H26 Compression post problem

[Derf123]

H26 Compression post problem - help please

Well, I figured it would be an easy job of sealing the compression post as was done by Pat Adams in his article. Wrong... The boat is sitting on the trailer. I removed the four #3 phillips head machine screws holding the top of the compression post to the deck, and "POP", the deck under the mast step plate dropped about 3/16 of an inch. There appears to be little or no sealant under the plate (no wonder it leaked). I was hoping to just fill the cavity around the post and under the plate with sealant and put it back together, but now with this space between the two, what can be done? I checked the compression post where it fits into it's base on top of the keel, and it is seating all the way, so that is not raising the post. I have not yet removed the post and inspected the core under the mast plate. Could sitting on the trailer flex the hull enough to cause this gap, or am I dealing with some major problem? Has anyone seen this before?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

take a photo and post it so we can see more clearly what you are talking about.

 

[Derf123]

Here are two pictures. It appears to have about a 5/16" gap and it is pretty constant all the way around. The deck does not seem to flex when walked upon and seems solid. When I stand on the deck step part, the distance between the deck and bottom of the compression post plate does not change.

 

[kloudie1]

Yup.. keel supporting the boat.. deck probably did not sink, the mast base probably popped up. You can take a jack and some boards to spread the load and jack the deck up from underneath while still on the trailer or clean the gap and put sealant in just before launching .. bring the jack just in case.. then put the screws in and launch .. clean up the gook that comes out of the gap, tighten everything up, and you are good to go.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I hope I understand the situation now. The compression post is too long and when the screws were removed, the deck settled back down. Correct?

If that is the case, here is what I would do. First, I would take the exact measurement from the deck up to the underside of the compression post top plate or the pipe welded to the mast plate. This would be considered excess for which the compression post would be shortened. In other words if the gap is 5/16", then I would cut off 5/16 off the bottom of the compression post which would have to be removed. When doing that, there are two things to consider since you have come this far.

First, look at the bottom of the compression post inside and you will see a hole possibly with a screw which is a #10. If only a hole, no problem. However, there is another screw hole in front and you will have to make sure if there is a screw to remove it as well.

Secondly, run a tracer line thru the compression post before you remove it so to help you reinstall the centerboard line when reinstalling the compression post.

Now for the two screw holes that would be out of alignment. I had told Hunter those two screws or bolts were not necessary and they did not put the screws in after that although the holes were there. I advised in earlier posts to reinstall #10 screws with a little caulk and I used 5200 screwing them in so the holes would not leak but not against the other post as they were not necessary. So if you have two screws simply reinstall but not all the way with of course caulk so they will not leak.

As for cutting the compression post, it needs to be cut straight and flush and if you feel that you need to have this done at a machine shop, better to err on safety and workmanship is my motto.

I hope this helps you.

crazy dave condon

 

[Derf123]

Thanks Dave, seems simple enough and I have a metal cutting band saw so cutting the post should be no problem. But,,,,, I'm the kind of guy who also wants to understand the "why" of things and how they work. So, why or how could this have happened? Could it come from Hunter this way or has something else happened?

 

[kloudie1]

'll betcha a beer that if you carefully jack the trailer bunks about 3/4" higher, you'll see the gap decrease a lot.. I think the hull is flexing a little and the keel is pushing that post up while on the trailer.

 

[Derf123]

Well, I'll take the beer anytime.... I lifted the front of the boat 5" to relieve pressure on the front of the bunks, and it made no difference in the gap. Still wish I knew what caused it. Maybe I'll do what Dave said and cut the post and chalk it up as a mystery.

 

[kloudie1]

I guess I owe ya one!.. I envision the shell as an oval.. If ya hold the oval by the outer wide edges and push up with thumbs on the bottom middle, as the keel would do on the trailer, anything like a mast post would want to push through the top of the oval..
I learned to sail on Oktibbeha County Lake back about a thousand years ago while going to college at State.. Many nice lakes to sail and kayak in the north part of the state.

 

[Derf123]

Claude, I understand the method to your madness. I was thinking along the same lines. This may force me to raise the whole boat off the trailer and see what happens. Oh well, I need to replace the bunk boards anyway... Hopefully, I can report back next week on the results.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Derf 123;

Is there any way to put the boat in the water momentarily to see if the compression post settles down. IF it does, then you have an issue with the trailer. Sorry, I forgot to mention that about the trailer and thank you Kloudie 1 for reminding us of that.

crazy dave condon

 

[Derf123]

OK, with the boat off the trailer (jacked up the boat and lowered the trailer), the space between the bottom of the compression post mast plate and the deck is the same as it was before. Guess I will cut the bottom of the post off some per Dave's suggestion.
thanks for all your help guys..

derf

 

[Derf123]

Trailer bunk problem

I took the dimensions of my trailer before I replaced the bunks (see attached). The heights seem to match from side to side, but the angles sure don't. This is a Hunter trailer made for the H26. Does anyone have the stanchion heights and angles of your trailer, or could possibly do a little measuring. Wish there were a diagram like there is for the H260. I am thinking that the bunks should be as far away from the keel as practical and hold the boat somewhat on the sides of the hull. Can anyone offer some help?

Thanks,
derf

 

[twalker H260]

Re: Trailer bunk problem

Derf I think you will find most of what your looking for here:

http://kobernus.com/hunter260/trailer/trailer1/trailer1.html

The second page has a schematic with the riser locations and spaces.

 

[Derf123]

Yeah, I saw that for the 260, but the H26 only has 3 risers, and are spaced differently Stbd to Port. Actually, looking at the diagram from the 260, he has reversed everything in the Side Bunk View except for the word "Forward" and the line for the bunk. Yeah, I get anal sometimes. The H260 trailer is different from the H26. I could really use some measurements/angles from someone with a Hunter H26 trailer.

Thanks for your input though,