motor conductors. Since the battery switch is part of the cranking motor conductors, the wires to it don't need to be fused (Large fuses of this sort are expensive, but would be nice to have...)The feed to the breaker panel SHOULD be protected, since it can carry enough current to start a serious fire if it were to short out between the battery switch and the main breaker. In the case of the Hunter 37C, the original route for these wires was right across the top of the aluminum diesel tank - another good reason for the fuse. 80 amps just happens to be the required size for the #6AWG wire I used. My fuse is a blade-type automotive style fuse (cheap and widely available). This fuse in the feed to the panel was not industry standard practice when the boats were built, but I believe it is now.
David, ABYC "suggests": E-9.11.1 Overcurrent Protection Device location - Ungrounded conductors shall be provided with overcurrent protection within a distance of 7 inches (175mm) of the point at which the conductor is connected to the source of power measured along the conductor. EXCEPTIONS: 1. Cranking motor conductors. Since the battery switch is part of the cranking motor conductors, the wires to it don't need to be fused (Large fuses of this sort are expensive, but would be nice to have...)The feed to the breaker panel SHOULD be protected, since it can carry enough current to start a serious fire if it were to short out between the battery switch and the main breaker. In the case of the Hunter 37C, the original route for these wires was right across the top of the aluminum diesel tank - another good reason for the fuse. 80 amps just happens to be the required size for the #6AWG wire I used. My fuse is a blade-type automotive style fuse (cheap and widely available). This fuse in the feed to the panel was not industry standard practice when the boats were built, but I believe it is now.
Jim
Thanks for the explaination. Do you know why in the diagrams for ABYC E-9.11 they say 7" or 40" maximum? Does this mean that if the switch is within this distance from the panel no protection is required? Obviously I am not an electrician but would like to update my boat to meet recommendations.
Thanks for the explaination. Do you know why in the diagrams for ABYC E-9.11 they say 7" or 40" maximum? Does this mean that if the switch is within this distance from the panel no protection is required? Obviously I am not an electrician but would like to update my boat to meet recommendations.
ABYC & Circuit Protection
David, I am not a certified electrician, so take my explanation for what it is worth: If you are within the 7" unprotected/40"protected lengths, you can forego the circuit over-current protection. 7" (measured along the conductor)keeps the overcurrent protection (fuse) as close as possible to the source. Believe me, you can't get very far from the source with 7" inches of wire! The 40" rule applies if the conductor is in a conduit, panel or some sort of sheath. ABYC will give you some credit for protecting the wire from shifting outboards, anchors, etc. but they still don't give you enough length to start routing conductors through the bilge and so forth. The bottom line is: fuse all non-grounded conductors (i.e. the 'positive' side) as close as possible to their source. The fuse (or breaker) should be rated at slightly greater than the maximum required current of the circuit (~125%) but less than the ampacity (or maximum allowable current) of the wire. Check the site link below for some useful information.
David, I am not a certified electrician, so take my explanation for what it is worth: If you are within the 7" unprotected/40"protected lengths, you can forego the circuit over-current protection. 7" (measured along the conductor)keeps the overcurrent protection (fuse) as close as possible to the source. Believe me, you can't get very far from the source with 7" inches of wire! The 40" rule applies if the conductor is in a conduit, panel or some sort of sheath. ABYC will give you some credit for protecting the wire from shifting outboards, anchors, etc. but they still don't give you enough length to start routing conductors through the bilge and so forth. The bottom line is: fuse all non-grounded conductors (i.e. the 'positive' side) as close as possible to their source. The fuse (or breaker) should be rated at slightly greater than the maximum required current of the circuit (~125%) but less than the ampacity (or maximum allowable current) of the wire. Check the site link below for some useful information.
Good poop.
Thanks Jim and Ed. This is the kind of info we refitting H37C fools need. So Jim, you must have opened up the salon sole on one or both sides of the bilge. Both Gene G. and Tom H. had mentioned there was a lot of space under there. But isn't that a lot of expensive wire to get that accomplished? How much area did you open up and did it weaken anything?
Thanks Jim and Ed. This is the kind of info we refitting H37C fools need. So Jim, you must have opened up the salon sole on one or both sides of the bilge. Both Gene G. and Tom H. had mentioned there was a lot of space under there. But isn't that a lot of expensive wire to get that accomplished? How much area did you open up and did it weaken anything?
Group 24s in the bilge
Ed, I glassed a plywood shelf in the bilge, aft of the shower sump. 3 group 24 batteries fit in quite neatly and still allow access to the bilge pump, etc. I still mean to get into those voids under the floor some day...
Ed, I glassed a plywood shelf in the bilge, aft of the shower sump. 3 group 24 batteries fit in quite neatly and still allow access to the bilge pump, etc. I still mean to get into those voids under the floor some day...
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