H216 Chainplates
- Thread starter ErnieH
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Chainplate Tightening
I would ensure they are tightened after each season. My 216 is a used 2004. The port chain plate was leaking so badly that there was mold growing all over the headliner. I removed and rebedded them this year and removed all the mold. Something to note that I let them dry out for a few days before I put them back on. Initially when I rebedded and tightened them the 1st time, I had water "squeeze" out when I rebolted them down - scary, eh? Anyway, I removed all the old caulk, let them dry out and everything was good. Seems like to me after 3 years of the previous owners not doing any maintenance or checks, pretty much left the chain plate super loose, allowing water to get in and rot 'em out. Oh and 1 other thing - there is a form fitting gasket that really needs to be replaced - I put my old ones back on with liberal amts of "lifecaulk" to form a good gasket. Had I pre-planned, I would've gotten new gaskets b/c they have lost their shape and probably aren't very effective anymore...
I would ensure they are tightened after each season. My 216 is a used 2004. The port chain plate was leaking so badly that there was mold growing all over the headliner. I removed and rebedded them this year and removed all the mold. Something to note that I let them dry out for a few days before I put them back on. Initially when I rebedded and tightened them the 1st time, I had water "squeeze" out when I rebolted them down - scary, eh? Anyway, I removed all the old caulk, let them dry out and everything was good. Seems like to me after 3 years of the previous owners not doing any maintenance or checks, pretty much left the chain plate super loose, allowing water to get in and rot 'em out. Oh and 1 other thing - there is a form fitting gasket that really needs to be replaced - I put my old ones back on with liberal amts of "lifecaulk" to form a good gasket. Had I pre-planned, I would've gotten new gaskets b/c they have lost their shape and probably aren't very effective anymore...
Form fitting gasket
Paul, I'm not familiar with the form fitting gasket you mentioned. Where is it located. I have a 2003 H216 which might make it a little different. /Ernie
Paul, I'm not familiar with the form fitting gasket you mentioned. Where is it located. I have a 2003 H216 which might make it a little different. /Ernie
Gasket
When I removed the chain plates and cleaned all the old caulk - there was a gasket immediately under the chain plate itself. Maybe it is something new they added after your year? Quite honestly, not sure it really adds much of anything if you properly bed them using the lifecaulk stuff - which really ends up acting like a gasket anyway...
When I removed the chain plates and cleaned all the old caulk - there was a gasket immediately under the chain plate itself. Maybe it is something new they added after your year? Quite honestly, not sure it really adds much of anything if you properly bed them using the lifecaulk stuff - which really ends up acting like a gasket anyway...
H216 Chainplate Cautions
My 2003 H216 chainplates leaked when I got the boat. I had severe dealer problems so I was going to replace the gaskets myself. I was cautioned by Hunter that the chainplate nuts (inside the cuddy) had a tendency to freeze and they recommended I simply caulk the topside of the chainplates to seal out the moisture...which I did. I think the original chainplate installaller overtightened the chainplates and almost squeezed out the gasket. If it were me and I was going to remove and re-bed the chainplates, I would loosen the nuts slowly so there was not a heat buildup. Apparently Hunter actually seized the nuts when removing them...which would be quite frustrating! Oh...my chainplates are still tight and I have never tightened them.
My 2003 H216 chainplates leaked when I got the boat. I had severe dealer problems so I was going to replace the gaskets myself. I was cautioned by Hunter that the chainplate nuts (inside the cuddy) had a tendency to freeze and they recommended I simply caulk the topside of the chainplates to seal out the moisture...which I did. I think the original chainplate installaller overtightened the chainplates and almost squeezed out the gasket. If it were me and I was going to remove and re-bed the chainplates, I would loosen the nuts slowly so there was not a heat buildup. Apparently Hunter actually seized the nuts when removing them...which would be quite frustrating! Oh...my chainplates are still tight and I have never tightened them.
How much caulk
Paul, When I first spoke with Lind at Hunter about the loose chainplates he also cautioned me about the potential for the nuts to seize. When you caulked the top of the chainpaltes, how much caulk di you use? /Ernie
Paul, When I first spoke with Lind at Hunter about the loose chainplates he also cautioned me about the potential for the nuts to seize. When you caulked the top of the chainpaltes, how much caulk di you use? /Ernie
Not a bunch of caulk
Ernie - I actually used very little caulk. I used masking tape to mask around all areas I wanted to caulk. This is pretty tedious. I then used a good "forever" clear silicon caulk and spread it with my fingers. Remove masking tape and, viola, very little caulk (you can't see it unless you know what you are looking for) but a good seal. I caulked around the gasket and the M-bold nuts (top and bottom). I have used the masking tape/caulk for a lot of household things also and it does a beautiful job. Glad I don't pay myself by the hour.
Ernie - I actually used very little caulk. I used masking tape to mask around all areas I wanted to caulk. This is pretty tedious. I then used a good "forever" clear silicon caulk and spread it with my fingers. Remove masking tape and, viola, very little caulk (you can't see it unless you know what you are looking for) but a good seal. I caulked around the gasket and the M-bold nuts (top and bottom). I have used the masking tape/caulk for a lot of household things also and it does a beautiful job. Glad I don't pay myself by the hour.
Wow --- I think the reason is...
Hi Brian, I think the concern related to the seizing of the stainless steel bolt threads and nut is the natural tendency of stainless steel bolts/nuts to gall when tightened with power equipment such as an air wrench, electric drill/socket, etc. If you use a hand wrench and remove the nut slowly with a little lubricant on the threads I don't think you would have the problem. Lamar
Hi Brian, I think the concern related to the seizing of the stainless steel bolt threads and nut is the natural tendency of stainless steel bolts/nuts to gall when tightened with power equipment such as an air wrench, electric drill/socket, etc. If you use a hand wrench and remove the nut slowly with a little lubricant on the threads I don't think you would have the problem. Lamar
Wow --- I think the reason is... Maybe...
Lamar, I thought the same thing and asked Hunter. They said I was far better off not trying to remove, re-bed, and re-install the chainplates. Lind's comment was that I would be in a real world of hurt if I tried it. This, of course, presumes the chainplates are tight as mine were (and they have not loosened as yet). If they did loosen, based on what Lind said, I would lean toward simply tightening them and re-caulking. Lind even sent me new chainplates, M-bolds and gaskets...but advised me that he didn't really think I should install them. His comment was that if they do freeze up, they are almost impossible to fix. So, I choose to go on the manufacturer's recommendation than my unerring mechanical insight and ability ;-).
Lamar, I thought the same thing and asked Hunter. They said I was far better off not trying to remove, re-bed, and re-install the chainplates. Lind's comment was that I would be in a real world of hurt if I tried it. This, of course, presumes the chainplates are tight as mine were (and they have not loosened as yet). If they did loosen, based on what Lind said, I would lean toward simply tightening them and re-caulking. Lind even sent me new chainplates, M-bolds and gaskets...but advised me that he didn't really think I should install them. His comment was that if they do freeze up, they are almost impossible to fix. So, I choose to go on the manufacturer's recommendation than my unerring mechanical insight and ability ;-).
related question
on the 216, if your forestay chainplate also used as a backing plate for the bow U-bolt?? On my 23, it is, and it's loose...I'm not really sure what to do about it. I can tighten the U bolt from the outside, but running nuts up against the stem of the bow doesn't seem like a good idea, as the gelcoat is already wore off. Eww.
on the 216, if your forestay chainplate also used as a backing plate for the bow U-bolt?? On my 23, it is, and it's loose...I'm not really sure what to do about it. I can tighten the U bolt from the outside, but running nuts up against the stem of the bow doesn't seem like a good idea, as the gelcoat is already wore off. Eww.
Wow - I think the reason is maybe response
Hi Ranger Paul, I totally agree that removing the bolts and the chain plates is probably not a good idea, except as a very last resort and, as you note, you would be wise to have all new parts for the replacemnt. But to the subject of stainless steel galling --- I think you also touched on why this is the case --- I also talked to Lind and it is my understanding that when Hunter personnel installed some these bolts they used power equipment to put the bolts on and in doing so probably galled some of the bolts/nuts in the process (i.e. time is money idea). In my experience, after this happens with stainless steel bolts one might as well get rid of them. It's interesting to me how the chainplate leakage occured in my case --- the nuts were loose and actually appeared as if they had never been tightened adequately. After tightening the nuts up a bit, the leakage stopped. In a way, I suppose I was lucky. In my case, it was easy to see where the leakage was coming from because the leakage had a rust color. This resulted in the interaction of the water with the carbon steel content in the stainless steel bolts/nuts that had been used (i.e. lower grade of stainless steel hardware). Lamar
Hi Ranger Paul, I totally agree that removing the bolts and the chain plates is probably not a good idea, except as a very last resort and, as you note, you would be wise to have all new parts for the replacemnt. But to the subject of stainless steel galling --- I think you also touched on why this is the case --- I also talked to Lind and it is my understanding that when Hunter personnel installed some these bolts they used power equipment to put the bolts on and in doing so probably galled some of the bolts/nuts in the process (i.e. time is money idea). In my experience, after this happens with stainless steel bolts one might as well get rid of them. It's interesting to me how the chainplate leakage occured in my case --- the nuts were loose and actually appeared as if they had never been tightened adequately. After tightening the nuts up a bit, the leakage stopped. In a way, I suppose I was lucky. In my case, it was easy to see where the leakage was coming from because the leakage had a rust color. This resulted in the interaction of the water with the carbon steel content in the stainless steel bolts/nuts that had been used (i.e. lower grade of stainless steel hardware). Lamar
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