h26 motor mod
- Thread starter dewhunter
- Start date
Fred;
I am not sure about the height but I use to use the stainless steel brackets that are on the 260 to get the motor out further for two reasons. One to get it away from hitting the transom if someone had the engine near it and under full power like a 9.9 could hit it. Second, it allowed more room to tilt the engine upward more so it would not interfere with the motor well housing. As for the height, I agree with you on that.
I am not sure about the height but I use to use the stainless steel brackets that are on the 260 to get the motor out further for two reasons. One to get it away from hitting the transom if someone had the engine near it and under full power like a 9.9 could hit it. Second, it allowed more room to tilt the engine upward more so it would not interfere with the motor well housing. As for the height, I agree with you on that.
H26 Motor Mount
My H26 seems to have SS brackets installed to move the motor mounting aft by a few inches. Perhaps other versions did not have these installed. I certainly have not noticed any possibility of the motor fouling the hull with this arrangement and the height doesn't seem to be a problem. Originally I questioned if the long shaft motor was necessary on this installation but it seems to be ok. The only concern I have is when trailering, I need to tilt the motor to feel comfortable that it will not touch the ground. I bought a drop down hitch receiver to level out the trailer a bit more, which should help the clearance issue and perhaps avoid the need to tilt the motor.
My H26 seems to have SS brackets installed to move the motor mounting aft by a few inches. Perhaps other versions did not have these installed. I certainly have not noticed any possibility of the motor fouling the hull with this arrangement and the height doesn't seem to be a problem. Originally I questioned if the long shaft motor was necessary on this installation but it seems to be ok. The only concern I have is when trailering, I need to tilt the motor to feel comfortable that it will not touch the ground. I bought a drop down hitch receiver to level out the trailer a bit more, which should help the clearance issue and perhaps avoid the need to tilt the motor.
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Re: H26 Motor Mount
The reason for the mount change are as follows: The fist motor (9.9) (97Lb) was wobbly, with the mount flexing the transom. This was from to much distance from the transom on the mount and light material. The second motor (15)(111Lb) the power head was very close to the water. On both motors the shaft hung 18" below the hull. The same issues exist with the third motor(15)(121Lb)(pro-kicker). With the mount moved up and closer to the transom the flex is gone and the power head is well clear of the water with no risk of swamping. the prop is 12"under the hull for good bite. The original mount was fastened with lag bolts into wood stiffeners in the fiberglass, now everything is though bolted with backing plates. End of problems and I can load onto the trailer without having to trim up (lift the motor).
The reason for the mount change are as follows: The fist motor (9.9) (97Lb) was wobbly, with the mount flexing the transom. This was from to much distance from the transom on the mount and light material. The second motor (15)(111Lb) the power head was very close to the water. On both motors the shaft hung 18" below the hull. The same issues exist with the third motor(15)(121Lb)(pro-kicker). With the mount moved up and closer to the transom the flex is gone and the power head is well clear of the water with no risk of swamping. the prop is 12"under the hull for good bite. The original mount was fastened with lag bolts into wood stiffeners in the fiberglass, now everything is though bolted with backing plates. End of problems and I can load onto the trailer without having to trim up (lift the motor).
Dewhunter
The original boats had a board bolted across and if those bolts became loose, wobbly motor. Otherwise, I never had an issue with the motors installed on the 26 as a former dealer. As for the motor head being swamped, even in the ocean, the waves would lift the backend of the boat up, thus no swamping unless in an extreme case but does not happen often. Although the motor hung far below, you actually got better performance which is why the standard or 20 inch shaft worked great for the lakes and rivers. In the ocean with rolling seas, the 25 inch shaft was better suited. There is a lot more to go but in the end what works well for you and by the way a good job well done is important.
Regardless of what folks say, I always suggested tying the motor handle off with a line or rope to something for example the base of the stern rail to keep that motor from bouncing up and down when trailering even on you modification as it can over time create issues which many think it will not happen but again I saw a lot due to my affiliation with the water ballast.
Again nice job and thank you for posting. feel free to contact me anytime.
The original boats had a board bolted across and if those bolts became loose, wobbly motor. Otherwise, I never had an issue with the motors installed on the 26 as a former dealer. As for the motor head being swamped, even in the ocean, the waves would lift the backend of the boat up, thus no swamping unless in an extreme case but does not happen often. Although the motor hung far below, you actually got better performance which is why the standard or 20 inch shaft worked great for the lakes and rivers. In the ocean with rolling seas, the 25 inch shaft was better suited. There is a lot more to go but in the end what works well for you and by the way a good job well done is important.
Regardless of what folks say, I always suggested tying the motor handle off with a line or rope to something for example the base of the stern rail to keep that motor from bouncing up and down when trailering even on you modification as it can over time create issues which many think it will not happen but again I saw a lot due to my affiliation with the water ballast.
Again nice job and thank you for posting. feel free to contact me anytime.
Dave; part of the looseness was from stripped threads in the transom, the rest was from flexing of the SS mount. I've had the long shaft (25") motor on the low mount lift out of the water as much as with the higher mount. In an extreme condition do you really want to risk a motor swamping? My life is worth a lot more. A bit more cavitation sometimes I can live with.
The big problem with the original mount was the wood bracket was bolted to the transom and I use to install the stainless steel mounting brackets seen on the 260 once that came out to offset the motor. Most used the standard shaft which was fine in most application and could raise the motor out of the water. Never an issue as to swamping.
In your case you have a lifting mount and thus your motor is straight up and down which most do not have. A big difference as you do not want the lower unit to remain in the water. In addition, some have 15 hp when the transom is only rated for a 10 hp max. However, you did take the time to reinforce the back of the transom when mounting when many did not.
As for any stripped bolts for the original mount, I use to go to the next size bolt and retap for that. what many fail to do is to insure those bolts remain tight as they can and sometimes come loose.
I could go on and on and we will disagree but if your setup fits the bill, that is what is most important. I only speak from working and sailing these boats over he years. Now I think we have said alot and there is much in the archives on these issues but in the end, it is up to the end user and what works for him, great.
In your case you have a lifting mount and thus your motor is straight up and down which most do not have. A big difference as you do not want the lower unit to remain in the water. In addition, some have 15 hp when the transom is only rated for a 10 hp max. However, you did take the time to reinforce the back of the transom when mounting when many did not.
As for any stripped bolts for the original mount, I use to go to the next size bolt and retap for that. what many fail to do is to insure those bolts remain tight as they can and sometimes come loose.
I could go on and on and we will disagree but if your setup fits the bill, that is what is most important. I only speak from working and sailing these boats over he years. Now I think we have said alot and there is much in the archives on these issues but in the end, it is up to the end user and what works for him, great.
motor mod
Moving on; As luck would have it I've been able to run 4 different motors on the boat with varied results. The 9.9 (8" 3blade,pitch unknown prop) gave a wide open throttle speed of 4.5 to 4.9kn Very noisy and at idle there was not enough thrust to move the boat. The charging output was 0nly5 amp @ 12.8volts. I have no fuel burn data as it didn't run long enough for accurate measure. When the breakdown occurred, I was 12 nm from the marina in calm seas. I used my 2.5hp dingy motor the get back, 3hours latter & 1.25L of fuel. With a new 15hp (8" 3blade pitch unknown & no options prop) the charging was 13 amp @13.5 volts, fuel burn was 3L per hour. W.o.t. was 6knots and at 80% throttle 5knots, noisy at w.o.t livable at 80%. Crooks needed the motor more than me so insurance bought me a new pro-kicker 15hp. (10" 4 blade 8" pitch with options prop). Charging output is 13amp @ 13.5 volts. W.o.t can't overcome hull speed and peeks at 6.5kn, 80% throttle is 6 knots 60% is 5knots. Very quite until above 80%. (noise with no go). The only drawback is in reverse, you need to shift to neutral after you get way on to steer. Thrust is such that it overrides the rudder, not a concern in forward at all. On a small lake or for 2-3 hour sails none of this really maters, but if you use your boat to explore remote coves and like to gunkhole the it does.
Moving on; As luck would have it I've been able to run 4 different motors on the boat with varied results. The 9.9 (8" 3blade,pitch unknown prop) gave a wide open throttle speed of 4.5 to 4.9kn Very noisy and at idle there was not enough thrust to move the boat. The charging output was 0nly5 amp @ 12.8volts. I have no fuel burn data as it didn't run long enough for accurate measure. When the breakdown occurred, I was 12 nm from the marina in calm seas. I used my 2.5hp dingy motor the get back, 3hours latter & 1.25L of fuel. With a new 15hp (8" 3blade pitch unknown & no options prop) the charging was 13 amp @13.5 volts, fuel burn was 3L per hour. W.o.t. was 6knots and at 80% throttle 5knots, noisy at w.o.t livable at 80%. Crooks needed the motor more than me so insurance bought me a new pro-kicker 15hp. (10" 4 blade 8" pitch with options prop). Charging output is 13amp @ 13.5 volts. W.o.t can't overcome hull speed and peeks at 6.5kn, 80% throttle is 6 knots 60% is 5knots. Very quite until above 80%. (noise with no go). The only drawback is in reverse, you need to shift to neutral after you get way on to steer. Thrust is such that it overrides the rudder, not a concern in forward at all. On a small lake or for 2-3 hour sails none of this really maters, but if you use your boat to explore remote coves and like to gunkhole the it does.
Dewhunter,
a lot of my knowledge and experience came not only from lake sailing but testing different sizes of motors on the 26 in the Chesapeake Bay.
a lot of my knowledge and experience came not only from lake sailing but testing different sizes of motors on the 26 in the Chesapeake Bay.