Think this will work? I want to remove the centerboard from my H22 at the end of the season. If I remove the bolts while the boat is on the trailer, ensure that the 'board doesn't hang up on the trailer as it is floated off, can my friend (a diver) drop the 'board out? Then I will just load the boat as usual and re-glas the centerboard this winter.
H22 centerboard removal
- Thread starter LDM
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You will need to lift the boat up of the trailer then remove the four bolts holding the brackets ( they go through the the hull and you can find them under the floor boards.)
There are some good pictures and info at this link.
Swing Keel / Centerboard removal & maintenance: Hunter 22
Good luck,
Scott
There are some good pictures and info at this link.
Swing Keel / Centerboard removal & maintenance: Hunter 22
Good luck,
Scott
Thanks for the reply. My trailer is custom made and there is plenty of room to remove the bolts. I was thinking of tying a line completely around the hull to hold the c'board in place, removing the bolts, then backing the trailer in the water, float the boat off into 6-7' of water, drop the line off while my diving friend retrieves the centerboard. Do you think too much water will come in through the holes for this short period of time?
why would you need to do this? the centerboard only weighs a hundred pounds or so. I tied a line all around, and whith the boat on blocks, and blocks under the centerboard, lowered it down step by step. it is hard to get the retainers out because they are seriously caulked in. i don't know how you would do that under water.
anyway, i am ready to put mine back. can anyone tell me what kind of caulk to use on the retaining plates. the stuff in the store does not seem as tough and rubbery as the factory stuff.
also, if anyone wants to replace the block that leads the wire rope from the centerboard into the centerboard trunk, rig-rite.com makes an exit block called NF 10310, special order it with "no curve" on the face plates and it fits perfectly where the NF-518 OEM exit block is.
anyway, i am ready to put mine back. can anyone tell me what kind of caulk to use on the retaining plates. the stuff in the store does not seem as tough and rubbery as the factory stuff.
also, if anyone wants to replace the block that leads the wire rope from the centerboard into the centerboard trunk, rig-rite.com makes an exit block called NF 10310, special order it with "no curve" on the face plates and it fits perfectly where the NF-518 OEM exit block is.
by the way, i also used 1.5" nylon 6/12 rod from mcmaster-carr.com to re-make the nylon bushing. i had a machine shop cut 2 1/8 inch length and drill a 1/2 hole through center.
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