My H37C has a new North mainsail. Now I want to replace the yankee and have been getting estimates. So far Rolly Tasker is by far the best estimate(see link). And I know from my research that Dan Sheehan bought Tasker sails for his H37C. I am not interested in making a Cutter into a Sloop but am wondering, did any of you get a different cut or size yankee? And are there other lofts that I might be missing? So far I have estimates from North($2000 ), Mack($1700 ), Tasker($1300), and one that I cannot find. The Air Force online quotes were quite high, over $2300. Thanks for your help.
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I'd worry about too cheap!
Ed: I worry when someone is too cheap. You can also contact them here at the HOW store and see what price they are quoting. When you get these prices, are they for the exact same material brand and construction techniques? It's just hard to believe that this is an apples to apples comparison on price.
Ed: I worry when someone is too cheap. You can also contact them here at the HOW store and see what price they are quoting. When you get these prices, are they for the exact same material brand and construction techniques? It's just hard to believe that this is an apples to apples comparison on price.
Thanks for the input Steve.
I also worry about that. But so far they all say Dacron 4800. So I am comfortable with that aspect. If you search the archives for "Tasker" you only see positive comments. Naturally I would like a North to match my main. Cripe, my two black sailcovers have that big blue North logo on them!
I also worry about that. But so far they all say Dacron 4800. So I am comfortable with that aspect. If you search the archives for "Tasker" you only see positive comments. Naturally I would like a North to match my main. Cripe, my two black sailcovers have that big blue North logo on them!
Still not sure that we are on the same plane.
Ed: I read your reply, but I am not sure that we are talking about the same materials. These guys are really toooo much less expensive to believe that they are using the SAME brand of cloth. Dacron 4800 does not mean much to me (but believe me I am NO expert on this subject). When I hear them talk about cloth there is usually a name like Challenger, Bainbridge, North (they have their own cloths) etc. Practical Sailor always has good research on these types of subjects and last year or so (hard to remember when you are my age) did one on the cost of sails. I do not know if you have any back issues but I'll see if I can find it for you. There are also some sites that will talk about the differences in the types of cloth. Everyone has a 7.3 or 8.0 oz cloth but how it is made is what really makes the difference. My Neil Pryde sails that were on my boat actually held up very good. I replaced my main sail a couple of years ago and it appears to be doing very good so far. But to think that I may have been able to get the same sail for 30-40% less still makes me suspicious. They must be sewing these sails offshore if they really use the SAME material. Sorry if I can't believe this but being in business for myself makes me that type of a person (a suspicious bastard).
Ed: I read your reply, but I am not sure that we are talking about the same materials. These guys are really toooo much less expensive to believe that they are using the SAME brand of cloth. Dacron 4800 does not mean much to me (but believe me I am NO expert on this subject). When I hear them talk about cloth there is usually a name like Challenger, Bainbridge, North (they have their own cloths) etc. Practical Sailor always has good research on these types of subjects and last year or so (hard to remember when you are my age) did one on the cost of sails. I do not know if you have any back issues but I'll see if I can find it for you. There are also some sites that will talk about the differences in the types of cloth. Everyone has a 7.3 or 8.0 oz cloth but how it is made is what really makes the difference. My Neil Pryde sails that were on my boat actually held up very good. I replaced my main sail a couple of years ago and it appears to be doing very good so far. But to think that I may have been able to get the same sail for 30-40% less still makes me suspicious. They must be sewing these sails offshore if they really use the SAME material. Sorry if I can't believe this but being in business for myself makes me that type of a person (a suspicious bastard).
used?
This is a bit different approch, but I had a big used sail cut down. My sailmaker had a big Yankee from some much larger ship. He cut the bottom to fit my boat and it's the best jib I have now. It's probably about 110%, going just about horizontal with the lifelines, and back just behind the mast. Using it and the staysail in light air - it moves me quite well. It was like new, but nobody was interested in it. Cost? $200 for the sail, $100 for the labor. I've sailed it thousands of miles and it's good to about 18 knots.
This is a bit different approch, but I had a big used sail cut down. My sailmaker had a big Yankee from some much larger ship. He cut the bottom to fit my boat and it's the best jib I have now. It's probably about 110%, going just about horizontal with the lifelines, and back just behind the mast. Using it and the staysail in light air - it moves me quite well. It was like new, but nobody was interested in it. Cost? $200 for the sail, $100 for the labor. I've sailed it thousands of miles and it's good to about 18 knots.
HONG KONG
I shopped the net until I dropped, finally went with LEE Sails located in Hong Kong. Several members of our YC have also purchased sails from LEE and we are all very satisfied with the fit, quality ,and most of all - the price. Kalaukia
I shopped the net until I dropped, finally went with LEE Sails located in Hong Kong. Several members of our YC have also purchased sails from LEE and we are all very satisfied with the fit, quality ,and most of all - the price. Kalaukia
Try CD
Ed, I put a Cruising Design main on my previous boat, and found it to be the best looking sail I ever owned (which may not be saying much). It was built in the North factory and came in a North bag with North sail ties. Only the logo on the sail said CD. I suspect the success of this marque may have gone to the bottom line, however, as their prices have migrated toward the competition's. For our purposes on the 37C perhaps the most important consideration may be the cut and/or size to buy, and not so much who's logo is in the corner. Of course, a matched set will look a lot sharper at the dock (where the boat is 98% of the time). I'd like to see a bigger and lower cut headsail than the factory original on Clair if and when I jump in. As we're into the boat show season, you should be able to swing a deal for winter or spring delivery from just about anybody. Make up your mind who to go with and then let them know where they need to be and give them some time to think about it. In this climate (economic) any order is a good one. Best regards, Gary
Ed, I put a Cruising Design main on my previous boat, and found it to be the best looking sail I ever owned (which may not be saying much). It was built in the North factory and came in a North bag with North sail ties. Only the logo on the sail said CD. I suspect the success of this marque may have gone to the bottom line, however, as their prices have migrated toward the competition's. For our purposes on the 37C perhaps the most important consideration may be the cut and/or size to buy, and not so much who's logo is in the corner. Of course, a matched set will look a lot sharper at the dock (where the boat is 98% of the time). I'd like to see a bigger and lower cut headsail than the factory original on Clair if and when I jump in. As we're into the boat show season, you should be able to swing a deal for winter or spring delivery from just about anybody. Make up your mind who to go with and then let them know where they need to be and give them some time to think about it. In this climate (economic) any order is a good one. Best regards, Gary
couple of sails
Since owning my Hunter 37C I have purchased a 135% multi weight cruise laminate sail from Gleason sailmakers and last year a high clew 105% in cross cut dacron from Rolly Tasker sails. The 135 is a good ssail in light air but because of the large J measurement of a cutter rig it quickly becomes overpowered as the wind speed picks up. The 105 is a much more versatile sail and works well with the staysail. The quality of Tasker sails is excellent. The sail was built to my exact specifications and has performed well in winds from 10 to 40 knots. I would not hesitate to recommend Tasker sails to anyone considering new sails. Hope this helps.
Since owning my Hunter 37C I have purchased a 135% multi weight cruise laminate sail from Gleason sailmakers and last year a high clew 105% in cross cut dacron from Rolly Tasker sails. The 135 is a good ssail in light air but because of the large J measurement of a cutter rig it quickly becomes overpowered as the wind speed picks up. The 105 is a much more versatile sail and works well with the staysail. The quality of Tasker sails is excellent. The sail was built to my exact specifications and has performed well in winds from 10 to 40 knots. I would not hesitate to recommend Tasker sails to anyone considering new sails. Hope this helps.
Turning a cutter into a sloop
I know you said that you didn't want to turn a cutter into a sloop, but it worth considering.I bought my boat new in 1979 and turned it into a sloop in 1983. It is a much better boat. Tacks are a snap with the foredeck clear. It is a better cruising boat because now you not only have room forward of the mast for people,dingy,etc., but can put up a wind scoop. You get to trow away a lot of clutter from the running backstays to the babystay. Without the staysail the boat goes upwind much better and downwind is more gracefull. The boat is MUCH faster. We made these changes to make the boat a better cruising boat. The surprise benefit was how fast the boat is now. The results are in the record books. Two third places in the Daytona-Bermuda TransAT, and West Florida PHRF Boat of the year. I am not trying to brag, I just don't know how else to impress upon you the personallity change that occurs by taking all that stuff off. You can't duplicate it by sailing with using the staysail. If you do change, make sure that you add a dorade rail over your dorades. If you don't, the first time you tack you will put your dorades into orbit. We use our boat for mainly cruising. We just get there ahead of our friends.
I know you said that you didn't want to turn a cutter into a sloop, but it worth considering.I bought my boat new in 1979 and turned it into a sloop in 1983. It is a much better boat. Tacks are a snap with the foredeck clear. It is a better cruising boat because now you not only have room forward of the mast for people,dingy,etc., but can put up a wind scoop. You get to trow away a lot of clutter from the running backstays to the babystay. Without the staysail the boat goes upwind much better and downwind is more gracefull. The boat is MUCH faster. We made these changes to make the boat a better cruising boat. The surprise benefit was how fast the boat is now. The results are in the record books. Two third places in the Daytona-Bermuda TransAT, and West Florida PHRF Boat of the year. I am not trying to brag, I just don't know how else to impress upon you the personallity change that occurs by taking all that stuff off. You can't duplicate it by sailing with using the staysail. If you do change, make sure that you add a dorade rail over your dorades. If you don't, the first time you tack you will put your dorades into orbit. We use our boat for mainly cruising. We just get there ahead of our friends.
difference?
Blaise, I think I've seen pitures of your boat when I was visiting Doran Cushing. If it's the one I think it is, you have won a lot of races! I seem to recall that it is the 5' draft version, correct? Now I have a couple questions. I understand the deck clutter issues, there is no doubt that removing all that will help that area. I've considered changes myself just because of that. I'm not sure I understand why it would be faster as a sloop, though. Other than making tacking easier, isn't it the same as a sloop if you just don't raise the staysail? This is not a flame, I'm just trying to learn. We've cruised about 10,000 miles in ours and I'll have to admit that we seldom use the staysail - I wouldn't miss it that much if it was gone. However, even if it was gone, I'd leave the stays, simply for backup. For me, they're peace of mind. I feel like I could lose any one stay and continue on, which wouldn't be the case without the running backstays and inner forestay. Comments?
Blaise, I think I've seen pitures of your boat when I was visiting Doran Cushing. If it's the one I think it is, you have won a lot of races! I seem to recall that it is the 5' draft version, correct? Now I have a couple questions. I understand the deck clutter issues, there is no doubt that removing all that will help that area. I've considered changes myself just because of that. I'm not sure I understand why it would be faster as a sloop, though. Other than making tacking easier, isn't it the same as a sloop if you just don't raise the staysail? This is not a flame, I'm just trying to learn. We've cruised about 10,000 miles in ours and I'll have to admit that we seldom use the staysail - I wouldn't miss it that much if it was gone. However, even if it was gone, I'd leave the stays, simply for backup. For me, they're peace of mind. I feel like I could lose any one stay and continue on, which wouldn't be the case without the running backstays and inner forestay. Comments?
question to blaise
i have considered the same change.. did you keep the old furling gear or change it? what did you replace the headstay with? how big wire if a different furler? dimensions? what size jib? 150? 135? thanks chet p HARRIET'S CHARIOT
i have considered the same change.. did you keep the old furling gear or change it? what did you replace the headstay with? how big wire if a different furler? dimensions? what size jib? 150? 135? thanks chet p HARRIET'S CHARIOT
Blaise makes good points.
I was wondering where you were. We have discussed this issue before. The expense would stop me in a minute. I am sure I would need a new furler along with the new genoa. Without the midstay would the forestay be strong enough even if the drum were big enough?(For Chet, on my boat there is no separate wire forestay. The solid grooved luff rod IS the forestay.) Cleaning up the foredeck really has merit however. And sailing faster sounds good. I do like that a reefed staysail makes a good stormsail on the other hand. Decisions, decisions.
I was wondering where you were. We have discussed this issue before. The expense would stop me in a minute. I am sure I would need a new furler along with the new genoa. Without the midstay would the forestay be strong enough even if the drum were big enough?(For Chet, on my boat there is no separate wire forestay. The solid grooved luff rod IS the forestay.) Cleaning up the foredeck really has merit however. And sailing faster sounds good. I do like that a reefed staysail makes a good stormsail on the other hand. Decisions, decisions.
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