H23 Concerns

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Dan C

Hi, I recently purchased a 1986 H23. Everything is stock. The sails are original, the trailer is the Ken Manufacturing single axle, and it's got the Nissan 5 hp. I love the boat...sails great but I've noticed a few things. Being a novice sailor, this seems like the place to ask... 1) Water...quite a bit of it around the keel bolts and bilge. I pump it out, but after two days on the water, its back. 2) Trailer...looks scary and I wouldn't want to take it long distance, so I'm VERY curious to talk to someone who's had either the orginal trailer beefed up or bitten the bullet and bought a new one. 3)General maintenance...This boat sits on the trailer in the yard, but I've noticed the hull is oxidizing, the keel is rusty and I'm worried about the fact I don't have a cover. Any suggestions on keeping her free from harm would be GREATLY appreciated. Anything else about keeping this boat up would be wonderful. I've only skimmed the archives but I'm eager to spend time reading through them. Thanks a million! Dan danc@frontier.net
 
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keith smoot

KEEP THAT BOAT

I have had an H-23 for over four years. Hang onto the best boat Hunter ever built! I also get water inside the cabin. If the boat is parked level, water will run inside around the sliding plexiglass cover. I am currently experimenting with adhesive weatherstripping on the underside of the cover. Try it yourself. Water will enter the lazarette through the laz. hatch if the boat is parked with the port side low. This water may find it's way into the cabin. Also check the drain pipe in the anchor locker for leaks, I had to tighten the clamps. The trailer is fine. All it needs is load range D tires for the single axle. I have trailered over seven hours at a time with no problems. Add Bearing Buddies. Does the trailer bounce your tow vehicle? If it does you may need to move the boat forward on the trailer. I moved mine 9 3/4 inches and it made a world of difference. That move put the correct amount of weight on the tounge. I also mounted the outboard and rudder on the crosspiece of the trailer under the bow of the boat. DO NOT TRAILER THE OUTBOARD ON THE MOTOR MOUNT. You may hear the outboard hit the highway behind you. Also, check the plywood transom inside the lazarette for stress damage from the outboard. Also, check to see if your mast tabernacle is centered over the compression post, mine isn't but that can be fixed. Any other questions E-mail me at snark11@aol.com Keith and Wanda S/V Gwaihir, a magnificent H-23
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
This is where the fun starts

The H23 is one of the best boats Hunter ever made, but it ain't perfect. I don't think any factory can make the perfect boat...that's the owner's job. To polish your H23 into the true gem that it is, you will have to learn its strengths as well as its flaws. This forum is full of people who were once where you are now and more importantly are more than willing to help you by sharing their expertise and experience. I would suggest that you start by going through the archives thoroughly and read everything you can about the H23. I would also recommend that you get an owners manual for the boat, if you don't already have one. If you are a new sailor, I would also suggest that you get some good reference books so you can brush up on the basics, especially terminology. If you need more info, you can e-mail me at oneprof@magicnet.net. Good luck. Peter S/V Raven
 
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Hal Pyke

water in your boat......

Dan,, I have an '86 23 and was told by the previous owner that he was getting about a cup every week around the keel bolts. When I brought it home I noticed that it occurred even when the boat was parked on the trailer in my driveway. After many investigations I noticed that water was entering from around the top of the rub rail whenever it rained. I sealed it with silicone and there has been not one drop of water since. Be sure not to seal the underside of the rail.
 
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Mike Epp

rail undersides open?

I've read before not to seal the underside of the rub rail. Could someone tell me the reasoning behind this? Presumably you're talking about the lower edge of the aluminum extrusion.
 
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MIke B

h23 looking like new,

Several years ago when we got our 23 it was not shiny, my best luck has come with using meguiars, there is a 3 step process, 1 is heavy duty oxidation remover, this is a must, the folow with meguiars polish and finallly wax, this is an annual task done when bottom painting with , for me vc 17 , good luck great boat ditto on all prev posts re water, ditto on Mike Epps post , why not caulk? also to MIke and other Indian Lake sailors, there is a place next to Mc Donalds , guy has hoist said he would take boat out put on trailer with hoist for twenty dollars, MIke
 
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Mike Epp

to Mike B

Mike, I've seen that hoist but really haven't had problems loading on or off the trailer at the ramps. Even in last year's low water. By the way, what's your email addy? Couldn't find you in the owner's directory.
 
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Allen Glasson

Another 23 Owner

Dan, I purchased a 87 - 23' Hunter this spring. This is our 3rd sailboat.I love the boat. It did take some work to bring it back to life. The previous owner had painted the alum trailer, a faded blue. I power washed the trailer and painted with white gloss rustoleum paint, put new tires, rims, bearings, buddy bearings, brakes, master cylinder, replaced the wood and carper and a new spare tire. I did have trailer wip and bounce at speeds over 55mph. I built a box on the tounge to keep my rudder, motor, jack and misc. in. The extra weight on the toungue made all the difference in the world. They recommend 300-350" tounge weight. Check your hitch rating!!! Now for the boat: The bottom was orig. red 13 year old, faded anti-foul paint. I power washed, sanded with 80 grit sand paper, cleaned dust off, taped the line, and painted, rolled on, with light blue anti foul paint. I also painted the rudder to match. Looks great, cleans up easily. Hold onto your shorts when you go to buy the paint - $47.00 a quart. I used 2 quarts with some left over for touch up. If it lasts 1/2 as long as the orig. paint I'll be happy. The Kee l - Since we don't keep our boat in the water, I didn't think the suggested multi step process was worth the expense or effort. I removed all the orig. finish, calked where the keel enters the boat with the suggested 5200 marine calking (Tighten the keel bolts inside the boat first) sanded and wire brushed, and painted with 2 coats of black gloss rustoleum. So far no problems, no rust or leaks and looks great. Fiberglass hull - Used fiberglass rubbing compound to remove all the oxidation. Then put on two coats of Starbrite Premium Marine Polish WITH TEFLON. This restored the shine. It seems the teflon adds the protection, but takes several coats. I power washed the deck non skid surface prior to the above process. This was the best and fastest way I could find to remove all the dirt. The power washer also made the teak look like new. Since the deck gets all the direct sunlight, it's taking several coats of the wax to restore the shine, but it's comming. When not in use, I cover with a tarp. This keeps the sun off and the birds who like to perch on the horiz. mask. I have ordered new stripes from Hunter for the cabin as ours have fadded and cracked. The Cabin - I put carpet on the floor, installed a AM,FM,CD player and speakers. Added a 2nd battery, fixed the sink faucet, added a Coleman gas grill that also has a burner. I made a bracket for the grill that attaches to the lifeline stansion, Cook a whole meal on one unit. I am in the process of making a top for the cockpit. I installed a power TV-FM antenna on top of the mask. The list goes on and on but I think I hit the big items. It's been a labor of love but worth every min. The boat looks great and sails great. We have spent several 3 & 4 day week ends on the boat. We also enjoy going to different lakes. This boat is big enough to spend several days on and not to big to haul around. Check the old articals for information on my new back Y bracket that supports the mask during transit, and the artical on the electronics box I made. As soon as I get a camera, I'll put some pictures in the photo forum. If you have any questions, feel free to E-Mail me @ Glasson_Allen_L@lilly.com Hope you enjoy your boat as much as we are - Happy sailing. Allen
 
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Dave Condon

trailer

Dan, there are alot of good postings on the boat;therfore, I will only talk about the trailer. You have a KWS trailer and that company is no longer in buisness as the owner has passed away. There are several things to look for. Have the bearings been repalced and if not, so so. Check the fenders to see if they are secure and if not, fix them as there were some that came off. Check the bunk boards and the platform the centerboard rests on to see if they need replacing. Crazy Dave
 
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Dan C

This is great!

I just wanted to say thanks! The response I've gotten has been excellent, as well as all the terrific advice. Finding HOW has been a Godsend! Dan danc@frontier.net
 
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M

One More !

The single biggest improvement I've made (86 H23) was on the rudder. B4 I did this I had 30lbs of weather helm in 20knots... If you ever have your rudder apart, notice where the eye is that the rope is tied to. Notice the angle (with rudder apart, lay parts on top of each other as they were together) that eye makes with the roller and cleat up top - it's almost a straight line !!! BAD. The rope has virtually no mechanical advantage to keep the rudder UNDER the boat. It will tend to swing out a little. LOTS of weather helm. Put a bungee around the rudder, just above the lower pin, down to the rudder part which is angled. This will pull the rudder right up against the alum housing. Now I have 5-10 lbs of helm in any wind. Design flaw - all 23's ? Don't know what years.
 
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Mike Epp

bungee where?

could you explain again where this bungee is attached?
 
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M

Bungee Location

Take the rudder off the 2 pins, lay it on a cockpit seat. Straighten the rudder so it is in the 'sailing' (in) position. Put bungee around alum rudder housing above top of lower pin and a little below the fiber rudder where it goes down at a sharp angle. So what you're doing is putting the bungee as low as possible around the fiber rudder, but above that lower pin. The idea is to pull the rudder up flush against the alum housing. In order to do that of course, the bungee must be as far as possible from the pivot bolt. The bingee will just be above the waterline when you put the whole thing back in water. You don't need the rope anymore but I leave mine on but not tight. If I ground, the bungee springs.
 
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Jon Bastien

I think M's last post...

Finally answered the question many of us had- "Does the Bungee spring off if the rudder hits something?" Knowing now that it will, I may try this little trick next time '2 Sheets' is in the water... M, Any recommendations for length/thickness/attachment methods for the bungee cord? --Jon Bastien H23 '2 Sheets to the Wind' H25 'Adagio'
 
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