H23.5 Water Ballast Inlet Gasket????

[Beau]

Has anyone replaced the gasket that goes on the inlet cover under boat. My 23.5 stays in the water year around. She currently is on stands at the boatyard for her bottom job. How hard is it to replace? I am guessing you unscrew the plunger wingnut inside the boat and the whole assembly drops out of the bottom. I am worried that there will be internal parts that come loose when I drop the plunger. I have until Friday to get all this done. Where do you get the gasket (quickly)? She is only out of the water once a year so I have to act now!

 

[Ray]

Contact Hunter

Beau, Since no one else has replyed I will hang out my neck and pass on what my owners manual says. Our boat is a 1995 H26 and our owners manual covers the same year for the H19, H23.5 and the H26, all being water ballast boats. In section 3, Sails and Rigging, #4 Ballast Tank Valve Detail, it has a diagram of the water ballast valve that I assume fits all 3 of these boats as it is the only diagram in the book. It is listed as "Ballast Tank Valve H19-A-2616". Starting from the bottom of the valve (bottom of the boat water ballast tank) you have the: 1. Bottom valve plate, 2. Bonded rubber gasket, 3. 1/2 inch rod threaded at the top that goes from the bottom of the tank to the top of the tank. Above the ballast tank in the cabin you have: 1. rubber gasket, 2. ss washer, 3. 1/2 inch wing nut, 4. and on top of the rod is a hole for a cotter pin.There is nothing inside of the tank to fall out or be dislocated in the process of changing the gasket.You should be able to remove the valve assembly and cut/scrape the old gasket off. Most auto parts stores or hardware stores will have neopreme (bad spelling) or rubber sheet pieces that you can cut to size and super glue to the lower plate to make a new gasket. Use the same thickness as the old gasket. Make sure the lower plate is clean enough to eat off (shine like a mirror) before glueing the new gasket in place. Good Luck Ray

 

[Ray]

Add on to first post.

Beau, Don't allow any glue on top of the gasket that comes in contact with the ballast tank, and allow plenty of drying time for the glue before reinstalling the ballast plate. Ray

 

[Dale Wile]

Cement...

I think Ray's procedures are on the mark. However, I would suggest that you use a good quality contact cement, instead of superglue. Coat both the metal plate and the rubber or neopreme gasket, let dry until it the cement is slightly tacky but doesn't lift when you touch it with your finger, then carefully place the gasket on the plate and press firmly. Make sure your alignment is right, as they will grab and hold when the two surfaces come in contact with each other.There is an alignment pin protruding upward from the metal plate. Make sure it inserts into the hole in the hull which is provided for it. This keeps the plate from turning when you tighten or loosen the wing nut at the top of the shaft.