H37C - new furler install.

[Ed Schenck]

Having trouble trying to determine the exact stud to eye length of the new forestay. In replacing the old solid rod furler I see that the Harken furler with the standard toggle attaches right at the chainplate. In other words the turnbuckle is up inside the furler drum. I think that is way too low for our yankee foresails. Am I right?

In studying lots of pictures I find two, Blaise and Mark, where the top of their furler drums are about even with the lower pulpit rail. My Hyde drum is just above that rail. As seen in the picture that takes about a 10.5" extenstion. Most H37C drums seem to be even higher. Now Blaise races as a sloop with a deck sweeper so I am not sure that is a good comparison.

Given that I am somewhat constrained by my yankee's luff length should I go lower or try to duplicate the old? I wonder how I do that with the available hardware? You can also see from the picture that I cannot use the hardware that I have. It is not a real turnbuckle and would be non-adjustable after installation.

 

[med2463]

I have a Hearken cruising unit. Has 2 stainless legs that bolt to the pin, furler drum. harken Manuals show this clearly. I'm on Mary's computer so I can't get to my pictures. Will take a photo later and send to you.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Bill. I have the installation manual but do not see that. I have found that they sell what they call an "Extra 7-inch Connector" for $27. But I do not see how to install it nor get an accurate measurement.

 

[med2463]

Mary has photos. We are at Caladesi Island, so I can't reach my manual. Will liook at harken on line later, e-mail you tomorrow. Mine see more like 14" than 7

 

[Johnb]

Furler

The yard that installed mine modified the pulpit. Since then we have a new jib that is made to go with that installation.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks for that closeup John. Now I see how you are able to keep the drum lower. And you probably have a luff that is 6" longer than mine.

Bill, I did find those longer links, what they call "Long Link Plate with Toggle". Somehow I was in the "Unit 0" manual instead of the "Unit 1, 2" manual. I just printed the work sheets for calculating the lengths. It looks like the turnbuckle then is inside the links instead of up inside the drum. And I see that it is 15" but can be shortened.

As I study the picture of my current furler I might be better served to use that hardware at the bottom. That is 12" counting the toggle and I can shorten that stud if need be. Then attach the turnbuckle with the Harken toggle to that. Nah, too may parts to fail. Long links give me more flexibility to get the sail to fit.

 

[Johnb]

Ed, I suspect that if I was doing it again I would be happy to sacrifice that luff for stronger pulpit, furler out of the way of the anchor, no jib chafe on the pulpit and maybe slightly better forward vision. Live and learn.

 

[sandpiper10471]

I have a Harken on mine but unfortunately won't be to the boat for a couple of weeks and I don't think I have any detail photos of the tack area. However, I do know the tack is extremely high off the deck. Ed = rather than stressing and using your time, why not take the whole thing to your Harken rep and let him figure it all out. Heck, for the price you pay for a new unit, the rep should come out to the boat and do the legwork to ensure everything fits perfectly. Of course, he(she) will expect the stick to be up.

 

[Ed Schenck]

My problem Bill P. is that I am trying to order a forestay. The Harken furler changes things because of the toggle lengths. But I think the "long link toggle" solves the problem because it can be shortened. My current total length, pin to pin, changes at the bottom because the toggle goes from 2" to the Harken 2 5/16". Then add a turnbuckle. So subtract another eight inches(one stud, the other is on the new wire).

 

[Ed A]

Ed
i had the long plates installed on mine. it worked out great. with no mod to put on the 808 which is is pretty large. ideal set up would put the tack at the same height off the deck. can you calculate that by comparing unit? Then ensure you still have the hoist you will need at the top, also concider how much room you will have at the top swivel.
mine seemed close to the mast. you have to have room for the halyard to get off the furler and to the mast and then to the masthead block up to.

I would not modify the pulpit.
hope that makes sense.
Ed

 

[Bill1565]

Got some pix on Mary's camera yesterday. There is a special Harken Pin with a shoulder and threads at the bottom, 2 allen head machine screws in each piece that fasten to the bottom of the roller.

I didn't put this one on, Chet P did, but I put one on another boat using the old forestay by feeding the extrusions over the swaged stud.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Those pictures really clear things up Bill, thanks. I can see how those link plates have multiple holes for shortening. I think I will bring mine down a hole or two to more closely match where my old drum sat. Ed points out that I don't want the swivel too close to the top. I think too close is asking for the dreaded halyard wrap.

I haven't read all the manual detail yet. But it appears that you can slide the drum up over the foil somehow. This permits adjustment of the turnbuckle while the forestay is attached, right?

 

[Bill1565]

Yes, you can slide the drum up. Much easiere on new ones than old, but you can do it with both. You can, if your head swivel is too high, put a keeper on the mast to pull the halyard in at a steeper angle, and keep it clear of the swivel.

 

[Mark Price]

"In studying lots of pictures I find two, Blaise and Mark, where the top of their furler drums are about even with the lower pulpit rail. "

Ed- not sure if I'm the Mark you are referrng to but, here is a shot of my furler. I have a long cable that goes from the tack attachment on the drum to the tack on the furler as you can see in the photo. Hope that helps, if its not too late. I have been busy getting Illusion back in the water and moving in ( I think I'm going to like living aboard!!)

Mark