H260 from 2001 the "T-ball" connector pulled away from wires of jib, up top, what replacement connector is used now, and any chance for self fix if buy $50 of tools and parts?? I found 1 image which made me think it may be complex due to companies not making whatever Hunter was using in 2001. - D
H260 from 2001 the "T-ball" connector pulled away from wires of jib, up top, what replacement connector is used now, and any chance for self fix??
- Thread starter Davenport
- Start date
T-Terminal types are typically used on the shrouds and much be connected to the wire with a swaging machine or with a Norse or Sea-Loc connector.
The photo you uploaded looks like part of a jib furler. I am also not sure what you mean by "wires of jib."
The photo you uploaded looks like part of a jib furler. I am also not sure what you mean by "wires of jib."
Sorry. My h260 had a jib furler added.. Umm, after pulling apart there are dozen yarn sized wires exposed and the T-ball connector is loose inside the laid down mast. I can fish out the connector. I am guessing there use to be a thick metal "swag" that clamped on the wires to hold them to the T-ball.... Are there any photos around of what the upper forestay looked like on the standard h260? There are few photos of upper part of mast, and the "shroud terminals" like the T-ball. Ummm. Did the T-ball have a swag right on it, or inch back, or did original T-ball have wires somehow locked into it? It's hurricane season so I dont mind few months with mast down. Thank you. - D
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@Davenport
I believe your boat was commissioned by me due to seat attached to the rear fuel locker lid for a retired physician partially paralyzed. At that time there were three mast manufacturers to include US Spars, Dwyer Aluminum and Charleston Spars. If ordering from Mike Thomas, you will need to know which mast you have. I have known Mike Thomas for over 45 years.
If your roller furling is a gray plastic extrusion, you have a. CDI FF 2 system with the forestay having a T toggle at top and a threaded turnbuckle stud at the bottom of the forestay. Both ends are swaged onto the forestay. If the forestay has a broken wire or loose from either end, the forestay, it is time to replace it. The same advice is the same for your shrouds
I believe your boat was commissioned by me due to seat attached to the rear fuel locker lid for a retired physician partially paralyzed. At that time there were three mast manufacturers to include US Spars, Dwyer Aluminum and Charleston Spars. If ordering from Mike Thomas, you will need to know which mast you have. I have known Mike Thomas for over 45 years.
If your roller furling is a gray plastic extrusion, you have a. CDI FF 2 system with the forestay having a T toggle at top and a threaded turnbuckle stud at the bottom of the forestay. Both ends are swaged onto the forestay. If the forestay has a broken wire or loose from either end, the forestay, it is time to replace it. The same advice is the same for your shrouds
Thanks for all the information. About crimping wires into the T-ball shroud terminal thingee, is there a name and tool that Hunter used to have such crimps not have any indentations in the T-ball on h260? I can't even imagine how the factory did it. It must be crimped but no squeezing marks appear. - D
It is a roll swage. A rigger can make a new one. This is not a tool most people or yards have as it is rather specialized.
@Davenport
Hunter outsourced the rigging You will need to have it swaged as @dlochner stated. The owners manual gives the lengths of rigging but you will have to identify the mast. Mike Thomas can help you
@dlochner
Thaank you
Hunter outsourced the rigging You will need to have it swaged as @dlochner stated. The owners manual gives the lengths of rigging but you will have to identify the mast. Mike Thomas can help you
@dlochner
Thaank you
To answer my beginners question, when h260 wire is put into T-ball shroud terminal and squeezed via a machine without much marks, it's plain old "rotary swaging" or slightly different radial swaging, which is done via a suitcase sized $1000 machine with thick metal press wheels. Many sailboat repair pros have these. Soooooo, not a tool one can buy cheap and do yourself. T-ball connectors also vary, so buy same shape as broken part.
There are many rigging shops across the US but you will still know the information to do forestay unless you send in the old forestay. Enough said