- Status
- Not open for further replies.
B
bill shakun
H
Harry Gafney
R
Rod Leonard
Compression Post
Harry, Whats happening? I have had my 31' new since 1987. When the boat was new I noticed what appeared to be the head liner being crushed at the compression post. Hunter rep was in town took a look and said it was a small void difference between the liner deck & post. "common problem on this model", he said. They caulked the post around the top for appearance 12 yrs ago. I have never had any no problems and we race this boat so if there was a chance for failure we would have found it been in 60mph winds and real 15' Lake Michigan Waves. Last year I removed the post for new instruments and did find some weathering at the top of compression post from moisture coming through the wire chase. Post was solid just weather checked. Hope this helps
Harry, Whats happening? I have had my 31' new since 1987. When the boat was new I noticed what appeared to be the head liner being crushed at the compression post. Hunter rep was in town took a look and said it was a small void difference between the liner deck & post. "common problem on this model", he said. They caulked the post around the top for appearance 12 yrs ago. I have never had any no problems and we race this boat so if there was a chance for failure we would have found it been in 60mph winds and real 15' Lake Michigan Waves. Last year I removed the post for new instruments and did find some weathering at the top of compression post from moisture coming through the wire chase. Post was solid just weather checked. Hope this helps
H
Harry Gafney
Response to Rod
Rod, Thanks for your comments. The top of my compression post also seems fine except that its moved forward about half an inch. I think the problem is at the base, where it sits on the fiber glass beam. That beam is compressing so that the gel coat is buldging outward. My guess is that something under that beam is rotting. Took photos and sent them to Hunter, but as yet haven't heard what they think. Let me know if you have any further thoughts on this, because I like the boat and want to keep it. Thanks again, Harry
Rod, Thanks for your comments. The top of my compression post also seems fine except that its moved forward about half an inch. I think the problem is at the base, where it sits on the fiber glass beam. That beam is compressing so that the gel coat is buldging outward. My guess is that something under that beam is rotting. Took photos and sent them to Hunter, but as yet haven't heard what they think. Let me know if you have any further thoughts on this, because I like the boat and want to keep it. Thanks again, Harry
R
Rod Leonard
Harry
I was real concerned when the boat was new " must be one of those pride things". But after 12 years I'm convienced everyting is okay. I think the Hunter Rep that looked at mine was Eddie from Customer Service it was 12 years ago. Love the Boat just bought a bigger one.
I was real concerned when the boat was new " must be one of those pride things". But after 12 years I'm convienced everyting is okay. I think the Hunter Rep that looked at mine was Eddie from Customer Service it was 12 years ago. Love the Boat just bought a bigger one.
B
Bob Rutland
compression post inspection
our 84 H31 was showing the same signs as your boat. what you need to do is remove the teak that covers the back side of the compression post(this is also the head door jam). when i did this on my boat i found the compression post to be solid at the top and bottom, but totaly rotten in the middel! this was a disaster waiting to happen! i replaced the bad post with a cut-to-fit pressure treated 4x4. it's been a year and some heavy duty sailing since, so far so good. Bob Rutland S/V Lady Di II
our 84 H31 was showing the same signs as your boat. what you need to do is remove the teak that covers the back side of the compression post(this is also the head door jam). when i did this on my boat i found the compression post to be solid at the top and bottom, but totaly rotten in the middel! this was a disaster waiting to happen! i replaced the bad post with a cut-to-fit pressure treated 4x4. it's been a year and some heavy duty sailing since, so far so good. Bob Rutland S/V Lady Di II
Ya gotta fix it.....
Harry: If you want to sell the boat you would pretty much need to fix it anyway. If you do not have any rot in the crossmember or the bulkhead this is NOT a terrible fix. You should be able to have this done in the $2-3k range. These are really sweet boats aren't they.
Harry: If you want to sell the boat you would pretty much need to fix it anyway. If you do not have any rot in the crossmember or the bulkhead this is NOT a terrible fix. You should be able to have this done in the $2-3k range. These are really sweet boats aren't they.
J
Jay Hill
OH brother, sounds like a chore
Well, since I've finally gotten pretty much everything else done on the boat (yeah, right) I guess it's time to check this as well. I've got the same "distorted" headliner/overhead crack as described in previous threads. I saw the post about checking it from the forward side by removing the head door facing. Only problem is that the teak veneer piece is glued to the compression post. HOW do I get this off without major desctruction? Solvent suggestions? Any other suggestions? Since the compression post is definitely serving to hold up the mast, I assume (oh no) the mast must be unstepped to perform any compression post replacement work. Is this true or can I just ease up on all the rigging? Signed, Praying for Perfect Pressure Post
Well, since I've finally gotten pretty much everything else done on the boat (yeah, right) I guess it's time to check this as well. I've got the same "distorted" headliner/overhead crack as described in previous threads. I saw the post about checking it from the forward side by removing the head door facing. Only problem is that the teak veneer piece is glued to the compression post. HOW do I get this off without major desctruction? Solvent suggestions? Any other suggestions? Since the compression post is definitely serving to hold up the mast, I assume (oh no) the mast must be unstepped to perform any compression post replacement work. Is this true or can I just ease up on all the rigging? Signed, Praying for Perfect Pressure Post
D
Don
Did it
I had the same problem when I bought my H31 - rot in the post. Rather than unstep the mast at that time, I used 2 2x4's 1-2 feet shorter than the post, and a small hydraulic jack. Stood the 2x4's beside the post and clamed 'em to the box around the paost. Jacked the 2x4's up tight, with padding at top and bottom. I had also eased up on the rigging some too. Worked like a charm. I subsequently unstepped the mast and resealed everything underneath. That's the culprit for all this damange. Pretty unbelievable that some engineer never realized the problems they would cause.
I had the same problem when I bought my H31 - rot in the post. Rather than unstep the mast at that time, I used 2 2x4's 1-2 feet shorter than the post, and a small hydraulic jack. Stood the 2x4's beside the post and clamed 'em to the box around the paost. Jacked the 2x4's up tight, with padding at top and bottom. I had also eased up on the rigging some too. Worked like a charm. I subsequently unstepped the mast and resealed everything underneath. That's the culprit for all this damange. Pretty unbelievable that some engineer never realized the problems they would cause.
A
Allan Hadad
Glued to the Post? Are you sure?
Jay, Are you sure that the door jamb is glued to the compression post? It is definitely screwed to it. You have to remove the plugs that are hiding the screws and then it should come off. Either that or there is enough compression that it is being held in place by the overhead pushing down on it. Once the screws are out, you should be able to bow it in the middle and remove it exposing the wire channel in the post and being able to inspect the front side of the beam. If yours is glued on, that would be the first one I've heard of that way. Then you would have to pull the mast to disconnect the wires and then the post could come off leaving the wires behind. I hope that is not your situation.
Jay, Are you sure that the door jamb is glued to the compression post? It is definitely screwed to it. You have to remove the plugs that are hiding the screws and then it should come off. Either that or there is enough compression that it is being held in place by the overhead pushing down on it. Once the screws are out, you should be able to bow it in the middle and remove it exposing the wire channel in the post and being able to inspect the front side of the beam. If yours is glued on, that would be the first one I've heard of that way. Then you would have to pull the mast to disconnect the wires and then the post could come off leaving the wires behind. I hope that is not your situation.
J
Jay Hill
I'll Look Again...
...but from every bit of inspection I have done, the teak veneer pieces are glued on, BUT I am not sure if I checked the one on the head door jam. I'll definitely let you know.
...but from every bit of inspection I have done, the teak veneer pieces are glued on, BUT I am not sure if I checked the one on the head door jam. I'll definitely let you know.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.