This last weekend I finally got all the old holding tank out piece-by-piece. I thought of making one the same size out of polymer sheets, but it would never fit through the existing V-berth openings. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. PS: My boat sure smells better.
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Unfortunately, you may have to do some surgical...
...carpentry. And it's a universal problem. Why boat builders build around tanks so that they cannot be removed--and in some cases, even accessed--without taking a chain saw to the boat is a mystery to me. If any of the designers and engineers had to deal with the issues they create 10 years down the road, I'm convinced they'd do things a whole lot differently!
...carpentry. And it's a universal problem. Why boat builders build around tanks so that they cannot be removed--and in some cases, even accessed--without taking a chain saw to the boat is a mystery to me. If any of the designers and engineers had to deal with the issues they create 10 years down the road, I'm convinced they'd do things a whole lot differently!
37c holding tank
I'd suggest you use the space under the shower seat for storage. Someone replaced the original holding tank in my boat with one about 2 ft long by 1 ft square, and I recently relocated this to the second compartment from the bow. It sits against the top of the compartment, and against the aft bulkhead. Naturally, there's some woodwork holding it up and securely in place. This compartment is also where the pump-out thru hull is located, and where the hand pump for the holding tank is located. It's a tight fit, but Everything fits in nicely, and there's still some room for shelves to store things that don't mind being close to holding tanks -- pumps, flares, boots, etc.
I'd suggest you use the space under the shower seat for storage. Someone replaced the original holding tank in my boat with one about 2 ft long by 1 ft square, and I recently relocated this to the second compartment from the bow. It sits against the top of the compartment, and against the aft bulkhead. Naturally, there's some woodwork holding it up and securely in place. This compartment is also where the pump-out thru hull is located, and where the hand pump for the holding tank is located. It's a tight fit, but Everything fits in nicely, and there's still some room for shelves to store things that don't mind being close to holding tanks -- pumps, flares, boots, etc.
Another tank story.
Hi Jerry, like yours my tank was removed through the bulkhead between the starboard v-berth and shower seat. Then the owner capped off the thru-hull in that same area for overboard discharge. Next he installed a bladder tank in the center section of the v-berth with just three hoses, head to tank, tank to deck pumpout, and vent. No Y-valve and no macerator. It works well and has no odor but I don't like the long hose run, probably mostly water in the tank because I want to make sure the hoses are clear when I flush. There's no pumping overboard on the Great Lakes which explains capping the discharge. Ed at schencked@bfusa.com
Hi Jerry, like yours my tank was removed through the bulkhead between the starboard v-berth and shower seat. Then the owner capped off the thru-hull in that same area for overboard discharge. Next he installed a bladder tank in the center section of the v-berth with just three hoses, head to tank, tank to deck pumpout, and vent. No Y-valve and no macerator. It works well and has no odor but I don't like the long hose run, probably mostly water in the tank because I want to make sure the hoses are clear when I flush. There's no pumping overboard on the Great Lakes which explains capping the discharge. Ed at schencked@bfusa.com
Holding tank
Jerry, When we purchased our Hunter three years ago the previous owner had installed a bladder type holding tank in the compartment under the forward berth and a gusher type pump to pump it out. The bladder was installed vertically which meant that with any use the vent would fill up. The vent hose was installed with a loop that went down instead of up which meant it plugged up. The fittings into the tank were jury rigged with some pvc fittings that almost fit and the pump developed a leak. In short it was a stinking mess. Bladders may work for water but not for sewage. Two layups ago I pulled the whole mess out and glassed a platform into the compartment but left an opening to get to the secock. I installed a five gallon pvc holding tank, maceator pump with a switch in the compartment, and a y-valve with a lock on the overboard side. The vent hose was rerouted so it is not lower than the tank to prevent backup and in the process I replaced the seacock. I also installed a solar powered vent fan in the forward hatch. We now have a system that works for weekends or short cruises and when the occasion arises for offshore trips we can still pump overboard. We also have gone to using the KO treatment for the waste system. This has drastically reduced the smell. About the only thing we get now is if it get really warm as it is want to do on the Chesapeake there is some residual odors from the compartments but they are becoming less noticeable as time goes on. Lysol seems to help. All in all I have about $250 in the system including a new head.
Jerry, When we purchased our Hunter three years ago the previous owner had installed a bladder type holding tank in the compartment under the forward berth and a gusher type pump to pump it out. The bladder was installed vertically which meant that with any use the vent would fill up. The vent hose was installed with a loop that went down instead of up which meant it plugged up. The fittings into the tank were jury rigged with some pvc fittings that almost fit and the pump developed a leak. In short it was a stinking mess. Bladders may work for water but not for sewage. Two layups ago I pulled the whole mess out and glassed a platform into the compartment but left an opening to get to the secock. I installed a five gallon pvc holding tank, maceator pump with a switch in the compartment, and a y-valve with a lock on the overboard side. The vent hose was rerouted so it is not lower than the tank to prevent backup and in the process I replaced the seacock. I also installed a solar powered vent fan in the forward hatch. We now have a system that works for weekends or short cruises and when the occasion arises for offshore trips we can still pump overboard. We also have gone to using the KO treatment for the waste system. This has drastically reduced the smell. About the only thing we get now is if it get really warm as it is want to do on the Chesapeake there is some residual odors from the compartments but they are becoming less noticeable as time goes on. Lysol seems to help. All in all I have about $250 in the system including a new head.
Frank, spray the compartments with K.O.
Get all the surfaces good and wet...then just leave the hatches open and let it dry. If you can turn on a fan to really get some air into 'em for a couple of hours, all the better. That SHOULD be the end of your residual odor. Btw...K.O. also gets rid of mildew odor in cushions...pet accident sites in carpet...any organically caused odor.
Get all the surfaces good and wet...then just leave the hatches open and let it dry. If you can turn on a fan to really get some air into 'em for a couple of hours, all the better. That SHOULD be the end of your residual odor. Btw...K.O. also gets rid of mildew odor in cushions...pet accident sites in carpet...any organically caused odor.
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