OK, OK, Joe and Ed Convinced Me, I bought a three way valve at West Marine. Installed same in the intake line near the front of the engine box. After the strainer,My boat has a small opening plate in this location, and I placed the valve so as I could reach it from this opening.I ran a hose from the three way valve, and mounted the 110 volt raw water pump to the rear of the engine box, so as to be able to service it from the aft cabin hatch that is over the drive shaft and stuffing box. I ran the hose and wire from there to the A/C under the Chart table,using the same route that my other wires run. I bought the 20 amp circut breaker at West and installed it in my stock Hunter panel. I mounted the thermostat in the same spot as the switch panel, towards the bow, easily read, out of the sunlight away from the outlet vents. works for us? I ran the out flow thru hull under the chart table, just on top of the "step"in the inner hull. A hole of about 4 inches needs to be drilled in the inner hull liner so as to allow a proper sized backer to the thru hull fitting.I am about 10 inches from the waterline, but this could not be helped. At this point I have the base built, painted, installed, and have the a/c placed on the base for final fit.The water is run to and from the a/c,I have the electric run to the control box, and the wire from the pump and thermostat run as required. I ran one air supply duct to the foreward port side of the salon, ran thru the area behind the back rest cushions, then up thru the storage to the top shelf, where it exits into a vent. A second vent will be in the aft cabin, and one in the a/c cabinet. The fourth step will be in building the cabinet, adding air return vents, and final fastening down and testing. My friend who just completed his installation,says his is loud, but he says there are some adjustments he has not yet tried. Will keep advised, Ideas anyone? Please post.
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DJ Dreyer
Give it to the sink
I ran my outflow from the AC to a new "T" I placed in the the drain line for the small sink across from the head. Used a bronze T that screwed to the bottom of sink tail pipe. I can then listen to the AC water drain when I want to make sure the pump is not clogged with Jelly Fish or put in the sink stopper and not hear anything at all. One less hole in the hull. DJ
I ran my outflow from the AC to a new "T" I placed in the the drain line for the small sink across from the head. Used a bronze T that screwed to the bottom of sink tail pipe. I can then listen to the AC water drain when I want to make sure the pump is not clogged with Jelly Fish or put in the sink stopper and not hear anything at all. One less hole in the hull. DJ
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Dave Kelton
suggestion
One thing. The outlet you put in that's about 10 inches from the waterline. I suggest that you put a loop in the hose higher than the greatest heeling angle with a siphon stop. That may ruin the draining plans, but it will prevent a siphoning effect of water back in. I wonder if you could use a check valve instead of the the loop? Dave
One thing. The outlet you put in that's about 10 inches from the waterline. I suggest that you put a loop in the hose higher than the greatest heeling angle with a siphon stop. That may ruin the draining plans, but it will prevent a siphoning effect of water back in. I wonder if you could use a check valve instead of the the loop? Dave
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DJ
Why Siphon Block
Don't think I need one and never had a problem in 15 yrs. The other end of the hose is connected to a new 1/2-inch seacock under the galley sink (via the coolant pump and condensing unit.) I usually keep that seacock closed unless I use the AC. Even with it open, if any water does get into the drain hose attached to the bottom of the head sink, it would just drain out the seacock under the galley sink. Never had any water back up into either sink while sailing (and the boat has been sailed). Most of the time the problem is getting the AC coolant pump to prime (even with pump below water line). OBTW, condensate from my AC unit is directed into the bilge sump with the main bilge pump moving it overboard.
Don't think I need one and never had a problem in 15 yrs. The other end of the hose is connected to a new 1/2-inch seacock under the galley sink (via the coolant pump and condensing unit.) I usually keep that seacock closed unless I use the AC. Even with it open, if any water does get into the drain hose attached to the bottom of the head sink, it would just drain out the seacock under the galley sink. Never had any water back up into either sink while sailing (and the boat has been sailed). Most of the time the problem is getting the AC coolant pump to prime (even with pump below water line). OBTW, condensate from my AC unit is directed into the bilge sump with the main bilge pump moving it overboard.
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John K Kudera
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Dave Kelton
But!
I agree that a siphon isn't necessary when the seacock is BELOW the waterline, but on an outlet where the thruhull is Sometimes above and below the waterline it may make a difference. The scenario would be, normally, water is flowing out above the waterline. Now the boat heels over, still flowing water out. Now the outflow stops. I think you will now find that a siphon effect will probably occur. I'd really check that one out. Ever notice that vents and bilge pump outlets are really high on the hull, plus have a loop ABOVE the thruhull?
I agree that a siphon isn't necessary when the seacock is BELOW the waterline, but on an outlet where the thruhull is Sometimes above and below the waterline it may make a difference. The scenario would be, normally, water is flowing out above the waterline. Now the boat heels over, still flowing water out. Now the outflow stops. I think you will now find that a siphon effect will probably occur. I'd really check that one out. Ever notice that vents and bilge pump outlets are really high on the hull, plus have a loop ABOVE the thruhull?
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John K Kudera
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John K Kudera
Higher
I appreciate your thoughts Dave, But I neglected to write that I am installing Mermaid's device for sucking the condensate from the drip pan, and when that is installed, the thru hull will be lower than the device, and there is no reason I cannot install a vented loop. between the hull and the device. However the installers that I talked to in the last few weeks claim there is no problem running the hose from the a/c direct to the thru hull. John
I appreciate your thoughts Dave, But I neglected to write that I am installing Mermaid's device for sucking the condensate from the drip pan, and when that is installed, the thru hull will be lower than the device, and there is no reason I cannot install a vented loop. between the hull and the device. However the installers that I talked to in the last few weeks claim there is no problem running the hose from the a/c direct to the thru hull. John
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DJ
Water into where?
Dave, If water does go into the thruhull (normally above the water line) when boat heels, where would it go? Out the intake thruhull at the other end? With an intake to a head system, siphoned water would go into the bowl and eventually flood the boat if the top of the bowl is located below the water line. In a bilge pump system, water would fill up the bilge and eventually the boat. With an AC system, the water has no place to go. Think of the cooling system as a single piece of hose that connects two thruhulls. Even if both are below the water line, the water has no place to go. If you are lucky enough to have an AC system that you can use underway, I am sure the coolant pump can move cooling water through the system even with the exit thruhull under a foot or so of water. There may be a problem with the removal of condensation that collects on all AC units (moisture collects on cold things). Most units use an open pan to collect this condensation. Some systems get rid of the condensation by a siphon system that injecting it into the exit stream of the cooling water. I had a problem on my small self-contained unit that used this method. The AC unit and the collection pan was below where the cooling water exited the boat. Instead of the condensation being removed by this siphon system, the cooling water would flood the open pan. Solved the problem by closing off the injection point and draining the condensate into the main bilge by a hose. It is surprising how much moisture even a small unit removes. Hope this makes things clearer, DJ
Dave, If water does go into the thruhull (normally above the water line) when boat heels, where would it go? Out the intake thruhull at the other end? With an intake to a head system, siphoned water would go into the bowl and eventually flood the boat if the top of the bowl is located below the water line. In a bilge pump system, water would fill up the bilge and eventually the boat. With an AC system, the water has no place to go. Think of the cooling system as a single piece of hose that connects two thruhulls. Even if both are below the water line, the water has no place to go. If you are lucky enough to have an AC system that you can use underway, I am sure the coolant pump can move cooling water through the system even with the exit thruhull under a foot or so of water. There may be a problem with the removal of condensation that collects on all AC units (moisture collects on cold things). Most units use an open pan to collect this condensation. Some systems get rid of the condensation by a siphon system that injecting it into the exit stream of the cooling water. I had a problem on my small self-contained unit that used this method. The AC unit and the collection pan was below where the cooling water exited the boat. Instead of the condensation being removed by this siphon system, the cooling water would flood the open pan. Solved the problem by closing off the injection point and draining the condensate into the main bilge by a hose. It is surprising how much moisture even a small unit removes. Hope this makes things clearer, DJ
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