I'm looking for recommendations on how to paint the keel on my 89' Hunter 23. Every year I sand it to remove the rust and apply bottom paint, but the rust comes back every year. Any ideas on primer coats? Ted S.
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There have been many good posts on this subject, some within the last month or so. Sounds like you're getting ready to put in for the season. Good luck and enjoy! Peter S/V Raven
There have been many good posts on this subject, some within the last month or so. Sounds like you're getting ready to put in for the season. Good luck and enjoy! Peter S/V Raven
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Jon Bastien
I'm calling Interlux this week
Hi Ted, I'm also in the process of painting the bottom of my H23, and had the same question. I'm planning on using Interlux's Micron CSC Extra for the bottom paint, but haven't seen the definitive answer on how to make it stick to that cast iron keel. I'm planning on calling Interlux today or tomorrow, to see what they recommend... I'll post the response I get from them as soon as I can. For those of you who've been keeping tabs, Yes, I switched bottom paints- I'm told VC-17 isn't very effective down here in the VERY 'fertile' waters of the FL Keys. The CSC Micron has twice the biocide, and will stand up better to extended periods in the water (more than a week); It will also stand up to trailering without losing effectiveness. I also had to switch colors- Couldn't convince the First Mate that red would look OK, so we're going with the green instead (anything but blue!). Scraping and sanding this week, hope to paint this weekend. I'll post the photos! --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' Key West, FL
Hi Ted, I'm also in the process of painting the bottom of my H23, and had the same question. I'm planning on using Interlux's Micron CSC Extra for the bottom paint, but haven't seen the definitive answer on how to make it stick to that cast iron keel. I'm planning on calling Interlux today or tomorrow, to see what they recommend... I'll post the response I get from them as soon as I can. For those of you who've been keeping tabs, Yes, I switched bottom paints- I'm told VC-17 isn't very effective down here in the VERY 'fertile' waters of the FL Keys. The CSC Micron has twice the biocide, and will stand up better to extended periods in the water (more than a week); It will also stand up to trailering without losing effectiveness. I also had to switch colors- Couldn't convince the First Mate that red would look OK, so we're going with the green instead (anything but blue!). Scraping and sanding this week, hope to paint this weekend. I'll post the photos! --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' Key West, FL
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Chris
Bottom paint is not rust resistant!
Hey guys, first of, bottom paint is not a rust resistant coating. What I would want to do, is to remove ALL traces of rust and put a good primer, then seal it with an epoxy type paint. Before doing that, I would install two zinc anodes, one on each side (make sure there is no paint or anything else between the zinc and the keel. I'm not an expert, but it seems to me that this should do the trick. Remember that bottom paint mostly protects the boat from stuff that grows on the bottom, not from water or rust... Chris
Hey guys, first of, bottom paint is not a rust resistant coating. What I would want to do, is to remove ALL traces of rust and put a good primer, then seal it with an epoxy type paint. Before doing that, I would install two zinc anodes, one on each side (make sure there is no paint or anything else between the zinc and the keel. I'm not an expert, but it seems to me that this should do the trick. Remember that bottom paint mostly protects the boat from stuff that grows on the bottom, not from water or rust... Chris
Message to Jon B: Try again for the red!
I never used to think that red bottom paint looked cool, but the coppery red was the only color available the day I went to buy VC-17, so I had no choice. Since then, I have to confess that the color has grown on me, and I will probably repaint in red. Like you, I don't think VC-17 has enough "grunt" to resist all the nasties waiting to latch on to my hull down here in Florida. It looks like Micron CSC next time, especially since I am planning to hit the salt water this summer. Peter S/V Raven
I never used to think that red bottom paint looked cool, but the coppery red was the only color available the day I went to buy VC-17, so I had no choice. Since then, I have to confess that the color has grown on me, and I will probably repaint in red. Like you, I don't think VC-17 has enough "grunt" to resist all the nasties waiting to latch on to my hull down here in Florida. It looks like Micron CSC next time, especially since I am planning to hit the salt water this summer. Peter S/V Raven
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Darrel Richards
Rusty Keel
Last year when I did the bottom of my 88 h23 the keel had rusted through the the bottom paint. The fellas at the Lauderdale marine center recommended cleaning the keel by pressure cleaning, then sanding with 300 Grit sand paper and remove the rust surface. Then use a product called OSPHO. It is a chemical that you apply to the steel with a paint brush, its very watery. Allow to dry and apply a second coat. Then use a good bottom steel primer coat and finish with 2-3 coats of good bottom anti-fouling paint. Seems to work great. The keel is well sealed and after a little over one year in the tropical waters of South Florida, NO RUST, NO HARD GROWTH, only slime.
Last year when I did the bottom of my 88 h23 the keel had rusted through the the bottom paint. The fellas at the Lauderdale marine center recommended cleaning the keel by pressure cleaning, then sanding with 300 Grit sand paper and remove the rust surface. Then use a product called OSPHO. It is a chemical that you apply to the steel with a paint brush, its very watery. Allow to dry and apply a second coat. Then use a good bottom steel primer coat and finish with 2-3 coats of good bottom anti-fouling paint. Seems to work great. The keel is well sealed and after a little over one year in the tropical waters of South Florida, NO RUST, NO HARD GROWTH, only slime.
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Darrel Richards
OSPHO
Just another word about OSPHO. This chemical acts to stop the rusting process. It neutrilizes the steel and rust. Once the steel is coated with OSPHO its like a hard shell finish and you can paint/primer right over it. OSPHO is available at West Marine. Cost about $27. a gallon. Takes about 1/2 Gal for 2 coats on the h23 wing keel.
Just another word about OSPHO. This chemical acts to stop the rusting process. It neutrilizes the steel and rust. Once the steel is coated with OSPHO its like a hard shell finish and you can paint/primer right over it. OSPHO is available at West Marine. Cost about $27. a gallon. Takes about 1/2 Gal for 2 coats on the h23 wing keel.
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Ted Sonntag
One more question
Thanks to everyone for the advice and research. I have one additional question. Since there is only ~ 1" clearance between the wings and the trailer deck, does anybody have advice on how to sand that area? Thanks agian to evryone who gave me help on this. Ted S
Thanks to everyone for the advice and research. I have one additional question. Since there is only ~ 1" clearance between the wings and the trailer deck, does anybody have advice on how to sand that area? Thanks agian to evryone who gave me help on this. Ted S
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Jon Bastien
Sanding under wings
I have the same dilemma about my keel. I'm in the middle of the bottom painting process (still stripping off old paint at this time), and I'm planning on having my boat put on stands in a boatyard here to apply the paint(there went the budget!). If possible, I'm going to have the keel suspended rather than resting on supports- I have a rather large pit in the bottom of my keel that I can't get to any other way. As long as the keel is hanging there, I may as well fair and paint it... -- My initial thought for solving this problem would be to do it one side at a time- Back the trailer down the ramp just enough to float the boat, and when pulling it back out, CAREFULLY push the keel over to one side of the bunk board. This will cause the wing on the keel to hang over the edge of the keel bunk, and the boat to lean a little while on the trailer. Sand, fair, paint; back down the ramp again, push to the other side; sand, fair, paint. This method would also give you access to the parts of the hull where the hull rests on the upper trailer bunk boards. This is only an idea; I have not actually seen this in practice. Comments? --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind'
I have the same dilemma about my keel. I'm in the middle of the bottom painting process (still stripping off old paint at this time), and I'm planning on having my boat put on stands in a boatyard here to apply the paint(there went the budget!). If possible, I'm going to have the keel suspended rather than resting on supports- I have a rather large pit in the bottom of my keel that I can't get to any other way. As long as the keel is hanging there, I may as well fair and paint it... -- My initial thought for solving this problem would be to do it one side at a time- Back the trailer down the ramp just enough to float the boat, and when pulling it back out, CAREFULLY push the keel over to one side of the bunk board. This will cause the wing on the keel to hang over the edge of the keel bunk, and the boat to lean a little while on the trailer. Sand, fair, paint; back down the ramp again, push to the other side; sand, fair, paint. This method would also give you access to the parts of the hull where the hull rests on the upper trailer bunk boards. This is only an idea; I have not actually seen this in practice. Comments? --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind'
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Ron
Keel Sanding / Painting
There i sonly one safe way to sand and paint the bottom of the keel. Call a couple of local maria's explain you only have to lift the boat a foot or two off the trailer and it should only take 15 to 20 minutes, you should have the rest of the keel already painted. Most marina have a fork lift with long extensions to move boats around. They lift it up right off the trailer, (make sure your bow hook is undone) you climb under sand paint the only place the boat could fall is back onto the trailer. I usually lay two 1/8 by 1" strip of wood (one in front and one in back) wrapped in wax paper across the bunk where the bottom of the keel rest. It allows air to dry the paint on the bottom and keeps the keel from sticking. It usually cost me $25 - money well spent. Its safe and as long as the marina knows your not going to tie up his fork lift you could do it right in the driveway in and out Good luck
There i sonly one safe way to sand and paint the bottom of the keel. Call a couple of local maria's explain you only have to lift the boat a foot or two off the trailer and it should only take 15 to 20 minutes, you should have the rest of the keel already painted. Most marina have a fork lift with long extensions to move boats around. They lift it up right off the trailer, (make sure your bow hook is undone) you climb under sand paint the only place the boat could fall is back onto the trailer. I usually lay two 1/8 by 1" strip of wood (one in front and one in back) wrapped in wax paper across the bunk where the bottom of the keel rest. It allows air to dry the paint on the bottom and keeps the keel from sticking. It usually cost me $25 - money well spent. Its safe and as long as the marina knows your not going to tie up his fork lift you could do it right in the driveway in and out Good luck
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