Thanks to yet another "100 year flood" (our third in nine years) in the upper Mississippi watershed, my H26 trailer spent the last month under 6 feet of water. The placement of other boats on cradles prevented removal of the boat and trailer prior to flooding. The boat floated free, was captured, and is fine but I'm wondering about the trailer's brake system. Any suggestions re purging the hydraulic system? What happens to break shoes submerged so long--need replacement? Thanks DRH s/v Genesis
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I think that they use alcohol!
Daniel: I believe that they use alcohol to flush the break systems out. This will clean out the system and flush out the water with it. When you replace the break fluid it will push the alcohol out and it will evaporate quickly. Shoes and new wiring would also seem prudent! Call your insurance company too.
Daniel: I believe that they use alcohol to flush the break systems out. This will clean out the system and flush out the water with it. When you replace the break fluid it will push the alcohol out and it will evaporate quickly. Shoes and new wiring would also seem prudent! Call your insurance company too.
brakes ,
as a follow up on the brake issue, My trailer for h23, (kens) needs to have the rubber brake line replaced, in doing so the system will get air in it . when I used to do this in the past with cars, there was a method to bleed brakes, how is this done with surge brakes,????? thanks Mike B
as a follow up on the brake issue, My trailer for h23, (kens) needs to have the rubber brake line replaced, in doing so the system will get air in it . when I used to do this in the past with cars, there was a method to bleed brakes, how is this done with surge brakes,????? thanks Mike B
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Ray Bowles
Daniel, if you have no, or very little,
experence with brake systems you should seek professional help. I just spent 20 minutes writing a response to you and realized it was way too technical without knowing your skills. Yes, there could be some problems, but with enough mechnical skills they are a piece of cake to repair and fairly cheap. These procedures should be done as SOON AS POSIBLE because of the nature of the different metals involved in your system. I would be glad to help you with your questions. I'm listed in the Hunter Owners files. Ray
experence with brake systems you should seek professional help. I just spent 20 minutes writing a response to you and realized it was way too technical without knowing your skills. Yes, there could be some problems, but with enough mechnical skills they are a piece of cake to repair and fairly cheap. These procedures should be done as SOON AS POSIBLE because of the nature of the different metals involved in your system. I would be glad to help you with your questions. I'm listed in the Hunter Owners files. Ray
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Rick Webb
Bleeding Brakes
I use one of those vacuum pumps made for automotive use. It is not a terribly complicated deal and if you are at all familiar with car brakes it is essentially the same. If you are not a shade tree mechanic and you know someone who is and you could probably trade help on the trailer for a sail.
I use one of those vacuum pumps made for automotive use. It is not a terribly complicated deal and if you are at all familiar with car brakes it is essentially the same. If you are not a shade tree mechanic and you know someone who is and you could probably trade help on the trailer for a sail.
bleeding brakes
Back in the day when I worked on my cars, there was a process it required two people one to pump the brakes and one to open close bleed screw, u started at farthest point from master cylinder and went around the car, not familiar with the thing you mentioned, was wondering how u esentially do the brake pumping part, thanks again Mike B
Back in the day when I worked on my cars, there was a process it required two people one to pump the brakes and one to open close bleed screw, u started at farthest point from master cylinder and went around the car, not familiar with the thing you mentioned, was wondering how u esentially do the brake pumping part, thanks again Mike B
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Paul Westcott
Trailer 4 weeks underwater
You're lucky it was fresh water, that makes it easy. Odds are that very little water got into the system, the wheel cylinders and brake lines should be fine, there might be a little water in the master cylinder resevoir because it's vented. I'd disconnect the master and flush it out with new brake fluid then reattach the brake line and bleed, you can do this by pressing the surge brake piston in while cracking the brake line fitting to let out any air. When you get solid fluid coming out you're done. Check the brake fluid level and forget it. If you have any doubts bleed the wheel cylinders but it really isn't likely to be necessary. I used to launch my Pacific Seacraft 25 by letting the trailer out into water over 6' deep to float the boat off. Often put the boat and trailer out during low tide and pulled the trailer out with a chain after the time came in and floated the boat off. Never had any brake problems other than fighting corrosion from salt water.
You're lucky it was fresh water, that makes it easy. Odds are that very little water got into the system, the wheel cylinders and brake lines should be fine, there might be a little water in the master cylinder resevoir because it's vented. I'd disconnect the master and flush it out with new brake fluid then reattach the brake line and bleed, you can do this by pressing the surge brake piston in while cracking the brake line fitting to let out any air. When you get solid fluid coming out you're done. Check the brake fluid level and forget it. If you have any doubts bleed the wheel cylinders but it really isn't likely to be necessary. I used to launch my Pacific Seacraft 25 by letting the trailer out into water over 6' deep to float the boat off. Often put the boat and trailer out during low tide and pulled the trailer out with a chain after the time came in and floated the boat off. Never had any brake problems other than fighting corrosion from salt water.
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Michael Bell
Bleeding the brakes
I took the hitch head off the truck and put it on the trailer and used that as a lever to tilt (pump) the surge brake mechanism. Takes two people. One strong (heavy) one to push down on the hitch head to pump the brake (and keep the reservoir full); and another to bleed each wheel. Start with the furthest (longest distance) and work your way towards the closest. Also, use a short piece of tubing on the bleeder with the other end in a small container. Once the fluid comes out the bleeder and into the hose, it will keep the air from re-entering the wheel cylinder as the person pumping pulls back up on the hitch head. When you (think) your done, pushing down on the hitch head should be solid, not spongy. If it’s not solid, you have air in the line somewhere – so start over. And keep the reservoir full.
I took the hitch head off the truck and put it on the trailer and used that as a lever to tilt (pump) the surge brake mechanism. Takes two people. One strong (heavy) one to push down on the hitch head to pump the brake (and keep the reservoir full); and another to bleed each wheel. Start with the furthest (longest distance) and work your way towards the closest. Also, use a short piece of tubing on the bleeder with the other end in a small container. Once the fluid comes out the bleeder and into the hose, it will keep the air from re-entering the wheel cylinder as the person pumping pulls back up on the hitch head. When you (think) your done, pushing down on the hitch head should be solid, not spongy. If it’s not solid, you have air in the line somewhere – so start over. And keep the reservoir full.
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