H34: How Is The V-Berth Sole Attached

[Joe Mullee]

I'm in the process of fixing a leaking port over the vanity (among others). After that job it's on to the v-berth sole which needs to be replaced.

- is that sole glued down?
- any advice on how to remove it?
- what type of adhesive should I use when I install something new?

I was thinking of using Lonseal (or something similiar) when I do this job using marine plywood as the base. After that I would most likely overlay the rest of the sole in the same material. Any thoughts on that idea?

Thanks as always for any advice!!

Joe Mullee
1983 H34, #170

 

[Steve Dion]

Joe:

I thought that they are screwed down. Look closely and see if you see any bungs that may be covering the screw heads.

 

[kloudie1]

Yup.. Bungs over screws .. attached to the floor grid.
Look at stuff like this too:
http://www.ttcustommarine.biz/catalog/item/3755821/3380967.htm
Post some pictures of the project, Joe..

 

[Dan Johnson]

Joe...

Yep, bungs cover the attachment screws. Post pics of what you do!

Apologies, Claude, there's an echo in here!

 

[kloudie1]

No problem, Dan..
Joe probably feels better having two or more owners post.. especially when we all agree.. Hope all is good up there in Maryland.

 

[Joe Mullee]

I Have An Admission To Make

"IF" I do this job myself I will surely do the photograph/post thing and you'll see it all. But I have to come clean on this. While at the boat show I spoke to a shipwright who is inspecting the sole today and giving me a quote. I'm a sales guy and time is money. If the quote is reasonable I'll check references and decide. It would only be the third time I paid someone to work on my boat, the others being replacing the head intake and discharge thru hulls (2001) and the complete removal and new installation of the cockpit sole last year.

Thanks for your help!!

 

[Dan Johnson]

Joe...

You gotta do what's most comfortable for you to do. As I get older I'm finding I'm less inclined to tackle certain projects, either from lack of experience or not wanting to botch up something important. In your case, learn from a pro...

 

[Steve W]

Joe,

 

[Steve W]

Joe, with my old boat, I got as far as ordering a sample of the PlasTeak material to ascertain its thickness, what it actually looked like (as opposed to a picture). Had I not upgraded to the newer boat I definitely would have installed the PlasTeak. The more I read the instructions, viewed their video, the more I realized that the actual installation would have been a piece of cake. The measurements are easy (to make a "template") and I liked the fact that it would go down right over my existing sole - even with the "dings" in the old sole from dropped tools, etc.

Since you wouldn't have to remove the old sole it should really be a very simple installation for yourself. The only tools you'd need would be a linoleum knife, a bucket of the correct cement, and a bunch of sandbags to hold it in place while the cement cures.

 

[navigator97]

Joe, If it's just a surface thing that you need to address, you could sand it down just to a good bare surface and put on a few coats of Ultimate Sole coating. I have used that a few years ago and it is great and durable. If the sole is delaminating and it really needs to be replaced, look for Teak & Holly Vaneered Marine Plywood. Use the old as a pattern to cut out new pieces. There is a place in Somerville MA named Boulter Plywood where you could get it. Then use Ultimate Sole. It is made in CT.

 

[Joe Mullee]

Estimate Received For Interior Sole Using NuTeak

As I mentioned earlier I was considering having a professional repair the interior sole on my 1983 Hunter 34. The v-birth section needs to be replaced entirely. The main cabin has a small soft spot just aft of the head/vanity bulkhead betwwen the two settees. There is another small soft spot just forward of the icebox. I believe the sole is original. I have owned the boat since 2001 and about five years ago did the sanding/resurfacing thing.

The estimate I recieved was from a company in the Annapolis area. Their plan is to install marine grade plywood in the v-birth and then repair the two soft spots by cutting them out and patching the area's with the same marine plywood. Then the entire "exposed" sole, from the v-birth to the aft cabin would be covered with the NuTeak product.

Below is the estimate:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good Afternoon Joe-
Attached is the estimate that Patrick and I did on the interior of your boat yesterday. Due to the fact that the flooring goes underneath and beyond the edges of your cabinetry and bench seats, the easiest way to repair the soft spots will be to cut away and replace sections. We have estimated an amount that will be charged to do this barring we do not run into any unexpected problems. After the sections are replaced, sealed and level, we will then install our interior C-Floor product over the existing floor and repaired areas creating a beautiful new floor that will last you for many years. All hatches will be cut out with the holly caulk lines running in alignment to the rest of the floor. Please let me know if you have any questions. We hope to hear from you soon.


Potential Order Information:
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]Repair sub floor sections. Approx 23 sq ft. Price reflects three sections.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]$45-50 per sq ft = $1100[/FONT][/FONT]
Install C-Floor product throughout cabin. Approx 48 sq ft
$35 per sq ft = $1680
Total Estimate = $2780


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Besides the price the concern I have is that "patching" the damaged sections may be putting a bandaid on a bigger problem. My guess is that other parts of the main cabin sole may be delaminating underneath and it will be only a few years longer before those area's start to go soft too. Regardless, I will tackle this problem myself. It will take me a lot longer but I think I can handle it and the cost savings would be significant.

As always I'm interested in any advice.


Thanks,
Joe Mullee

 

[Mark Ferrick]

Joe, I would have them remove the complete subfloor and replace with the marine grade plywood. That way, you are starting fresh. Assuming 48 sqft ( thats what you need for the 'C' floor) that is less than 2 sheets of ply. I think that the time involved to install would be less.
The big caveat is I do not know what is sitting on the floor, i.e. what needs to be removed prior to removal/install of the ply.

The cost of the 'C' floor ( if same as the PlasTeak link above) is well above what you can buy it for, but it is installed.
Material wise:
- 2 sheets marine (Okoume 3/4")plywood = 189*2=380 + shipping
- PlasTeak = 45 per 1'x6' assume 10' length = 450 + shipping
The rest is labor.
Maybe another contractor is in order?

See this link -> http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=123495&#post760482

 

[Dan Johnson]

Joe...

I think you're on the right track thinking about the possible delam of other portions of the cabin sole. You need to find the root cause of the problem and fix it as well as making those repairs.

It sounds like lots of moisture in the bilges may be causing the delam from below. Maybe the bilge sections are not draining back to the sump. Where the floor pieces are removed, see if the limber holes are open aftward to the sump.

To redo the complete floor as suggested would require all the furniture cabinetry to be removed back to the ice box bulkhead, including the engine boxing, aft cabin/nav station wall, etc. Quite a labor intensive task, not to mention the reassembly process.

"Patching" in pieces would concern me as there are no fore/aft stringers to support the sole patch pieces where they would meet the original sole. Would the contractor be adding "wood cleats" at the seams to permit the attachment along the edges? Worth talking to him about what process he will follow in doing the work.

Regards...