My yard tells me they cannot repack my H34 stuffing box because there is insufficient clearance to back off the nuts to gain access! It has never been replaced since I bought the boat in '83 and I'm nervous. Doesn't drip and doesn't get hot, but seems like the old packing material must be in bad shape by now. To make matters worse, they say that the coupling/flange is so badly corroded that the only way to work on it is to cut the shaft and replace it - replace the cutless bearing and install a PYI stuffing box - total cost ~$1000. Wow! All because the existing shaft log is too long! Do I believe them? Have others had this problem with H34s? Derek
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LOG/SHAFT/CUTLESS BEARING
Derek, I bought my 83' Hunter 34 last month, and when it was pulled for survey the surveyor recommended the shaft log and cutless bearing be replaced. When the yard assessed the work, they told me that labor to remove the log so it could be replaced was such that it was more cost effective to cut the shaft to do the log and replace the shaft - they also redid the bearing. The story sounds similar... Whether or not this was genuninely the best way to go, or I was shafted and reshafted, I couldn't say. I can't speak to the stuffing box question. Dave.
Derek, I bought my 83' Hunter 34 last month, and when it was pulled for survey the surveyor recommended the shaft log and cutless bearing be replaced. When the yard assessed the work, they told me that labor to remove the log so it could be replaced was such that it was more cost effective to cut the shaft to do the log and replace the shaft - they also redid the bearing. The story sounds similar... Whether or not this was genuninely the best way to go, or I was shafted and reshafted, I couldn't say. I can't speak to the stuffing box question. Dave.
I did Mine Myself on the same boat
I have an '83 H34 (hull# 56 with Westerbeke) It's spend most of it's life in fresh water so rust and corrosion were minimal. I pulled the shaft while I was replacing the rudder several years ago. At the same time I replaced the cutlass bearing and repacked the original packing gland. I did repack mine when the shaft was out but I think it cound be done with the shaft it there. Won't be very easy or fun that's how I plan to do mine next time and I'll switch to teflon flax also. First let me say if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you need to pull the shaft my suggestion is to soak the shaft flange with liquid wrench for a week or so before you start. If it doesn't get free using conventional methods try heating the flange after it is disconnected from the transmission. If you break the flange it's only $40 - cheap compared to a shaft. "Professionals" who work on boats, cars, appliances, ect. now find it easy to replace parts instead of fixing anything. After all, in addition to their labor cost there is usually 100% mark up on marine parts so they make more money doing less work. I'd do that if I was in that business. Get a second opinion. Ask some motor head "do it yourself type guy" to look at it. If you get to a point where everything needs replacement the dripless packing is the way to go. Old boats went dozens of years on the old fashion packing glads. The flax is designed to be replaced periodically. I couldn't afford sailing if I replaced everything that needed minor service. Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
I have an '83 H34 (hull# 56 with Westerbeke) It's spend most of it's life in fresh water so rust and corrosion were minimal. I pulled the shaft while I was replacing the rudder several years ago. At the same time I replaced the cutlass bearing and repacked the original packing gland. I did repack mine when the shaft was out but I think it cound be done with the shaft it there. Won't be very easy or fun that's how I plan to do mine next time and I'll switch to teflon flax also. First let me say if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you need to pull the shaft my suggestion is to soak the shaft flange with liquid wrench for a week or so before you start. If it doesn't get free using conventional methods try heating the flange after it is disconnected from the transmission. If you break the flange it's only $40 - cheap compared to a shaft. "Professionals" who work on boats, cars, appliances, ect. now find it easy to replace parts instead of fixing anything. After all, in addition to their labor cost there is usually 100% mark up on marine parts so they make more money doing less work. I'd do that if I was in that business. Get a second opinion. Ask some motor head "do it yourself type guy" to look at it. If you get to a point where everything needs replacement the dripless packing is the way to go. Old boats went dozens of years on the old fashion packing glads. The flax is designed to be replaced periodically. I couldn't afford sailing if I replaced everything that needed minor service. Barry s/v "PER DIEM too"
I Agree
I agree with Barry, Mine is a 1984 H34, and I repacked about 4 years ago. We sail in salt water, and the only maintainence I do is tighten a 1/2 turn when I see a drip without the engine in gear. the nuts are rusted, yes, but I think they are stainless, because they really do come apart easily. Try it, you may save $997.00!!
I agree with Barry, Mine is a 1984 H34, and I repacked about 4 years ago. We sail in salt water, and the only maintainence I do is tighten a 1/2 turn when I see a drip without the engine in gear. the nuts are rusted, yes, but I think they are stainless, because they really do come apart easily. Try it, you may save $997.00!!
Cut it back
Derek, Had same problem (repacking stuffing box) with my '84 34. My yard "fixed" the problem by cutting the hose shorter and pushing the stuffing box back into the shortened hose. This provided enough clearance to open the box to replace the stuffing. Suggest you use some type of Teflon packing (West Marine) to replace the original. I am sure the original packing is dried out by now. My boat is 16 year old now and I have replaced the packing about 4-5 times now. I'm thinking of replacing the hose soon too! I took a rectangular plastic container and cut down one wall so it fits under the stuffing box. This catches the drips from the stuffing box. I have a few sheets of paper towels in it so any water does not slosh out. Water in the plastic container usually dries up from the engine heat. Would be careful pulling shaft from coupling. Coupling is cheap (relatively) but the transmission flange the coupling attaches to is not as easy to replace! Sail safe and keep the bilge dry, DJ
Derek, Had same problem (repacking stuffing box) with my '84 34. My yard "fixed" the problem by cutting the hose shorter and pushing the stuffing box back into the shortened hose. This provided enough clearance to open the box to replace the stuffing. Suggest you use some type of Teflon packing (West Marine) to replace the original. I am sure the original packing is dried out by now. My boat is 16 year old now and I have replaced the packing about 4-5 times now. I'm thinking of replacing the hose soon too! I took a rectangular plastic container and cut down one wall so it fits under the stuffing box. This catches the drips from the stuffing box. I have a few sheets of paper towels in it so any water does not slosh out. Water in the plastic container usually dries up from the engine heat. Would be careful pulling shaft from coupling. Coupling is cheap (relatively) but the transmission flange the coupling attaches to is not as easy to replace! Sail safe and keep the bilge dry, DJ
One more view of it.
You don't mention whether the cutless bearing actually needs replacement. If it did I would do the following(myself): 1) Make certain the parts were attainable. 2) Work my tail off, over weeks if necessary, to separate the shaft/flange. No go? Then hacksaw the shaft. 3) Replace hose with a new, shorter one as previously mentioned. 4) Take the old shaft off the tranny. 5) Buy new shaft and cutless bearing. 6) Loosen and rebed the shaft strut. 7) Get all of the old packing out before you start putting it back together. 8) Reassemble and use as much of the dripless packing as will fit between two rings of teflon packing. Don't need a cutless bearing and no drips? Just sail.
You don't mention whether the cutless bearing actually needs replacement. If it did I would do the following(myself): 1) Make certain the parts were attainable. 2) Work my tail off, over weeks if necessary, to separate the shaft/flange. No go? Then hacksaw the shaft. 3) Replace hose with a new, shorter one as previously mentioned. 4) Take the old shaft off the tranny. 5) Buy new shaft and cutless bearing. 6) Loosen and rebed the shaft strut. 7) Get all of the old packing out before you start putting it back together. 8) Reassemble and use as much of the dripless packing as will fit between two rings of teflon packing. Don't need a cutless bearing and no drips? Just sail.
stuffing box and other repairs and drive saver
In the process of adding a drive saver, I had to get more clearance around the packing nut, so shaved off about an inch or two of length of the black hose. By the way, the drive saver really quieted that prop shaft noise. I think on my boat I shaved every last bit of the hose.. any more and I would have had to pull and replace.. YUK.
In the process of adding a drive saver, I had to get more clearance around the packing nut, so shaved off about an inch or two of length of the black hose. By the way, the drive saver really quieted that prop shaft noise. I think on my boat I shaved every last bit of the hose.. any more and I would have had to pull and replace.. YUK.
I'm new to the H34, but I had the same problems on my old boat. If you need to remove the flange... Do not put a space between the flanges and hammer away on the aft flange. This will cause major transmission trouble. You might try what I did. Separate the flanges and pull the shaft aft. Cut a pipe section in two lengthwise and clamp both sections around the shaft between the cutless bearing and the propellor, so the shaft cannot move forward. Now you can apply heat to the flange and a soft hammer without causing an damage. The flange should come off with a few taps. When you put things back together use some never-seize between the metal parts, especially if they are dissimilar.
stuffing box repacked
I just repacked my stuffing box on my 34equiped with a yanmar. When looking at the shaft the coupling most forward with the nut that will take a wrench turn away from you or counterclockwise if looking aft. It should not be so tight that you can't turn it. If so use liguid wrench. Back it all the way out(toward the engine), It looked like I only had about 1/16" clearance. I used a bent icepick to clean out all of the old packing and repacked it with 1/8" packing, about 12 " using a stright slot screwdriver. Total time 40 minutes, total cost $1.20.
I just repacked my stuffing box on my 34equiped with a yanmar. When looking at the shaft the coupling most forward with the nut that will take a wrench turn away from you or counterclockwise if looking aft. It should not be so tight that you can't turn it. If so use liguid wrench. Back it all the way out(toward the engine), It looked like I only had about 1/16" clearance. I used a bent icepick to clean out all of the old packing and repacked it with 1/8" packing, about 12 " using a stright slot screwdriver. Total time 40 minutes, total cost $1.20.
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