H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need Help

[Faded501s]

I've searched but can't figure this out. Is there any good How-To posts on removing the radial drive wheel or dropping the rudder on the H33C (81). I looked everywhere and have read/re-read all of the Edson publications and can't figure out how to disassemble the radial drive wheel so I can drop my rudder.

It seems that there should be 2 screws near the outer lip that hold the 2 pieces of wheel together...the holes are there but there were no screws. I even disconnected the cables and tapped the wheel lightly with a hammer but the 2 pieces seem stuck together. I'm really starting to feel like a moron. Anyone help?

 

[rardiH36]

In the off chance that the Edson publications you have don't include the Yacht
Specialties years (which you may or may not have -- I don't know), here is a Yacht Specialties manual pdf in case you haven't found it.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Re: H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need

After taking off the cables look at the rim. If memory serves there should be some holes in it that give you access to the bolt and nut heads. You can use a socket with extensions.
Alternately it could have an access hole in the top which will only show a bolt head

 

[Ken Palmer]

Re: H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need

I had several posts years ago on dropping the rudder on the H33. I even had photos posted on what they used to call the photo forum, but I cannot find those.

Here is a copy of one of my posts:
Yes, you can tighten the rudder post nuts while in the water. Those nuts do not hold the rudder up. There is a collar around the rudder post higher up that holds it. There is also the wheel holding the steering cables.As I mentioned in the photo forum, those nuts may be frozen in place on your 20 year old boat. Give them a good soaking with stuff from your local automotive parts store. Let sit for a while, then turn the bottom nut clockwise. This is the locking nut, and may take a few taps from a small hammer and chisel, or a couple wrenches. This is a very tight area to work in, so long handles are out. I used a large pair of channel-lock pliers.Once the bottom nut has turned a turn or so, turn the larger top nut clockwise and snug it up. This compresses the stuffing material, and should stop the leak. Tighten the locking nut when finished, and check it after a day or so. If you can't get the leak to stop, you may end up replacing the flax. I would hold off doing that until the boat is pulled out of the water. Your bilge pump should be able to handle so leakage from the rudder stuffing box.Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty

Do a search using the tools in the Hunter Owners Web using "rudder" as the search word and fill in the rest of the filters. You will come up with a lot of information.

I found all of the photos on my hard drive. Send me your e-mail address and I will send them to you. My e-mail is kpalmer@lakeontariosailing.com.

 

[Jim Legere]

The radial drive on my H37C should be the same as yours. To the best of my recollection: 4 hex head bolts (1/2"?) on the collar that clamps the disk to the rudder shaft (2 each side, vertically). One long (9/16"?) hex head bolt + nut & washer through the collar and the rudder shaft (looks like it was added at the Hunter factory as the drillng was not quite true...) 2 small hex head (7/16"?) bolts + nuts on the underside of the outer rim of the disk. These hold the outer rim together at the split line and may be the "missing ones" in your case. Two "adjusting" eye bolts that attach the cables to the disk. After all these are removed, the disk may still be frozen on the rudder shaft, if it has not been apart for many years. A plastic dead-blow hammer or a rubber mallet may be required to pursuade it to come apart. Good luck!

 

[Faded501s]

Re: H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need

Thanks all for your replies and insight. I've learned so much on this forum (searching leads to many different tangents but sometimes not exactly what I'm looking for). Unfortunately, I believe what is going on is what I suspected and praying was not the case. I believe the keyed collar is held together by 4 bolts. It didn't make sense but I thought (was hoping) that they were only some kind of pin. I've seen a lot of crapped-up hex bolts in my day but it looks like someone spent a lot of time hammering these to a nice uniform pancake shape : (

Again, you guys are awesome! Thanks for the help!

 

[Sailorjack]

I removed the quadrant on my 37C a few years back in order to drop the rudder for repairs. Jim has described the process I went through to get mine off. The amount of corrosion between the aluminum quadrant and the SS rudder post was considerable and it took some pounding to get it all apart. I had to cut some of the bolts as they were frozen in the quadrant. There was some rebuilding of the quadrant as well before it all went back into the boat.

Jim the bolt through the quadrant and rudder post on mine is not drilled perpendicular to the post. It looks like it was done after the quadrant was installed. At least Hunter was consistent.

Good luck with the rudder removal.

 

[rhythmsurfer]

Re: H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need

I replaced the rudder on my H36. It is Yacht specialties I think. I have several photos but I can't post until Thurs or Friday. My collar was "seized". I had use a hacksaw to get it off and a machine shop to make me a new one.
Tony

 

[Sylvain]

Re: H33C Removing Radial Drive Wheel- Dropping Rudder -Need

I just did this in May. My packing nut was corroded beyond saving. I had posted some photos. It's not a big job other than being in a confined space.
The capstan comes off easily once the cables are removed. Make sure you label the cables so you don't assemble them backward as I did. There's a bronze retaining nut that holds the shaft up in place. Before taking it out, I recommend cleaning the shaft with some sandpaper (180 or 220) and removed any grit. I had to taper the top of the shaft with a grinder before installing the nut back as the edged were sharp and scored the bronze making it impossible to slide down the shaft.