H27 Compression Post Repair - Opinions??

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Chuck Petty

I have serious compression post problems... The bottom 2 inches is missing... The problem was caused by water coming in through the wiring at the mast step. Of course it is the worst case scenerio... COMENTS REQUESTED! I am currently in the process of rebuilding the cabin floor... Nest step is the compression post. I am going to go with replacing it with treated lumber, laminated for stability as illustrated in the attached "picture" That is unless somebody tells me that I am crazy (stupid, uninformed, whatever) for doing it this way... Next step will be the core around the mast step... more on that later in the project... I will post pictures if I can find my digital camera... The kids may have hocked it to buy drugs or pay tuition.... And yes I am extreamly envious of those of you are ready to splash....
 

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Dale E. Baker

Check the archives

One of the guys with an H-33 just had to replace his post for similiar reasons. Discussion included what material to use, aluminum, galvanized, or stainless (he went with stainless); how to do the base; etc. Also several other postings over the years. You'll probably find what you need there.
 
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Carl Foster

Archives

As Dale Baker said,check archives as many of us '27 owners on the site have had to go down this same route and posted our trials and tribulations.If you run into lack of specific coverage of particular detail, there are many who will answer up.
 
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David Foster

Treated wood? Overbuilt?

I don't know what kind of treated wood you are considering, but I would definitely advise against it. I don't believe that treating adds strength, and most treatment compounds outgas poison that can collect inside the cabin. Besides they don't look so great. Finally, the water solution is to keep the water out of the hull, and certainly in the bilge away from the compression post. As I remember, the compression post in our '77 h27 is two teak boards set a right angles. They are approximately full sized 1 by 3 or 4. (Sorry I am two hours away from the boat, and not planning a visit any time soon.) You can substitute a hardwood of similar strength, making up with thickness if need be. Oak is my first thought, but I hope someone more knowledgable on wood will suggest the best one. Picking a good solid wood will also make finishing it easier. Some have used stainless, but I think that is overkill for the mast compression stress on our 27 foot boat (around 2 tons with rigging tuned properly.) Also, I would rather work with wood. While you are at it, I would also suggest that you check the wood in your grid. If the boat sat with water soaking the foot of the compression post (which rests on the floor in our '77 model) then it may have penetrated the wood in the grid, and caused rot there. Lot's more work if true, but now is the time to find out! Good luck, David Lady Lillie
 
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Chuck Petty

Thanks David

David (and All) My choice of wood verses metal is primarily based om my skill and tool setset. I can work with wood, not metal. I appreciate your comment about the chemicals in the wood although I have received several recommendations to use this... he existing post is a teak 3.5" x 3.5" with a notch cut out for the wiring... With the rot, the only thing holding it up was the teak plywood trim. I am considering oak, but am trying to balance cost with strength requirements. I note that some of the compression posts referred to in the archives for Hunters of this era were fir. The key here, regardles of materials is to KEEP OUT WATER! I am neck deep in going into the grid at this point. There is some water damage to the sole. I am cutting into this area this weekend. I am also rebuilding the head joinery. Mast step needs to be rebuilt also. Water damage again.... Your previous posts and responses have given me enough info for that part. Many thanks for your (as usual) insightful response. Chuck S/V Following Sea
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Pressure-treated lumber is the WORST option

The vast majority of commercially-available pressure-treated lumber is yellow pine-- about the single LEAST dimensionally-stable wood out there. For example, plain yellow pine is NOT approved for wall studs and floor joists under the CABO construction codes because it tends to change dimensions and especially change in inconsistent increments. It is only approved for use in decks and for ground contact (including lying flat between masonry basements and fir flooring joists). It is extremely poisonous on contact, being loaded with nifty little carcinogens to kill bacteria. Further, pressure-treated wood is dyed green to hide the fact that it IS green-- it is NOT kiln-dried and WILL shrink. A compression post out of yellow pine, even pressure-treated, is a contradiction in terms. I guarantee it will be about 3/8" shorter than it was when you put it in within 3 weeks... and thus your deck will be sagging. I've seen lengths of about 5 or 6 ft shrink up to an inch and more. No kidding. I am rebuilding my compression post using white spruce, the best option I could find to Sitka spruce which is what it should be. Sitka spruce has a very high compression-load-to-weight ratio and has been used for wooden spars for 150 years or more. The J Boats of the 1920s had spruce spars. Properly treated, spruce will last decades. The part I am making is made of three sticks of spruce, 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 (size of a 2x4), two laminated aft of the main bulkhead and one in front of it (where the sliding door was, which I replaced with a regular one). The two aft of the bulkhead are laminated together using WEST epoxy and screwed dry to the bulkhead. They stand on a new mahogany cabin-sole joists (2 pcs of 1" stock laminated together) to avoid having the end-grain stand on the bottom of the bilge. The forward one stands on a single joist and gets screwed through the bulkhead into the double one. At the upper end all three pieces press up against a piece of 7/8" mahogany flat against the overhead, again so the end-grain does not press by itself into the fibreglass. The mahogany overhead piece in the main cabin extends aft to provide a place from which to hang the table lantern. I am not done this yet and do not have pics but when I do I shall post them. Again: DO NOT USE PRESSURE-TREATED FOR ANYTHING ON YOUR BOAT. Concerned people may EMail me with questions. JC 2 CherubiniYachts@aol.com
 
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Ed A

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Sep 27, 2008
333
Hunter 37c Tampa
pressure treated wood and glass dont mix

I did not see any comments on pressure treated wood and fiberglass. Never but never use p.t. wood where you are going to glass in or cover wood either. the resin Will not adhere well to the p.t. wood and it will delaminate!
 
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Chuck Petty

Compression Post Plan B

JC II, David, et al, Got the message, pressure treated is out. I am still going to laminate sever pieces of "something" for the core. The intent of the lamination is to provide dimensional stability. I was planning on using epoxy, I am going to face the post with teak. I want to be consistent with the rest of the wood that is not being replaced. As far as what to use for the core, it is time for more research. Traditional boat building woods (that I am aware of) include oak, mahogany, and vertical grain fir. Of these, oak would be my next guess. Spruce would be nice, but in my application it is not going to be visible and is a bit hard to find in my area. $$’s are a consideration. I am going to incorporate JC II's suggestion regarding pieces on each end so that the end grain of the post is covered. I am going to the boat now to start digging into the sole/grid issues. I would much rather be sailing………….. Chuck S/V Following Sea
 
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