Checked the archives on this topic and not much other than reference to B. Toss rigging tips. You 290/306 owners have any calculated preferences on what angle to set the rake on this boat for all around wind conditions ? (since its not easily adjustable). I noticed my actual waterline versus the factory paintstripe are not parallel (boat sits lower in stern than bow), and I wonder if I'm over-raked to stern. I never questioned my current setting because my weather helm seems 'normal'. On steady breeze days I often use the wheel brake and can easily balance the helm with sail trim. thanks!
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Mast Rake
I retired from racing (20 yrs)about 10 years ago, but I do not think this stuff has changed much. But it could, if you are talking about high tech sailcloth and carbon spars. If you can balance as you say, I would think you have the ideal setup for cruising and pleasure sailing. I doubt the waterline has as much to do with mast rake as it does with weight distribution and the waterline being properly applied. There is a relationship between weather helm and mast rake, in that with the mast back, one can more easily flatten out the main, reducing its power and enhancing speed. The ideal indicator is wrinkles along the luff of the main due to the flatness of the sail and the looseness caused by the rake. It is possible to achieve much the same effect with the traveler, sheet, vang, and cunningham. In my opinion, the main inpact of raking the mast is to put the forestay under higher tension, keeping it straight and thereby increasing the effeciency of the foresail on a beat. On a reach or run the rake will be progressively let out to allow a fuller foresail. A "real" racing boat will have running backstay(s) (runners), which are easily adjustable for this purpose.
I retired from racing (20 yrs)about 10 years ago, but I do not think this stuff has changed much. But it could, if you are talking about high tech sailcloth and carbon spars. If you can balance as you say, I would think you have the ideal setup for cruising and pleasure sailing. I doubt the waterline has as much to do with mast rake as it does with weight distribution and the waterline being properly applied. There is a relationship between weather helm and mast rake, in that with the mast back, one can more easily flatten out the main, reducing its power and enhancing speed. The ideal indicator is wrinkles along the luff of the main due to the flatness of the sail and the looseness caused by the rake. It is possible to achieve much the same effect with the traveler, sheet, vang, and cunningham. In my opinion, the main inpact of raking the mast is to put the forestay under higher tension, keeping it straight and thereby increasing the effeciency of the foresail on a beat. On a reach or run the rake will be progressively let out to allow a fuller foresail. A "real" racing boat will have running backstay(s) (runners), which are easily adjustable for this purpose.
Mast Rake
I apologize for a mind f--t yesterday, I should have added that runners are a further enhancement to the addition of a mechanical device to adjust backstay tension. The simple turnbuckle is fine for a permanent setting. The single backstay can be infinitely adjusted by the addition to the lower end of a shortened backstay of either a set of blocks with a jam cleat at the bottom so that one can easily pull up and secure the line at the desired setting or a choke applied to a split backstay which pulls the sides together as it is brought down, accomplishing the same thing. A more expensive option, more practical on larger boats, is a hydraulic adjuster. Runners are normally attached to the mast at the spreaders and prevent the over-application of rake and consequent buckling of the mast. Additionally, runners provide support at a second point on the mast during use of large headsails or a spinnaker. The disadvantage of runners is that they often wind up being placed within the swing radius of the boom, requiring careful crew work on each tack to avoid snagging the boom on the runner. This would require coming head to wind or tacking again to clear it. At the least, this would be costly in time and could possibly put the boat in a position of fouling another. Neither, a good thing at the layline or when rounding a mark.
I apologize for a mind f--t yesterday, I should have added that runners are a further enhancement to the addition of a mechanical device to adjust backstay tension. The simple turnbuckle is fine for a permanent setting. The single backstay can be infinitely adjusted by the addition to the lower end of a shortened backstay of either a set of blocks with a jam cleat at the bottom so that one can easily pull up and secure the line at the desired setting or a choke applied to a split backstay which pulls the sides together as it is brought down, accomplishing the same thing. A more expensive option, more practical on larger boats, is a hydraulic adjuster. Runners are normally attached to the mast at the spreaders and prevent the over-application of rake and consequent buckling of the mast. Additionally, runners provide support at a second point on the mast during use of large headsails or a spinnaker. The disadvantage of runners is that they often wind up being placed within the swing radius of the boom, requiring careful crew work on each tack to avoid snagging the boom on the runner. This would require coming head to wind or tacking again to clear it. At the least, this would be costly in time and could possibly put the boat in a position of fouling another. Neither, a good thing at the layline or when rounding a mark.
Mast Rake for B and R rig
Hi brian, I have a Hunter 29.5 with B&R rig with no back stay. The process is totally different then it is for regular rigs. I beleive you have the same set-up I do for mast. I got a new mast for my boat last summer ( don't ask) and I ordered the Hunter owners manual from the factory for it. It came with a very simple and detailled section on steping the mast for the first time and easy tuning for B&R mast. My mast had to be raked then bent using the swep-back spreaders and stays. It worked well and my boat is fairly neutral, no major helm one way or an other if sails are reduced or ajusted according to wind situation. 1-you could do a search on B&R rig tuning on Google 2- Call hunter for the Manual (it was cheap) 3-If you want, I could fax you those pages rather then try to explain all the steps and the chronology for it in a few lines. Send me an email with your fax # if you want it. ( you will find my email in the Hunter owners registry) Mario Langlois Aylmer, Canada c'est Ma VIE Hunter 29.5 1995
Hi brian, I have a Hunter 29.5 with B&R rig with no back stay. The process is totally different then it is for regular rigs. I beleive you have the same set-up I do for mast. I got a new mast for my boat last summer ( don't ask) and I ordered the Hunter owners manual from the factory for it. It came with a very simple and detailled section on steping the mast for the first time and easy tuning for B&R mast. My mast had to be raked then bent using the swep-back spreaders and stays. It worked well and my boat is fairly neutral, no major helm one way or an other if sails are reduced or ajusted according to wind situation. 1-you could do a search on B&R rig tuning on Google 2- Call hunter for the Manual (it was cheap) 3-If you want, I could fax you those pages rather then try to explain all the steps and the chronology for it in a few lines. Send me an email with your fax # if you want it. ( you will find my email in the Hunter owners registry) Mario Langlois Aylmer, Canada c'est Ma VIE Hunter 29.5 1995
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