We recently purchased our '86 H23 - would love to hear of some sailing impressions - the hull looks fast - we purchased the fixed wing keel model. Also, have read some complaints of how difficult it is to raise the mast. Haven't tried it yet, but using the winch and following the instructions in the manual seems to be reasonable... Any suggestions?
- Status
First year's impression
I have had an 87 H23 for three years now but this was the first year I actually had her in the water. I sailed her alot this summer but still have much to learn. My boat has the original "factory-supplied" configuration as far as sails, controls, etc. are concerned. Peruse the archives on this site and you will find a wealth of knowledge along with plenty of other owners who will share their experiences with this boat. Things that I found this summer include the following: * The original sail plan (main and small jib (100?)) works very well but always left me wanting just a little bit more of a jib. To go to a larger jib will require installing a genoa track which with the two sails (the 100 and perhaps a 135) will give you much greater flexibility. * Reefing the main can be done but requires planning ahead since to do it right, the sail luff stop has to be removed. Someone suggested tieing a small line to the reef cringle on the luff so that the stop did not have to be removed. * The H23 (with the wing keel) is very stable in most waters that I sailed in except when a wave catches you on the port or starboard rear quarter. I found that that was the only time that I felt the boat rock uncontrollably. On the stern or anywhere else from the bow to about 1/4 the way from the stern is okay. It just seemed to be if I caught a wake on that final 1/4 toward sthe stern, the H23 would take much longer to stabilize the rocking. * The H23 leans to port if you have the "factory setup" with the outboard, battery, water, etc. all on that side. Next year I will play with trying to even things out a little more. The boat will sail slightly differently when on port vs starboard tack because of this small list. * With practice, the H23 can beat other similar size boats as long as you sail it as an H23 and not as a J or other. You have to try to stay flat from what I've read from others. (I'm still learning so I'm not fast yet). * With a few modifications, the H23 can be sailed alone very easily. * It's definately a fun boat to sail. I crew for a couple of friends who race larger boats (Norlin 34
I have had an 87 H23 for three years now but this was the first year I actually had her in the water. I sailed her alot this summer but still have much to learn. My boat has the original "factory-supplied" configuration as far as sails, controls, etc. are concerned. Peruse the archives on this site and you will find a wealth of knowledge along with plenty of other owners who will share their experiences with this boat. Things that I found this summer include the following: * The original sail plan (main and small jib (100?)) works very well but always left me wanting just a little bit more of a jib. To go to a larger jib will require installing a genoa track which with the two sails (the 100 and perhaps a 135) will give you much greater flexibility. * Reefing the main can be done but requires planning ahead since to do it right, the sail luff stop has to be removed. Someone suggested tieing a small line to the reef cringle on the luff so that the stop did not have to be removed. * The H23 (with the wing keel) is very stable in most waters that I sailed in except when a wave catches you on the port or starboard rear quarter. I found that that was the only time that I felt the boat rock uncontrollably. On the stern or anywhere else from the bow to about 1/4 the way from the stern is okay. It just seemed to be if I caught a wake on that final 1/4 toward sthe stern, the H23 would take much longer to stabilize the rocking. * The H23 leans to port if you have the "factory setup" with the outboard, battery, water, etc. all on that side. Next year I will play with trying to even things out a little more. The boat will sail slightly differently when on port vs starboard tack because of this small list. * With practice, the H23 can beat other similar size boats as long as you sail it as an H23 and not as a J or other. You have to try to stay flat from what I've read from others. (I'm still learning so I'm not fast yet). * With a few modifications, the H23 can be sailed alone very easily. * It's definately a fun boat to sail. I crew for a couple of friends who race larger boats (Norlin 34
Jack, We have a 95 H26 and raising the mast
is a very straight forward process. One person can do it but having two is easier. To take our boat from the trailer to the pond requires about an hour. That includes all the rigging, the sails, coolers and gear. I hope enjoy your boat as much as we do ours. Hunters are very quick, point well and love races. Ray S/V Speedy
is a very straight forward process. One person can do it but having two is easier. To take our boat from the trailer to the pond requires about an hour. That includes all the rigging, the sails, coolers and gear. I hope enjoy your boat as much as we do ours. Hunters are very quick, point well and love races. Ray S/V Speedy
Funny you should ask
Just last week I responded to a similar question, but it's already rolled off this page because of so much traffic. Go under the Archives bar in the HOW site and check the first two boxes for current and 2001 postings. Type in "Lowering the mast" and then look up my checklist under "Yes we have no video." Whatever you do, snag a guy to help you at the critical moment of raising the mast.
Just last week I responded to a similar question, but it's already rolled off this page because of so much traffic. Go under the Archives bar in the HOW site and check the first two boxes for current and 2001 postings. Type in "Lowering the mast" and then look up my checklist under "Yes we have no video." Whatever you do, snag a guy to help you at the critical moment of raising the mast.
Love my 1988 h23
I purchased mine in April and have enjoyed it. I feel that it is fast, well built and the winged keel is a good compromise. Stepping the mast isn't so difficult because of the effort involved in lifting. The difficulty is in steadying it side-to-side as it is being raised (or lowered), especially if you have the Z Spar mast with the sheeved mast foot and hinged deck plate. This CANNOT be done by one person. I've discovered two good solutions on HOW. One involves building a "stepping plank" out of lumber that spans the cockpit from stern to cabin roof. This gives the person pushing a continuous platform on which to stand and steady the spar. The second solution is a temporary tripod (bipod) built from electrical conduit. (Pictures and instructions are in the HOW photo forum.) This seems particulary attractive because it would allow short handed stepping. Good luck.
I purchased mine in April and have enjoyed it. I feel that it is fast, well built and the winged keel is a good compromise. Stepping the mast isn't so difficult because of the effort involved in lifting. The difficulty is in steadying it side-to-side as it is being raised (or lowered), especially if you have the Z Spar mast with the sheeved mast foot and hinged deck plate. This CANNOT be done by one person. I've discovered two good solutions on HOW. One involves building a "stepping plank" out of lumber that spans the cockpit from stern to cabin roof. This gives the person pushing a continuous platform on which to stand and steady the spar. The second solution is a temporary tripod (bipod) built from electrical conduit. (Pictures and instructions are in the HOW photo forum.) This seems particulary attractive because it would allow short handed stepping. Good luck.
Gin Pole Setup for Mast Raising
A tall mast really helps in light air because more square feet of mainsail can be set to the wind. With regard to raising the mast, in the November issue of "Sail", page 12, is a diagram of a gin pole setup for raising the mast. If the stays are aft of the mast because of the swept-back spreaders then some adjustments in the gin-pole rigging might be needed but the basic setup looks like a good idea.
A tall mast really helps in light air because more square feet of mainsail can be set to the wind. With regard to raising the mast, in the November issue of "Sail", page 12, is a diagram of a gin pole setup for raising the mast. If the stays are aft of the mast because of the swept-back spreaders then some adjustments in the gin-pole rigging might be needed but the basic setup looks like a good idea.
Mast Raising on Hunter water ballast boats.
If you look at the bottom front of your mast there is a 1 1/8" hole about 6" up. Now look at your cabin front lifeline stantions, there is a small welded loop on the inside about 6 inches up from the cabin top. Hunter has a gin pole that goes into the mast hole. This pole is about 8 feet long on a H26 and has a wire thru the top end with a loop on each end. The jib halyard is hooked to the loop on the top end of the gin pole. The main sheet block assembly is hooked to the eye bolt in the anchor locker and attached to the loop on the bottom side of the gin pole. The jib halyard is now tightened up until the gin pole is about 10 to 15 degrees above horonizal for the operation. Now for those silly loops on the lifeline stanchions. There are two short temporary shrouds that hook into the stanchion loops and attach to the two holes about 6 feet up the mast on each side in the back. These lines keep the mast straight while raising or lowering until the long shroud lines get tight. With the gin pole and those two short shrouds one person can raise or lower the mast in less than 20 minutes, no sweat! It is all done with the main sheet block and tackle. You can use the winch if you need but I find I don't need it and I'm pretty worn out body wise. It you don't have these 3 parts I'll give the sizes for the H26. The parts are probably less that $30 if you have them made. Now you won't need the whole gang and the beer budget will greatly shrink. Ray S/V Speedy
If you look at the bottom front of your mast there is a 1 1/8" hole about 6" up. Now look at your cabin front lifeline stantions, there is a small welded loop on the inside about 6 inches up from the cabin top. Hunter has a gin pole that goes into the mast hole. This pole is about 8 feet long on a H26 and has a wire thru the top end with a loop on each end. The jib halyard is hooked to the loop on the top end of the gin pole. The main sheet block assembly is hooked to the eye bolt in the anchor locker and attached to the loop on the bottom side of the gin pole. The jib halyard is now tightened up until the gin pole is about 10 to 15 degrees above horonizal for the operation. Now for those silly loops on the lifeline stanchions. There are two short temporary shrouds that hook into the stanchion loops and attach to the two holes about 6 feet up the mast on each side in the back. These lines keep the mast straight while raising or lowering until the long shroud lines get tight. With the gin pole and those two short shrouds one person can raise or lower the mast in less than 20 minutes, no sweat! It is all done with the main sheet block and tackle. You can use the winch if you need but I find I don't need it and I'm pretty worn out body wise. It you don't have these 3 parts I'll give the sizes for the H26. The parts are probably less that $30 if you have them made. Now you won't need the whole gang and the beer budget will greatly shrink. Ray S/V Speedy
Great boat
The H23 is a great little boat. It looks good, it's fast and stable but it does have its flaws, of which mast-raising is probably the biggest. Fortunately for us, that problem was beaten to death by some of the sharper minds here in the forum, like Ward N. The mast-raising problem was solved by using a new mast base casting and mounting plate for the water-ballasted Hunters. These will fit the WK H23 mast, but the assembly is 2 inches shorter than the original setup, so you either have to fit a spacer under the mounting plate or shorten your standing rigging. The turnbuckles won't take up all the extra slack. Peter H23 "Raven"
The H23 is a great little boat. It looks good, it's fast and stable but it does have its flaws, of which mast-raising is probably the biggest. Fortunately for us, that problem was beaten to death by some of the sharper minds here in the forum, like Ward N. The mast-raising problem was solved by using a new mast base casting and mounting plate for the water-ballasted Hunters. These will fit the WK H23 mast, but the assembly is 2 inches shorter than the original setup, so you either have to fit a spacer under the mounting plate or shorten your standing rigging. The turnbuckles won't take up all the extra slack. Peter H23 "Raven"
More on the hunter 23
The hunter 23 is a great sailing boat. It points well and blows away all the comparable sized boats on the lake. Makes me look like a better sailer than I am! Raising the mast is not as hard as people make it out to be. I made a gin pole with a 2x4 and use the main sheet to haul up mast. It's crude but works like a charm. email me at sonny1955@earthlink and I'll snap off some photos for you.
The hunter 23 is a great sailing boat. It points well and blows away all the comparable sized boats on the lake. Makes me look like a better sailer than I am! Raising the mast is not as hard as people make it out to be. I made a gin pole with a 2x4 and use the main sheet to haul up mast. It's crude but works like a charm. email me at sonny1955@earthlink and I'll snap off some photos for you.
Raising Mast On My H23
This was a problem for me my first year. Last summer I was shown how to raise my mast by first securing main sheet to fitting ( not the one used for the forestay) in the anchor locker. You want to be able to pull up from the anchor locker on the main sheet when raising the mast so watch the direction of the cleat. I extended the main sheet as far as it would go leaving a length long enough to pull in. About 18" minimum. I secure the other end of the mainsheet to the Jib Halyard. With mast connected to base plate and lying in extended position of the crutch, take up the slack on the jib halyard and secure. Check shrouds for position of turnbuckles that when mast is raised that there will be nothing restricting the full extension of the shrouds. With one person pulling on the mainsheet, the other person guides the mast up. Watching that all shrouds are clear. Very little effort is required. I don't know if I have explained this well and you will have to pardon some of my terminology. I'll get with it some day. lol If you have any questions you can reach me at searay0301@aol.com And yes! my wife and I had a great summer (first one ) on our boat. She even has taken out a group of non sailors by herself when I wasn't around. One heck of a sailor she is. Best to you in the coming season.
This was a problem for me my first year. Last summer I was shown how to raise my mast by first securing main sheet to fitting ( not the one used for the forestay) in the anchor locker. You want to be able to pull up from the anchor locker on the main sheet when raising the mast so watch the direction of the cleat. I extended the main sheet as far as it would go leaving a length long enough to pull in. About 18" minimum. I secure the other end of the mainsheet to the Jib Halyard. With mast connected to base plate and lying in extended position of the crutch, take up the slack on the jib halyard and secure. Check shrouds for position of turnbuckles that when mast is raised that there will be nothing restricting the full extension of the shrouds. With one person pulling on the mainsheet, the other person guides the mast up. Watching that all shrouds are clear. Very little effort is required. I don't know if I have explained this well and you will have to pardon some of my terminology. I'll get with it some day. lol If you have any questions you can reach me at searay0301@aol.com And yes! my wife and I had a great summer (first one ) on our boat. She even has taken out a group of non sailors by herself when I wasn't around. One heck of a sailor she is. Best to you in the coming season.
Jack: The H23 is a very nimble sailboat with great ultimate stability. You will run out of rudder in 25-30 knots and be unable to point closer than 60 degrees into the wind. The boat depowers quickly but smoothly at that wind speed range if overpowered with ports in the water when the mainsheet is let out. The boat seems happiest at 10-15 knots on jib and main when it is a joy at all points of sail. I am looking forward to trying a genaker next season for windspeeds less than 10 knots. - Kevin.
"catty wumpus"
I laughed hystericly for five solid minutes at the sight of the phrase "catty wumpus". What in the name of God could the person who said that the first time have been thinking? It's a shame. They just ain't makin phrases like that any more. The phrase came from Joel in his reply to this post entitled, "First Years Impression. Dan
I laughed hystericly for five solid minutes at the sight of the phrase "catty wumpus". What in the name of God could the person who said that the first time have been thinking? It's a shame. They just ain't makin phrases like that any more. The phrase came from Joel in his reply to this post entitled, "First Years Impression. Dan
Catty wumpus? catawampus
I grew up with catawampus meaning knocked askew. Curious from Dan's mirth at the term, a Google search finds the following: "cater-corner/cater-cornered/catawampus/cattywampus – The correct spelling of this term is either ‘cater-corner’ or ‘cater-cornered,’ though two variant forms, kitty-corner and katty-corner, are often heard in our various regional dialects. Actually the word ‘cater’ comes from the French ‘quatre’ and thus the term originally meant ‘four-cornered.’ But by a process known to language students as ‘folk etymology,’ the ordinary users of the term thought they detected an analogy to the ordinary domestic feline. Hence 'cater' soon became ‘catty’ and eventually ‘kitty.’ The variations on this phrase are too many to list, but our favorite has long been ‘catawampus’ or ‘cattywampus,’ a dialect term heard throughout the South, from the Carolinas to Texas. You’ll often hear the expression: ‘He walked cattywampus across the street,’ and down in Tennessee a college president of mathematics was once heard to say: ‘You might call a rhombus a catawampus square.’ Still another sense of ‘catawampus’ and ‘catty wampus’ was common in some sections of the antebellum South. It meant goblin, sprite or, sometimes, fearsome beast. Slaveowners were known to warn slaves they thought might be planning to run away that ‘catawampus cats’ were lurking in wait for them. They sometimes also made fearsome noises in the night, which they claimed were the bloodthirsty roars of the catawampus cats.’" (The "Morris Dictionary of Word and Phrase Origins" by William and Mary Morris, HarperCollins, New York, 1977, 1988.)
I grew up with catawampus meaning knocked askew. Curious from Dan's mirth at the term, a Google search finds the following: "cater-corner/cater-cornered/catawampus/cattywampus – The correct spelling of this term is either ‘cater-corner’ or ‘cater-cornered,’ though two variant forms, kitty-corner and katty-corner, are often heard in our various regional dialects. Actually the word ‘cater’ comes from the French ‘quatre’ and thus the term originally meant ‘four-cornered.’ But by a process known to language students as ‘folk etymology,’ the ordinary users of the term thought they detected an analogy to the ordinary domestic feline. Hence 'cater' soon became ‘catty’ and eventually ‘kitty.’ The variations on this phrase are too many to list, but our favorite has long been ‘catawampus’ or ‘cattywampus,’ a dialect term heard throughout the South, from the Carolinas to Texas. You’ll often hear the expression: ‘He walked cattywampus across the street,’ and down in Tennessee a college president of mathematics was once heard to say: ‘You might call a rhombus a catawampus square.’ Still another sense of ‘catawampus’ and ‘catty wampus’ was common in some sections of the antebellum South. It meant goblin, sprite or, sometimes, fearsome beast. Slaveowners were known to warn slaves they thought might be planning to run away that ‘catawampus cats’ were lurking in wait for them. They sometimes also made fearsome noises in the night, which they claimed were the bloodthirsty roars of the catawampus cats.’" (The "Morris Dictionary of Word and Phrase Origins" by William and Mary Morris, HarperCollins, New York, 1977, 1988.)
- Status