H260 water holding tank

[ArcticFarx]

I have a H260 with a water issue. Last season we had quite a bit of water in the bilge after a road trip. Since then we have sealed the compression post (as that has shown up on this forum as the most probable cause) and took care of another transom crack. Last week after a particularly rough sail, we had water in the bilge again. I think the holding tank may be cracked.

I'm thinking of removing the holding tank and replacing it with a soft water bag style holding tank. Has anyone done this before with a H260 sized boat?

I'm concerned that the only way to remove the existing tank is to cut it into pieces as the hatch access is too small to remove the tank in one piece.

Any suggestions?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

First make sure the water tank IS the source of the water in your bilge. You're on a fresh water lake, so tasting it to find out if it's salty won't work for you...so the best way to find out is to go sailing again with the water tank empty. If you have water in the bilge again, check to see if your bilge pump thru-hull(s) spend much time under water...if so that could be the source. A high arch in the line from the pump to the thru-hull should solve the problem. Don't even THINK of putting a check valve in that line!

(A bit outside of my area of expertise, but I experienced the same problem on one of my own boats and thought it worth sharing.)

 

[ArcticFarx]

Thanks for the feedback. I like the idea of emplying the tank and checking for water after a few good trips out. Beats adding a load of dye to the water. OR I could add salt to the water in the tank...

The bilge thru-hull is pretty high up above the waterline. That being said, we did get battered pretty good on that side of the boat. I will take a look at adjusting the hose.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Assuming you have a marine head, the holding tank is in the rear. The rear berth wall can be removed. Take out the screws and pull from the bottom outward. It is a tight fit but can be removed. At that point, I would get a lot of folks on the cockpit and then crawl back with flashlight and then look at the transom inside with the flashlight before doing any thing else. If there is water, then the issue is the hull to deck joint behind the rub rail. If not, then follow Peggy advise and proceed at that point checking out the holding tank.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Read the subject line, Dave...He's talking about the WATER holding tank.

 

[ArcticFarx]

Yes. The fresh water tank under the V-birth.

I'll likely take a real close look a the transom scoop seam. Will need to haul out and spend some time getting that done right.

 

[Ron20324]

Read the subject line, Dave...He's talking about the WATER holding tank.

That translates to the "water tank". Delete the "holding". Nomenclature 101.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Folks;

The subject line does say water holding tank but if you read the original post, it says holding tank basically leaking into the bilge area. I hate to bust your bubble, but if you have a marine head, the marine holding tank is in the rear of the boat just behind the rear berth. the bilge is under the rear berth. The fresh water holding tank is under the v berth. I sold 25% of the production line so I know this boat oh too well.

I have a feeling that the hull to deck joint is still not completely fixed if it is determined if the holding tank behind the rear berth is not leaking. If it is I would suspect that the odors would be obvious which in this case nothing is mentioned of odors which I still suspect the transom or hull to deck joint is not completely fixed.

 

[ArcticFarx]

Thanks Crazy Dave.

My particular model does not have an installed marine head. A small portable only. I'll definitely be taking as real close look at the transom seam. I suspect the fresh water tank under the v-birth. It's a really tight space to get into to visually try to inspect and locate any cracks or leaks.

Based on (at this point in time) having some water in the front half of the boat and none in the back I suspect the tank. That being said I will have her out next week for 8 days so I should be able to get in there and have another go at rooting out the cause.

I'll update when I have something more to go on.

Thanks again.

 

[ArcticFarx]

hauled out yesterday evening and got a good look in and around the Holding Tank. Looks like I may have an issue with the thru-hull drain for the anchor locker (up on deck). It does look like there is some corrosion around the hose hole in the locker. That should be a fairly easy one to diagnos or rule (IN/OUT). Fill the anchor locker with water, and see if there are bubbles around the hose/hole as well as check in and under the v-birth for new water collecting down there.

FYI - the holding tank looks good. And looks like if I was intending to remove it, it will fit through the hatch cover in the V.

Cheers!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Artifax, your description was not clear and when you mentioned the bilge area, most of dealers would have thought the rear as the bilge pump is under the rear berth and then of course the transom.

It is very important to all to describe very clear where the problems are and what has been done. I assumed the bilge area being that under the rear berth where the bilge area is, not the V berth. .

 

[ArcticFarx]

Had the boat in the water for a week after a lengthy road trip. Ruled out the water tanks as the source of my ingress. Looks like the leak is at the transom seal. With 2 people on board there is no issue. 4-6 adults and there is water in the bilge area. She's hauled out now. Got my winter project ahead of me now.

Thanks for everyone who chimmed in.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Take the inner portion of rub rail off. You will see screws. Remove them. between the hull to deck joint is marine putty probably cracked. Take a dremel, not a grinder to take out old marine putty up to the fiberglass and then sand smooth. Put back two part epoxy and I use to repaire with Water Tite. Yes it cost more and slower to cure but the best stuff I found working on the boats particularly the water ballast. You can spray paint the area with Krylon but mask of the rest of the boat. If using gel coat make sure you get the right hardner as regular hardner is a lower temp and gel requires a higher temp hardner.

When re inserting the screws, use 5200 sealant to insure they will not back out.

Also, many refer to the fresh water tank as that since we old timers usually think of the holding tank as the crapper tank.