The PO of my H34 removed the sump pump at some point. Does anyone have a picture of what was original euipment or what a good replacement might be? All I have is a old hose and a couple of cut wires.
H34 Sump Pump
- Thread starter louistrotta
- Start date
LO.... Here is a picture of my bilge pump. The 3 wires are Ground, 12v from the panel circuit breaker for manual operations and a constant 12v feed that remains on regardless of the panel's main breaker for automatic operations.... -Jon
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Here's my setup; pump and float switch commonly available, wiring as per Jon, all wire connections waterproof connectors.
Are you asking about a 12V bilge pump or a 120V Sump pump that some owners install in their boats to have while connected to shorepower? If you are asking about a bilge pump what is the size of the discharge hose?
A 3/4" discharge hose will service pumps from 350GPH to 800 GPH while larger pumps will require a 1 1/8" hose. As you probably know these pumps are convenience items designed to expel incidental water that collects in the bilge without you having to soak it up manually. They are not intended to be relied upon to keep your boat afloat from any kind of significant water intrusion. At best if the intrusion is small they may get you an hour or two. Another thing is that the usual bilge pump installation will only handle less than 50% of the pump's rated capacity thus a 500 GPH pump might likely handle less than 250 GPH. I would recommend a Rule 500 connected to a float switch to have it work automatically. You may hardwire it to the batteries to have it work while you are away from the boat or just connect it to the panel so you can flip a breaker when you come aboard. I used to believe in installing a back up pump with a switch at a higher water level but after fooling with them for some years and thinking the matter through I consider they are not worth the cost. As far as safety there is no substitute for frequent inspections of all hoses , double clamps and thru-hull valves. When away from the boat always close the head water intake. As far as 120V Sump Pumps you can go to Harbor Freight Tools and pick out a suitable pump that will match the discharge hose size and install it if that is what you were referring to. The pumps are more efficient and have a higher discharge capacity and could indeed keep a boat afloat for a longer period of time and will not drain your batteries. You will need to be comfortable with leaving the 120V circuits on while you may be away from the boat. hope this helps.
A 3/4" discharge hose will service pumps from 350GPH to 800 GPH while larger pumps will require a 1 1/8" hose. As you probably know these pumps are convenience items designed to expel incidental water that collects in the bilge without you having to soak it up manually. They are not intended to be relied upon to keep your boat afloat from any kind of significant water intrusion. At best if the intrusion is small they may get you an hour or two. Another thing is that the usual bilge pump installation will only handle less than 50% of the pump's rated capacity thus a 500 GPH pump might likely handle less than 250 GPH. I would recommend a Rule 500 connected to a float switch to have it work automatically. You may hardwire it to the batteries to have it work while you are away from the boat or just connect it to the panel so you can flip a breaker when you come aboard. I used to believe in installing a back up pump with a switch at a higher water level but after fooling with them for some years and thinking the matter through I consider they are not worth the cost. As far as safety there is no substitute for frequent inspections of all hoses , double clamps and thru-hull valves. When away from the boat always close the head water intake. As far as 120V Sump Pumps you can go to Harbor Freight Tools and pick out a suitable pump that will match the discharge hose size and install it if that is what you were referring to. The pumps are more efficient and have a higher discharge capacity and could indeed keep a boat afloat for a longer period of time and will not drain your batteries. You will need to be comfortable with leaving the 120V circuits on while you may be away from the boat. hope this helps.
Thanks to all, Very informative as I must go through every system on this boat. The Bilge pump is still in however it is to small reated at 500 gallons based on the info from Benny so I will replace it. The sump was for the shower in the head after raising the teak floor covering just an empty box with a smaller hose connection. It may be a good place for the 500 gallon pump if it fits in thhat space.
In my boat any water that finds it's way in ends up in the bulge under the main cabin floor, never in the bilge in the head. As such I suspect that the pump in the head is only for the shower when in use. Otherwise it never sees duty. I suppose if the boat is sinking it will kick in (Hunter 34). If so, it may as well go back to sleep.
While on bilge subject, check out these posts about removing the false bottom in the sump. Note how much deeper PGIJON's bilge sump is compared to Ilanortho's .. Jon has removed the false bottom in his.. Original bilge pump discharge hose was 1 1/4" There was a check valve close to the pump .
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...r-under-the-sole.172736/&highlight=H-34 bilge
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...r-under-the-sole.172736/&highlight=H-34 bilge
Claude is absolutely correct. Removing the false bottom is one of the easiest mods with the biggest payback. What lies beneath is something that all senses take part in when revealed.
