Question for folks who have sailed their H26/260s a lot; How far do you let the boom out? It seems like an awful lot of sail is up against the shrouds and spreeaders when I go downwind. Also, we are headed off for a couple of weeks near the North end of Vancouver Island, and I don't have a Loos Gauge. Can those of you with loos gauges give me some general guidance? I have rigged lots of boats by eye, and they worked fine, but several folks have mentioned a big difference when you get it right. Can I get a Loos Gauge at WM? Are the specs for tightness in the H26 manual? Third, when you mount a bow roller, do you move the bow cleat? If yes, where to? Thanks. This list/community is a great resource.
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Hey Fred
On the stock H260 sail there is a reinforced patch that just so luckily happens to line up with the spreaders to prevent chafing. The bad part of a B&R rig is the fact the spreaders do angle back pretty far. Going downwind it is very easy to let the sail touch the spreaders. If you have the rub patches on your sails I wouldn't worry about it. If you don't have them I'd get some added. It's either that or lose a lot of downwind performance. A loos gauge does work wonders. The settings are not in the Hunter manual but rather based on the diameter of wire used. The directions should come with the gauge and yes they can be bought at WM. Go online and look them up. You may be able to find one cheaper than from WM is you search.
On the stock H260 sail there is a reinforced patch that just so luckily happens to line up with the spreaders to prevent chafing. The bad part of a B&R rig is the fact the spreaders do angle back pretty far. Going downwind it is very easy to let the sail touch the spreaders. If you have the rub patches on your sails I wouldn't worry about it. If you don't have them I'd get some added. It's either that or lose a lot of downwind performance. A loos gauge does work wonders. The settings are not in the Hunter manual but rather based on the diameter of wire used. The directions should come with the gauge and yes they can be bought at WM. Go online and look them up. You may be able to find one cheaper than from WM is you search.
Questions?
Answers, 1) Yes WM sells them, they come in two sizes. 2) Specs, follow the instructions from the loos gauge. A wire size measuring tool is included. It is a percentage of the breaking strength of the wire. Down load rigging procedures as far as centering mast, mast rake, inner and outer shrouds, etc. 3)Yes, you have to remove the bow cleat. I replaced the one centered bow cleat with two smaller ones one to port the other to starboard. WM carries different sizes. Used large washers as backing plates. Fill in the holes of where the old cleat was. You'll love that improvement.
Answers, 1) Yes WM sells them, they come in two sizes. 2) Specs, follow the instructions from the loos gauge. A wire size measuring tool is included. It is a percentage of the breaking strength of the wire. Down load rigging procedures as far as centering mast, mast rake, inner and outer shrouds, etc. 3)Yes, you have to remove the bow cleat. I replaced the one centered bow cleat with two smaller ones one to port the other to starboard. WM carries different sizes. Used large washers as backing plates. Fill in the holes of where the old cleat was. You'll love that improvement.
Downwind Sailing
With the B & R Rig sailing downwind is a little different. That's why I seldoom sail directly down wind; it's easier, safer and faster to just sail off the quarter. If you have never riggged a preventer on your boat you should consider it. Here's a couple of links that should help sort all this out: Rigging the H26/260: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html Preventer setup: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/preventer/preventer.html
With the B & R Rig sailing downwind is a little different. That's why I seldoom sail directly down wind; it's easier, safer and faster to just sail off the quarter. If you have never riggged a preventer on your boat you should consider it. Here's a couple of links that should help sort all this out: Rigging the H26/260: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html Preventer setup: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/preventer/preventer.html
Fred, I have a 280 that is rigged very similar to
the 260. My mainsail has a spreader patch to protect it from chaffe. These boat do not do well dead down wind and general guidance is to keep the apparent wind somewhere around 135-145*. This will keep the jib somewhat full, you'll go faster and the mainsail won't get into the rigging quite so much. Also, the chance of a bad gybe is reduced. As far as tension, the others are dead on. The rigging is supposed to be set to a percent of breaking strength and that is determined by wire type and size.
the 260. My mainsail has a spreader patch to protect it from chaffe. These boat do not do well dead down wind and general guidance is to keep the apparent wind somewhere around 135-145*. This will keep the jib somewhat full, you'll go faster and the mainsail won't get into the rigging quite so much. Also, the chance of a bad gybe is reduced. As far as tension, the others are dead on. The rigging is supposed to be set to a percent of breaking strength and that is determined by wire type and size.
Is the smaller guage at WM the right one
for my H26? I'll shop around, but I need it soon and they have it in stock.. for $93 Can. I have been broad reaching downwind rather than sailing dead downwind for the reasons others give. It's nice to know that's the consensus. Makes the autohelm happier, too.
for my H26? I'll shop around, but I need it soon and they have it in stock.. for $93 Can. I have been broad reaching downwind rather than sailing dead downwind for the reasons others give. It's nice to know that's the consensus. Makes the autohelm happier, too.
H26 Rig Tension
Fred, As someone else mentioned, there are several size loos gauges. For my H26, I needed the model that works with a 3/16 inch cable. When I contacted Hunter when rigging my 1995 H26, they indicated the breaking strength was 4,000 lbs. I also used the 20% breaking strength and am currently satisfied. It seems a lot tighter than I use to have on my Catalina 25 but I suspect that is because of the B&R rig. Once you get your rig set, use white-out or permanent pen to mark your spots for the turnbuckle adjustments, if you haven't done so already. It will save you a bunch of time when rigging. As for sailing downwind ... we do a bit of casual racing and I'm still experimenting with my H26. Thus far, the greatest advantage I've experienced is when I've raised the centerboard when sailing downwind. I may opt to sail the shortest route, main trimmed out at or near the spreader, and not worry about the headsail. Others have said raising the centerboard gives you about 1 km more speed, and I would believe it but haven't yet measured it. I only raise the centerboard in light winds and with crew as I don't want to forget to lower it when heading back up wind. If I sail on a broad reach with the centerboard down, I can almost keep up with my friend's Catalina 25 fixed keel tall mast. Mark
Fred, As someone else mentioned, there are several size loos gauges. For my H26, I needed the model that works with a 3/16 inch cable. When I contacted Hunter when rigging my 1995 H26, they indicated the breaking strength was 4,000 lbs. I also used the 20% breaking strength and am currently satisfied. It seems a lot tighter than I use to have on my Catalina 25 but I suspect that is because of the B&R rig. Once you get your rig set, use white-out or permanent pen to mark your spots for the turnbuckle adjustments, if you haven't done so already. It will save you a bunch of time when rigging. As for sailing downwind ... we do a bit of casual racing and I'm still experimenting with my H26. Thus far, the greatest advantage I've experienced is when I've raised the centerboard when sailing downwind. I may opt to sail the shortest route, main trimmed out at or near the spreader, and not worry about the headsail. Others have said raising the centerboard gives you about 1 km more speed, and I would believe it but haven't yet measured it. I only raise the centerboard in light winds and with crew as I don't want to forget to lower it when heading back up wind. If I sail on a broad reach with the centerboard down, I can almost keep up with my friend's Catalina 25 fixed keel tall mast. Mark
Loose Gage
See this link below for more on the loose Gage: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html Hunter recommends 20 percent of breaking strength but I am a little shy of that. Watch for slack leeward shrouds. More on this at the above link. Hunter uses Hackensack 316 Stainless Steel 1/8" (3.2mm) 1X19 cable and 5/32" (4mm) 1X19 cable for the H260. The Hackensack 1 x 19 Strand cable is strong, with less stretch but is also less flexible than many types of cable and does not allow for kinks or bends. If your cable has been damaged in this way, replace it. Other manufacturers of cable might give different nominal values for similar size cable, but the Hackensack 316 data is what I got from Hunter for the H260 rigging. With all of the cables tensioned so that none are slack, set up RD1 (1/8" / 3.2mm cable) to no more than 356 lbs or 20% of it's nominal breaking strength of 1780 pounds. This should be about 26 on the PT-1 professional Loos Gage. Set D1, D2, and V1 (5/32 / 4mm cable) to no more than 560 lbs or 20% of nominal breaking strength of 2800 pounds. This will be about 37 on the Loos Gage. Note: These are maximum values. The objective is to ensure there are no slack leeward shrouds or shifting of the spar. Use common sense here. If your rigging appears to perform well with lesser values go with the lower number until you are convinced higher tension is needed.
See this link below for more on the loose Gage: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rigging/rigging.html Hunter recommends 20 percent of breaking strength but I am a little shy of that. Watch for slack leeward shrouds. More on this at the above link. Hunter uses Hackensack 316 Stainless Steel 1/8" (3.2mm) 1X19 cable and 5/32" (4mm) 1X19 cable for the H260. The Hackensack 1 x 19 Strand cable is strong, with less stretch but is also less flexible than many types of cable and does not allow for kinks or bends. If your cable has been damaged in this way, replace it. Other manufacturers of cable might give different nominal values for similar size cable, but the Hackensack 316 data is what I got from Hunter for the H260 rigging. With all of the cables tensioned so that none are slack, set up RD1 (1/8" / 3.2mm cable) to no more than 356 lbs or 20% of it's nominal breaking strength of 1780 pounds. This should be about 26 on the PT-1 professional Loos Gage. Set D1, D2, and V1 (5/32 / 4mm cable) to no more than 560 lbs or 20% of nominal breaking strength of 2800 pounds. This will be about 37 on the Loos Gage. Note: These are maximum values. The objective is to ensure there are no slack leeward shrouds or shifting of the spar. Use common sense here. If your rigging appears to perform well with lesser values go with the lower number until you are convinced higher tension is needed.
Thanks guys
George, I printed the info from your link. Thanks. I may just wing it. The way I've tuned rigs before is to take up on the shrouds a bit at a time until they are just a tiny bit slack on leeward side when the rig is fully loaded. I can go just beyond that and take out the slack but not lift the rail. The advantage of the gauge would be to do it once, at the dock, and be finished with it. Centre the mast first, of course. Any advice on my sinking rudder? It's pretty heavy to lift, even in the water, and it doesn't drip when I take it home on the trailer. Maybe I'll lower it and see if water runs out.
George, I printed the info from your link. Thanks. I may just wing it. The way I've tuned rigs before is to take up on the shrouds a bit at a time until they are just a tiny bit slack on leeward side when the rig is fully loaded. I can go just beyond that and take out the slack but not lift the rail. The advantage of the gauge would be to do it once, at the dock, and be finished with it. Centre the mast first, of course. Any advice on my sinking rudder? It's pretty heavy to lift, even in the water, and it doesn't drip when I take it home on the trailer. Maybe I'll lower it and see if water runs out.
Contact Information
Fred, In a question I had about trailering you indicated that you would be in the Port MacNeil area in August. I said that I would send you my contact information; I am in Port Alice. With the push to get here, I forgot to contact you. My email is: pmeyers@cerrocoso.edu Send me an email if you would like to connect. I hope the weather improves!
Fred, In a question I had about trailering you indicated that you would be in the Port MacNeil area in August. I said that I would send you my contact information; I am in Port Alice. With the push to get here, I forgot to contact you. My email is: pmeyers@cerrocoso.edu Send me an email if you would like to connect. I hope the weather improves!
Sinking Rudder
Maybe complaints about the H26 heavy rudder is one of the reasons Hunter redesigned the rudder for the H260. Using a tip on this forum I eliminated any problems with getting the rudder up and down by using a couple of mini-blocks. Your rudder is different but maybe the same idea will work on your boat. More on this at this link: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rudder/rudder.html Next time you pull the boat, I'd give it a chance to dry out. A couple of holes in the bottom to see if any water drains out can't hurt.
Maybe complaints about the H26 heavy rudder is one of the reasons Hunter redesigned the rudder for the H260. Using a tip on this forum I eliminated any problems with getting the rudder up and down by using a couple of mini-blocks. Your rudder is different but maybe the same idea will work on your boat. More on this at this link: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rudder/rudder.html Next time you pull the boat, I'd give it a chance to dry out. A couple of holes in the bottom to see if any water drains out can't hurt.
Downwind
I've had the best luck racing downwind on a deep broad reach with the sail just on the spreaders. As I recall H260 guru "Crazy Dave" advocated this too. Board up helps a little also. This allows us to keep up with the large headsail boats in a mixed fleet that are sailing wing/wing. If the winds are light, a whisker pole on the jib supported by a jib halyard topping lift helps keep the jib from collapsing. Be careful when the main is reefed going downwind. The reinforcing patches on the sail will be below the spreaders no longer protecting the sail from chafe.
I've had the best luck racing downwind on a deep broad reach with the sail just on the spreaders. As I recall H260 guru "Crazy Dave" advocated this too. Board up helps a little also. This allows us to keep up with the large headsail boats in a mixed fleet that are sailing wing/wing. If the winds are light, a whisker pole on the jib supported by a jib halyard topping lift helps keep the jib from collapsing. Be careful when the main is reefed going downwind. The reinforcing patches on the sail will be below the spreaders no longer protecting the sail from chafe.
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