H27 "cooler"

[Jim Rice]

Does anyone know how much space is between the fiberglass liner for the cooler and the framing around it? I would like to blow in insulating foam (as the box seems to have no insulation now), but need to know how much space is around it to judge how much foam to use. Rather than drill thru the box from the inside (it works--a friend did it on his Islander, but it's ugly), I'd like to go around it from inside the fuel locker, under the sink, etc. The more space, the easier it will be to get to all sides from a minimum number of holes. Thank you to anyone who can help.

 

[Doug Buerkle]

Foaming Stuff.

I spent eight years with a foam molding company and although I have no idea how much room there is around the cooler box I do know about pouring foam.1) Urethane Foams produce a lot of heat when curing and large volumes can even catch fire. 2) It would be best to pour foam in "lifts" of about 2 to 4 inches. This would require multiple pours but would be preferable to setting your boat on fire. Filling the cooler with water can help absorb some of the heat during the foaming process.3) Foam can produce a lot of pressure when rising. This pressure can distort 2-inch thick aluminum molds so the fiberglass walls of your cooler would provide little resistance. The more foam the more pressure the reaction will create.4) Foam (for your application) needs to free rise, if the area you are foaming is restrictive (no ample exit) the foam will "pack up" creating pressure and increasing the density of the cured foam. For insulation applications the density needs to be as low as possible, the standard products on the market have a free rise density of 2 PCF (or less) you want to keep the final cure density as close to that as possible. Allow the first pour to cure (1 hr) before proceeding to minimize compacting the previous layer and reducing heat build up.5) Foam will readily adhere to the previous layer of foam (or anything else it comes in contact with) so don't worry about foaming in a single pour or even in the same year. Silicone on surfaces around the pour you don't want foam on will help in removal of spilled foam.6) Temperature will affect the reaction; colder temps will create a higher density. I would recommend materials & air temp of 60 to 80 degrees.7) Foam is first a liquid and any holes / cracks / openings in the cavity being filled will leak and you could end up with foam in your bilge. If it can't hold water it won't hold foam. Spending some extra time now can save you a lot of time later.Hope this helps.

 

[Warren Renninger]

No Foam

I have a 1980 H27 and had similar problem of no insulation. I put 1 1/2 inch fiberglass insulation around it and it helps a lot. I used the kind contractors use to make air conditioning ducts. Fiberglass with a foil covering. I glued it in place and sealed the edges with the aluminum tape they use when making ducts. Styrofoam would work well too. I also insulated the engine compartment wall because I was getting a lot of heat from the engine. Solid insulation or sheet foam may be the way to go.