H30 Gray Portlight Replacement Options

[malyea]

The companionway/seahood removal and rebedding went well so now it's on to the Gray portlights...all 9 of them.

Three of them leak and most of the others show evidence of cracking at hinge points, frames, etc - since 'Bout Time is an '82 model, I guess they have a life span of about 29 years...

I was just about to put my order in to this sites store, but want to ask - are replacement Gray portlights really my best option? Are they currently made to a decent standard for a plastic portlight to use in a boat that coastal cruises and maybe the Bahamas?

...or are there better options?

I'd prefer not to have to resize the hole with glass work and exterior cabin trunk paint; I'd like to 'simply remove and replace' with same size ports...but I want to be happy with the product.

Thoughts?

 

[Steve Dion]

Considering 29 years, I don't think that there is much to bitch about (but everyone seems to complain none the less). The new Bomar/Gray ports are a little different than the originals (as I remember), so you may need to make some additional adjustments.

New Found Metals has some other port-lights that can be useds as direct replacements (depending on the port sizes) and the prices are not a lot different for the Bomar/Gray.

The ports are their Tri-max. http://www.newfoundmetals.com/catalog/trimatrix1.html

You should get some feedback from some of the owners who have used them.

 

[Nelsonhow]

The ports on my 83 H-30 are fogged and scratched but I'm not up to replacing them at this time. Has anyone tried the automotive headlight restorer method on port lights?

 

[svcrewd]

Hunter Owners site

I ordered the Bomar/Gray replacement ports from this site for my 79 H30. They were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. The price was less than the Bomar site. I replaced the four saloon ports in one day and the two v-berth ports the next day.

 

[rardiH36]

Yes, plastic polish products will improve. However, the effect isn't lasting. Reapplication and rubbing is required every few months. But after the effort of the first polishing, subsequent reapplications don't take very long.

I found that first wet sanding with a 1500 wet/dry sand paper, then 2500 grit quickened the removal of the oxidation on the outside surface of the ports. Then follow with the plastic polish.

Same method restores hatches as well.

 

[Steve Dion]

Check out Aurora Marine Products. They make several different type of products for boat maintenance. Their plexiglass cleaner worked very well on our ports. The stuff is two parts (cleaner & sealer). It has been a couple of weeks and the ports are still lookin' good!

http://www.auroramarine.com/homex.html

http://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/catalog/01190/index.html

 

[malyea]

Gray Portlight Replacement

I ordered the Bomar/Gray replacement ports from this site for my 79 H30. They were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. The price was less than the Bomar site. I replaced the four saloon ports in one day and the two v-berth ports the next day.

Great - that's encouraging!

How long ago did you buy the replacement portlights and are you happy with the quality of the product and it's construction; is it at least as good as the original?

What bedding caulk did you use? What's the best to use if you did it again?

What tips can you pass along that you learned doing the replacement?

Thanks to all for the info!!!

 

[Don Crowther]

I to replaced some of my opening ports this year. I bought them from SBO as a direct replacement for the old ones. They were just a hair larger so I had to grind down some of the fiberglass to get them to fit. I'm not happy with the style of port they only attach from the inside with a beauty/trim ring on the outside. That leaves you with having to seal around the port on the outside and then hide the seal with the trim. When I replace the rest of the opening ports it will be with the ones from Newfound metals. I like the idea of having the gasket on the outside of the cabin and sandwiched between two frames. Just my two cents worth.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Chalk up one advantage for the old Cherubinis. Whatever our portlight sizes they seemed to become the standard. Except for the deadlights all the portlights are available in exactly the original size. Then things started to change with the H34.

Unfortunately when I bought my portlights in 2000 Newfound Metals hadn't got the word. I had to heavily modify the holes. As in make them smaller! One year later he had the right sizes and a stainless model. :cry:

 

[svcrewd]

I bought the ports about two years ago and installed them last spring. They are as good as the originals (but they are still plastic frames.) When the boat is hot, like mid-afternoon, we loosen the dogs and after a few seconds the ports will pop open. That way we are not prying on the seal.

I figured the original bedding was 5200 so I sprayed the outside with the 5200 remover spray (sorry, I can't recall the brand name.) After waiting the amount of time specified on the can I pried the outside frame away from the hull with a metal putty knife. Be careful and there will be no gelcoat damage. None of the frames were leaking into the plywood so there were no repairs needed.

I used 4200 to rebed the outside frame. No leaks after a year.

I printed out the replacement sequence posted on this site and merely followed that. Sorry, but the steps were documented so well that I have no other advice to offer. I had my wife hold the port inside the boat while I assembled it from the outside. It is much easier to do with two sets of hands.

Good luck! It really isn't as difficult as I had anticipated but I had no structural leakage either.

 

[malyea]

Thanks to all for the pros, cons, tips, etc (Great forum we have here!)

After much deliberation (...half bottle of Pusser's...) I've decided to order the replacement plastic Gray's and hope for another good 29 years out of 'em.

Now I'm just shopping for the best price.

I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[rivettw]

Malyea,
Before you replace with the all plastic Grays, reconsider the Trimatrix ports with New found Metals. I just now replaced all the ports (11) on my 37' cutter Fantome with them and they fit in all the openings with minimal adjustments (had to grind a little for the port drains outside) all the dogs and hinges are stainless and they come with a gasket for the outside so you don't need to seal. Did anyway with 4200 just for kicks. They were cheaper than most of the others I looked at. Good luck.
Wally

 

[malyea]

9 new Gray portlights greeted me from my front porch last night. Time to get busy....!

The small print on the portlight label states "seal with silicon based compound". Research indicates it's because polyurethane and polysulfide compounds react badly with plastic - and Gray portlights are definitely plastic.

Are all silicon compounds marketed for marine use created equall - specifically is the 3M brand identical to the generic West Marine brand?

I'd have liked to use 4200 but it's not silcone based...and while the spigot mounts mechanically to the inside cabin wall with screws (thereby not requiring much adhesive in the bedding compound) the outside trim ring has no screw holes and is only glued to the spigot and exterior cabin sidewall.....will the silicon adhere well enough to keep the trim ring in place and sealed?

Thanks

 

[Ed Schenck]

Will silicone keep the trim ring attached? Yes, no problem but don't use too much. I replaced my Grays with bronze NFMs and used a 4200-like product. Since then I have used silicone with much success throughout the boat. I wish I had used it for the NFMs. When I pulled the Grays out the original silicone was still working. The small space between the spigot and the cabinside on the outside is what needs to be carefully filled.

 

[malyea]

Thanks Ed,always appreciate your presence and experience on this site. Looking forward to getting this project done so I can get started on the next....and the next....