I'll be hauling out my 95 H26 for bottom paint soon and want to take the opportunity to replace the keel uphaul. Is there anything published to show me how to do it? Tom/DFW
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Jeff Peltier
Process
You have to drop the whole assembly out. This requires enough clearence to drop the board in the horizontile position plus 2" or 3" for the pivot bracket. This is held in place by one 3/4" bolt located just behind the mast strut (smeared with 5200 to seal against leaks). Supporting the board about midway while you are doing this makes it much easier by allowing the person to minimize the amount of weight supported while lining up the bracket. Jeff Peltier
You have to drop the whole assembly out. This requires enough clearence to drop the board in the horizontile position plus 2" or 3" for the pivot bracket. This is held in place by one 3/4" bolt located just behind the mast strut (smeared with 5200 to seal against leaks). Supporting the board about midway while you are doing this makes it much easier by allowing the person to minimize the amount of weight supported while lining up the bracket. Jeff Peltier
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Dave Royce
Same as the 23.5
I have my 1994 23.5 out of the water right now for bottom paint. During the sanding process I discovered some cracks coming out of the keel well. The local repair shop look at them and a repair was begun. I work with the repair shop owner and discovered that the lateral swing of the keel was most likely causing the stress. So we removed the keel. Real easy process. Removed the 3/4" bolt and the keel just fell into my arms. I am also changing the keel pin and sleeve since they have so much play. I am also changing the up haul line. Additionally, I am adding shim material to keel bracket where the upper part of the keel resides to prevent lateral movement. Hunter only shimmed the very bottom of the bracket. Once you remove the bolt and drop the keel it other work is simple and easy to see. Not much need for a manual. You may to check your pin and sleeve. I had a local machine shop make the shim and pin for $50.00
I have my 1994 23.5 out of the water right now for bottom paint. During the sanding process I discovered some cracks coming out of the keel well. The local repair shop look at them and a repair was begun. I work with the repair shop owner and discovered that the lateral swing of the keel was most likely causing the stress. So we removed the keel. Real easy process. Removed the 3/4" bolt and the keel just fell into my arms. I am also changing the keel pin and sleeve since they have so much play. I am also changing the up haul line. Additionally, I am adding shim material to keel bracket where the upper part of the keel resides to prevent lateral movement. Hunter only shimmed the very bottom of the bracket. Once you remove the bolt and drop the keel it other work is simple and easy to see. Not much need for a manual. You may to check your pin and sleeve. I had a local machine shop make the shim and pin for $50.00
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Bill
How to do yourself
Sure the keel part is easy, now for getting the boat in a position that works when you don't live near a marine lift? That is the trick.. any thoughts
Sure the keel part is easy, now for getting the boat in a position that works when you don't live near a marine lift? That is the trick.. any thoughts
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Jeff Peltier
options
A boat lift is an easy one. Unfortunately the trailer has too many cross braces in the way to work. Some auto/truck repair shops might have an overhead lifts (Most pickups weigh over 5000#) strong enough to lift the boat using nylon slings. In this case, I would use safety blocks as you have to work under the boat. Jeff Peltier
A boat lift is an easy one. Unfortunately the trailer has too many cross braces in the way to work. Some auto/truck repair shops might have an overhead lifts (Most pickups weigh over 5000#) strong enough to lift the boat using nylon slings. In this case, I would use safety blocks as you have to work under the boat. Jeff Peltier
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Marcel Ralbovsky
Remove centerboard on trailer
I changed my centerboard uphaul to a low stretch Spectra line on my '94 H-26 last year. I put a 4x8x12' piece of lumber under the boat just forward of the centerboard, and just past the trailer end where the hull is still flat. I cushioned the contact points with old carpet and made a V-cradle from lumber scraps. Then, using two hydraulic jacks, I slowly raised the front and the back, keeping the boat level. When moving the jacks I replaced them with cement blocks. You only have to lift the boat about a foot. However you lift the boat, hook a light line to the uphaul line so that you can pull the line back up later. It makes installation easier. The rest is as others posted, remove the bolt under the table and the whole assy. drops out. Make sure something or someone is there to catch it. We have done this with 2 boats now, just remember to put blocking in the middle of the beams before you crawl under the boat, and if you expect winds, some 2x4 side supports might be in order to stabilize the hull. Other than the expense of the wood this is not an expensive project. On the second boat, which is slipped, we did the bottom paint also, and it is not possible to do the trunk area without removing the centerboard.
I changed my centerboard uphaul to a low stretch Spectra line on my '94 H-26 last year. I put a 4x8x12' piece of lumber under the boat just forward of the centerboard, and just past the trailer end where the hull is still flat. I cushioned the contact points with old carpet and made a V-cradle from lumber scraps. Then, using two hydraulic jacks, I slowly raised the front and the back, keeping the boat level. When moving the jacks I replaced them with cement blocks. You only have to lift the boat about a foot. However you lift the boat, hook a light line to the uphaul line so that you can pull the line back up later. It makes installation easier. The rest is as others posted, remove the bolt under the table and the whole assy. drops out. Make sure something or someone is there to catch it. We have done this with 2 boats now, just remember to put blocking in the middle of the beams before you crawl under the boat, and if you expect winds, some 2x4 side supports might be in order to stabilize the hull. Other than the expense of the wood this is not an expensive project. On the second boat, which is slipped, we did the bottom paint also, and it is not possible to do the trunk area without removing the centerboard.
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Bill
THANK YOU
Wow not a bad idea, so simple. So I take it the bracket is less then a foot, thus a one foot lift is enough? I always thought about doing this in the water, scuba tanks, and lines suspending the keel as it dropped, but why not take advantage of the painting ... on the dry.. So thank you,advice well taken
Wow not a bad idea, so simple. So I take it the bracket is less then a foot, thus a one foot lift is enough? I always thought about doing this in the water, scuba tanks, and lines suspending the keel as it dropped, but why not take advantage of the painting ... on the dry.. So thank you,advice well taken
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