Has anybody made improvements to there stock trailers to allow easier centering of the boat on retreaval? I removed the outboard side PVC covered steel guide post because of the damage it was causing to the side of the boat during retreaval. Now I have had the boat get off center of the trailer so that the keel is off the carpeted bunk. In my attempt to get the boat back to deeper water (for a second shot at a straight on approach) the keel then wanted to hang up on the steel channels of the trailer. I am thinking about placing additional carpeted bunks on each side of the stock bunk with a guide "V" to help center the keel. Any comments?
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We did it
We added a V to the centerboard support and rails on the side like powerboats have. Made a huge difference!! We often launch in less than perfect condiditons and this allows us to get out any time, even in crosswinds at the ramp.
We added a V to the centerboard support and rails on the side like powerboats have. Made a huge difference!! We often launch in less than perfect condiditons and this allows us to get out any time, even in crosswinds at the ramp.
Pictures?
Nancy, Glad to here that I am not the only person who has found difficulty retreaving in a cross wind. Can you take pictures and share your modifications? Or discribe the modifications in more detail? My e-mail address is ednvirg@peoplepc.com if you want to contact me directly. Thanks
Nancy, Glad to here that I am not the only person who has found difficulty retreaving in a cross wind. Can you take pictures and share your modifications? Or discribe the modifications in more detail? My e-mail address is ednvirg@peoplepc.com if you want to contact me directly. Thanks
I've made them.
On my current trailer there is a guide and on the previous C22 I built a guide that worked very well. Below is the instructions on how I built the guide. If you want to see pictures just send me an e-mail and I'll dig some up to send to who ever is interested. I currently don't have any of the C22 mods on my web page. Its on the list. Fair winds Gerry Here is how I made a keel guide for my C22. I started with a 12’ length of 1-1/4 thin wall electrical conduit. I bent one end to a 90-degree angle leaving about 2 feet on the other side of the bend. I used the old oak bender to bend the conduit (2 oak trees close together. Then walk it around the tree.). I then fit it for height at the forward most cross beam on the trailer where the keel is at its most forward point and cut it to height. I left 3” of clearance between the guide and the hull to allow for pothole movement on the highway. I then took a clamp and clamped this end into position and had it stick straight out the back. Next I marked where to weld the rear guide support to the guide rail. I just cut it at an approximate square angle, as I don’t have a round pipe cutter for nice circular cuts. When I welded it together I filled the excess gap with weld. Sloppy but effective, besides when you grind it off to finish all welds look good. Next is the hard part. You have to make your next bend first so it angles to the rear most bunk support post. Once you get that angle you next have to make a bend upwards so it is about 3” from the wood bunk. This angle is to accommodate for when the trailer is in the water at a launch ramp. It’s not hard to do but time consuming. Especially if your trees aren’t near where you are working. Once you get those bends done, cut off the excess conduit about 1-2” longer than the rear post and then smash the end flat where it is going to be welded to the rear. All that is left is to weld it to the trailer. One thing to keep in mind when you weld is that it is thin wall conduit being welded to a heavier “C” channel. Heat the C channel more or you will burn holes in the conduit. Now just repeat the process for the other side. It took me about 8-9 hours (and about an hour accumulated swearing time) to design and construct both sides.
On my current trailer there is a guide and on the previous C22 I built a guide that worked very well. Below is the instructions on how I built the guide. If you want to see pictures just send me an e-mail and I'll dig some up to send to who ever is interested. I currently don't have any of the C22 mods on my web page. Its on the list. Fair winds Gerry Here is how I made a keel guide for my C22. I started with a 12’ length of 1-1/4 thin wall electrical conduit. I bent one end to a 90-degree angle leaving about 2 feet on the other side of the bend. I used the old oak bender to bend the conduit (2 oak trees close together. Then walk it around the tree.). I then fit it for height at the forward most cross beam on the trailer where the keel is at its most forward point and cut it to height. I left 3” of clearance between the guide and the hull to allow for pothole movement on the highway. I then took a clamp and clamped this end into position and had it stick straight out the back. Next I marked where to weld the rear guide support to the guide rail. I just cut it at an approximate square angle, as I don’t have a round pipe cutter for nice circular cuts. When I welded it together I filled the excess gap with weld. Sloppy but effective, besides when you grind it off to finish all welds look good. Next is the hard part. You have to make your next bend first so it angles to the rear most bunk support post. Once you get that angle you next have to make a bend upwards so it is about 3” from the wood bunk. This angle is to accommodate for when the trailer is in the water at a launch ramp. It’s not hard to do but time consuming. Especially if your trees aren’t near where you are working. Once you get those bends done, cut off the excess conduit about 1-2” longer than the rear post and then smash the end flat where it is going to be welded to the rear. All that is left is to weld it to the trailer. One thing to keep in mind when you weld is that it is thin wall conduit being welded to a heavier “C” channel. Heat the C channel more or you will burn holes in the conduit. Now just repeat the process for the other side. It took me about 8-9 hours (and about an hour accumulated swearing time) to design and construct both sides.
Center and pull in steps
Center and pull in steps - I have found that it works to put the trailer in fairly deep and pull the bow up close to the vee. Make sure the boat is between the metal/PVC post guides and that the lip of the boat rub rail is not directly above them. Remember to tie off and tighten the center board uphaul. Then pull the trailer out until you can see the trailer fenders, drain the ballast tank a bit and check the centering on the bunk boards. Recenter manually and retighten the center board uphaul. You may have to back into the water a bit to recenter. Pull out farther after recentering until the trailer frame is dry. Recheck the centering and if the bow is in the vee. Things should be ok but you may have to back in a bit to float the boat and recenter or winch the bow closer to the vee. This will be easier since the boat will float higher without the water ballast. This takes a bit of time but works.
Center and pull in steps - I have found that it works to put the trailer in fairly deep and pull the bow up close to the vee. Make sure the boat is between the metal/PVC post guides and that the lip of the boat rub rail is not directly above them. Remember to tie off and tighten the center board uphaul. Then pull the trailer out until you can see the trailer fenders, drain the ballast tank a bit and check the centering on the bunk boards. Recenter manually and retighten the center board uphaul. You may have to back into the water a bit to recenter. Pull out farther after recentering until the trailer frame is dry. Recheck the centering and if the bow is in the vee. Things should be ok but you may have to back in a bit to float the boat and recenter or winch the bow closer to the vee. This will be easier since the boat will float higher without the water ballast. This takes a bit of time but works.
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