Have an extended bimini top that does not accommodate the rigging from the cockpit traveler. Any suggestions for keeping the bimini and changing the rigging with existing traveler.
H37c alternate rigging
- Thread starter jphud
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Don't see how. Most move the traveler to ahead of the companionway as Hunter did in later years. My traveler is also on the bridgedeck where it will stay. But I made my bimini to accomodate that. You could shorten yours. I have seen boats that used the existing traveler on top with homemade mounts. The best option price/performance-wise seems to be the Garhaurer traveler with mounts.
Thanks Ed,Ed Schenck said:
The gentleman who owned Merlin had a system set up, unfortunately he has been hard to reach.
I may just have to alter the biminy
Can you move the deck mounts slightly aft to allow the mainsheet to clear the bimini?
Maybe you can have the mounts altered to attach the frame to the stern pulpit?
Maybe you can have the mounts altered to attach the frame to the stern pulpit?
Has anyone used the Garhauer gear to move the traveler to the cabin top and how easy was the mod and mostly how robust is the unit.
There are some photos of the Garhauer traveller conversion here:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7315&page=article&mn=37-cutter
The owner who submitted the article, Richard McDonald, is still listed in the owners' directory; maybe try contacting him?
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7315&page=article&mn=37-cutter
The owner who submitted the article, Richard McDonald, is still listed in the owners' directory; maybe try contacting him?
Someone correct me if I am wrong. But aren't the booms different when comparing those made for mid-sheeting versus end-sheeting? Where the three new bales are attached how do you get the bolts through there without hitting the reefing hardware? And is the boom strong enough without reinforcement at the bales? Those questions are why I never considered moving mine. Along with the fact that I have more control with end-boom sheets.
Ed, I believe the boom is an identical Kenyon section on both older & newer H37Cs. The 3 bales (Schaefer on my boat, I think) are mounted on the horizontal centerline, maybe 20 - 24" apart. There are pieces of tubing that go inside of the boom for the bolts to pass through, to prevent crushing the boom section. The outhaul and reefing gear goes between the bale bolts and the top of the boom, as far as I can recall. Yes, it is fun to rig all the stuff inside. I had my boom completely apart many years ago because, when I purchased the boat, there were bird nests (swallows???) inside the boom and I could not get them out any other way!!!
Hi Ed:
Re the reefing gear inside the boom. Are you rigged so that one control line for each reef does both the clew and downhaul/tack? And does the outhaul block and tackle inside the boom to improve the purchase? I ask because my boat doesn't have either. Just three lines running through from the aft end of the boom that exit at the gooseneck. I had no problem avoiding the lines when I drilled through the boom for the bolts to mount the 3 or 4 additional boom I added. Just drill until the bit breaks through. I mounted a bit stop on the drill bits. Since the lines really aren't used much, I am not concerned much about them wearing on the through bolts. Most of the bolt's span through the boom is smooth shank anyway. An observation, just in case this is your setup as well.
Re the reefing gear inside the boom. Are you rigged so that one control line for each reef does both the clew and downhaul/tack? And does the outhaul block and tackle inside the boom to improve the purchase? I ask because my boat doesn't have either. Just three lines running through from the aft end of the boom that exit at the gooseneck. I had no problem avoiding the lines when I drilled through the boom for the bolts to mount the 3 or 4 additional boom I added. Just drill until the bit breaks through. I mounted a bit stop on the drill bits. Since the lines really aren't used much, I am not concerned much about them wearing on the through bolts. Most of the bolt's span through the boom is smooth shank anyway. An observation, just in case this is your setup as well.
Now wait just a minute. I thought the H36 was the bestest of the Cherubinis! And you don't have hardware in your boom?! Actually I think it is for the outhaul that there are some blocks and cars in there on the better boats. 
Really I don"t know if the my lack of in boom block/tackle for reefing and outhaul was a KISS feature by Hunter on the 36's, or somehow the complexity got lost along my boat's P.O chain of ownership. I did install an external 4:1 purchase for the out haul. But it is my least used sail control. Unless the mainsheet is slackened and the boom raised with the topping lift, the foot sail slides can't be budged at all. So I've simply tensioned the out haul moderately and leave it that way.Now wait just a minute. I thought the H36 was the bestest of the Cherubinis! And you don't have hardware in your boom?! Actually I think it is for the outhaul that there are some blocks and cars in there on the better boats.
Time for a new loose-footed main. Then you can control the belly. But probably on THE bay you have to keep it a slab all the time anyway.
I'll keep my main for a while yet. But even though the foot is slugged to the boom, you are right about the central SF bay conditions. Frequently reefed ... so often I do have a loose foot of sorts. Uhm ... wonder if I could rig a snap shackle at the clew end of the out haul line. Then when reefed, transfer it to the reef clew and haul in/let out from there. A reefed mainsail with an added sail control feature! Only thing missing would be a cunningham cringle above each reef point. Well that would be over the top.
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Hi rardiH36
I was having the same problem with my mainsail. I couldn't loosen the foot so I removed all the slugs along the foot. The sail works much better now. You could try this assuming you can put your slugs back on easily if it doesn't give you the improvement you are looking for. My slugs were attached with small SS shackles.
I was having the same problem with my mainsail. I couldn't loosen the foot so I removed all the slugs along the foot. The sail works much better now. You could try this assuming you can put your slugs back on easily if it doesn't give you the improvement you are looking for. My slugs were attached with small SS shackles.
SailorJack:
Thanks for the idea. I'll need to take a look next time at my boat, but I think the foot slugs on my current sail are sewn on with webbing. Guess that I could experiment however by bending the slugs up and temporarily holding them there with duct tape for a trial sail. (Important though to remove the duct tape within a day or so before the sticky adheres to the sail!) Also I would need to review my outhaul setup for strength and that the 4:1 purchase is enough. Eventually figure how to lead the control back to the cockpit too!
Do you know if loose footed mainsails are constructed "beefier" at the clew?
Any consideration about boom stress? Mid boom sheeting vs. loose foot vs. slugged must do something about the way the booms will bend. (I seem to recall reading a few year back a thread on this topic. An engineer actually performed a computer simulation. I will have to search. But the dates may have been before SBO's system migration a couple of year's back. Stuff before the migration can be hard to find.)
Lots of people don't even have a clew and you want a beefy one?!
But seriously, I do think a main built with a loose foot is probably stronger. I don't have a clue but I do know that my clew is heavy duty. Wonder if it matters given the rather fragile outhaul car it connects to?
But seriously, I do think a main built with a loose foot is probably stronger. I don't have a clue but I do know that my clew is heavy duty. Wonder if it matters given the rather fragile outhaul car it connects to?
I just got rid of my traveler and now use twin main sheats. I have U bolts as anchor points on the cabin top and the boom bail is half way on the the boom. It works very well and now can let the dog snooze in the companion way. One guy (George, a very experienced sailor and retired Naval Officer) at our club has the same set up on his Alberg 34 and had told me that it gave him better control of the sail shape.
I was originally going to install a new traveler on the cabin top but the cost and labour involved made me go with the twin mains, at least for this season. I'll post some photos later this week.
I was originally going to install a new traveler on the cabin top but the cost and labour involved made me go with the twin mains, at least for this season. I'll post some photos later this week.
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